Crush sleeve eliminator?

[Pender1]

I'm almost done cleaning up my 10 bolt and getting ready to start putting it back together. I recently stumbled upon the crush sleeve eliminator kits and they sound to me like they take a lot of the hassle out of the setup (along with being better with the shock that can come from a manual tranny).

I guess my question is, what's the downside? Is there something that I'm not seeing that makes the crush sleeve better (aside from cost)?

 

[scottybaccus]

They take more effort to set up, because you have to assemble and torque the nut with the spacer and shims, check rotating torque and then break it down if any adjustment is required, change the shims and try again.
With a crush sleeve, you tighten the nut, check rotating torque, tighten some more, etc.

 

[Pender1]

They take more effort to set up, because you have to assemble and torque the nut with the spacer and shims, check rotating torque and then break it down if any adjustment is required, change the shims and try again.
With a crush sleeve, you tighten the nut, check rotating torque, tighten some more, etc.

To me that sounds like a better system. You can go past and back up if you need to without scrapping a part. And I don't have to deal with the ridiculous torque numbers that the crush sleeves require.

 

[flyboy1100]

I bought one for mine, i plan to measure old crush sleeve, add ,.002 because i read that somewhere, And test it. Fine tune from there.

Have you started the rest of your rear end yet? Mine is torn down and nearly cleaned, but there are a lot of small metal pieces in about the 1/16"range that are a pita to get out. After i get it clean time to start the backlash etc. Hoping to get most of it done saturday

 

[Pender1]

All I've got left to do is clean out the axle tubes real good. Seals went bad and let in some mud. I'm hoping to get started on my rebuild Sunday. I've got everything except for the eliminator kit right now. Might just have to go with the crush for now and swap it out later.

 

[scottybaccus]

If you are replacing a crush sleeve from a good install, with the spacer and shims, you can measure the crush sleeve you take out to determine the correct shim stack.

 

[flyboy1100]

If you are replacing a crush sleeve from a good install, with the spacer and shims, you can measure the crush sleeve you take out to determine the correct shim stack.

I don't think mine was a good install. Could have been factory too. No idea the bearings were unbranded

 

[flyboy1100]

Pita, but got it in. Ended with .031 worth of shims and am at 20in/lb preload, so a touch too much, but with the combo of shims i received .029-.030 wasn't possible. .028 was way too tight like 30in/lb

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

[scottybaccus]

Pita, but got it in. Ended with .031 worth of shims and am at 20in/lb preload, so a touch too much, but with the combo of shims i received .029-.030 wasn't possible. .028 was way too tight like 30in/lb

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

If the gears are already broken in, that's expected. It should be fine.

 

[flyboy1100]

If the gears are already broken in, that's expected. It should be fine.

new gears, spiders, and bearings

 

[scottybaccus]

In a new install, I would be less concerned out preload torque measured, and take steps to ensure the pinion bearing stack is fully compressed. That can be done by over-tightening the nut, while turning the pinion. It should fully seat the races in the case and bearings on the stem. Back off the nut, then set preload. If that comes up a little light, it's not such a worry, especially if the gears are wet.
What you don't want is to have a light preload, with bearings and races to seat further with a little use, resulting in a loose pinion bearing.

If you're confident the stack was fully compressed, no worries. Just come back and check it after a few miles.

 

[flyboy1100]

pretty sure it was, but that is good advice. will check it in a few miles

 

[Pender1]

Thanks for the info Scotty.

I've decided to wait until my kit gets here to do my setup. Should be here tomorrow. @flyboy1100, I assume the final torque number for the pinion nut is called out in the service manual? I haven't seen it anywhere yet, but I don't have my manual on hand right now to look.

 

[flyboy1100]

Normally i torque everything, but in the case of the pinion nut i just red loctite'd it and used the impact. Another reason for me to check it in a few miles.

I do think the torque spec is in the factory manual, i just can't remember it

 

[Pender1]

The engineer in my won't let me say "good enough" when it comes to torque numbers. Guess I'll have to go hunt down that number.