Column issues

[squarebaddy]

Hello, I have an 82 truck that was a 3spd column and I swapped in a 77 automatic tilt column into it since I’m putting in a th350. Here’s the deal: the column had different wiring harness plugs, the 2 on top, not the long skinny one, so I just swatched over the little plastic female column connector to the new column and connected the metal lock cylinder cable. Now the key rotates in reverse (start is all the way back and off is forward) aswell as the column shifter wont move hardly at all. Won’t shift out of park, and all linkage and trans is disconnected. Anybody know where I went wrong? Thanks

 

[CalSgt]

Hello, I have an 82 truck that was a 3spd column and I swapped in a 77 automatic tilt column into it since I’m putting in a th350. Here’s the deal: the column had different wiring harness plugs, the 2 on top, not the long skinny one, so I just swatched over the little plastic female column connector to the new column and connected the metal lock cylinder cable. Now the key rotates in reverse (start is all the way back and off is forward) aswell as the column shifter wont move hardly at all. Won’t shift out of park, and all linkage and trans is disconnected. Anybody know where I went wrong? Thanks

Tilt column are a lot of work….

Connections-
1) the long skinny one is your turn signal/horn harness
2) one bolts on the top (left) of the column that’s the ignition switch
3) should be one down near the firewall right on top, that’s the neutral safety switch/back up lamp switch

The key thing- I suppose it’s possible the ignition switch is mounted backwards somehow (or just incorrectly). Remove it and cycle it with a screwdriver or small tool, the positions are ACC/OFF/RUN/START. The start spot is spring loaded and will snap back to run when you release it.

Once you’ve figured that out turn the key while watching the ignition switch rod, pay attention to which way it will move the switch. Once that’s done set the switch in the off and the key in the same spot and re-mount the switch so it will get moved to the correct spot to start. It may take a slight adjustment after, the switch has slotted mounting screw holes.

The shifter issue is unknown…. May need to just disassemble the column, I’d check under the hood first and make sure the shifter tab isn’t bound up on something.

NSS/back up lamp switch

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Blue thing is ignition switch & long skinny one on bottom is turns and horn

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[CalSgt]

Also…

If the tilt portion is loose and can be wiggled around you might as well just plan on breaking the whole upper section down and fixing it. They can wreak havoc on the ign rod and rack when they get like that. It’s a major job to break it down this far so don’t plan on doing it in a few hours the first time.

These 4 torx headed bolts are famous for coming loose and they cause the tilt section to be sloppy when they do.

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[squarebaddy]

Tilt column are a lot of work….

Connections-
1) the long skinny one is your turn signal/horn harness
2) one bolts on the top (left) of the column that’s the ignition switch
3) should be one down near the firewall right on top, that’s the neutral safety switch/back up lamp switch

The key thing- I suppose it’s possible the ignition switch is mounted backwards somehow (or just incorrectly). Remove it and cycle it with a screwdriver or small tool, the positions are ACC/OFF/RUN/START. The start spot is spring loaded and will snap back to run when you release it.

Once you’ve figured that out turn the key while watching the ignition switch rod, pay attention to which way it will move the switch. Once that’s done set the switch in the off and the key in the same spot and re-mount the switch so it will get moved to the correct spot to start. It may take a slight adjustment after, the switch has slotted mounting screw holes.

The shifter issue is unknown…. May need to just disassemble the column, I’d check under the hood first and make sure the shifter tab isn’t bound up on something.

NSS/back up lamp switch

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Blue thing is ignition switch & long skinny one on bottom is turns and horn

You must be registered for see images attach

Something else, the key isn’t required to turn the ignition, the wheel also doesn’t lock

 

[Camar068]

A link to help you if you tear into the column:

https://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/d/d6/Jazzman_Steering_Rack_Rebuild.pdf

 

[CalSgt]

Something else, the key isn’t required to turn the ignition, the wheel also doesn’t lock

Those are minor issues,

The ignition cylinder could be worn or someone could have broken it at some point trying to start it without a key. Can you pull the key out of the cylinder regardless of what position it’s in?

The ignition cylinder is also directly connected to the steering wheel lock.

Here it how the wheel lock works, the black gear near the center is connected to the lock (key) cylinder (this is the opposite side of the column from the key side),

When you cycle the key it drives the rack (grey part on the right) and retracts the wheel lock (long grey rod top left).

The rack pulls on a rod which goes down the column to the ignition switch.

The small wire springs that connect the gear and rack can wear or break, if the do the wheel lock won’t work.

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[CalSgt]

A link to help you if you tear into the column:

https://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/d/d6/Jazzman_Steering_Rack_Rebuild.pdf

Wow… that’s a great write up, I wish I had that last year when I built my column

 

[Camar068]

Wow… that’s a great write up, I wish I had that last year when I built my column

yeh I d/l'd it and saved it in my auto folder. Never know when it will get lost on the internet.