Cold Air intake

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custodian

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This is my setup.

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Bextreme04

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I like the way you think Sir...:cool:

I didn't think to take pictures after smoothing everything with body filler. The big holes at the back ar covered by the cowl, a few holes are covered by the hinge, and all the small holes around the wheel tub are needed for mounting clips. I didn't bother with running a duct, I figured it would be more efficient using the fender itself as ducting.
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Yep, that's exactly what I was thinking. The factory GMT-400 fenders have a little bit of sheetmetal riveted inside the fender behind where the air box inlet is that directs most of the air charge in from the front and keeps water from the rear of the fender getting sucked in. I'll probably do the same thing since it's easy enough to do. My fender were cut and rusty, and I have some replacement ones that need to go on anyways, so I'll just modify the replacement ones and put them all on together.
 

CalSgt

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I'm taking you plugged most of the openings and it's drawing the air from the back side of the fender?
The rear holes may be able to pull a little air but it is a fairly tight fit to the cab there. Since it cant be seen and I wasn't worried it would be pulling hot air from there I didn't close them off.

It should be able to pull cool air from in front of the core support, the the forward most holes (in Red) are right next to the headlight buckets. I am debating opening them up just a bit more, It would be upsetting if the fender whistled trying to suck air through too small of an opening.

The square hole (in Blue) is right next to a large hole in the core support and under the battery tray.

The round hole (in Yellow) is needed to hook up the wiring for the side marker light, otherwise I would have capped it too.

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CalSgt

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Yep, that's exactly what I was thinking. The factory GMT-400 fenders have a little bit of sheetmetal riveted inside the fender behind where the air box inlet is that directs most of the air charge in from the front and keeps water from the rear of the fender getting sucked in. I'll probably do the same thing since it's easy enough to do. My fender were cut and rusty, and I have some replacement ones that need to go on anyways, so I'll just modify the replacement ones and put them all on together.
I cut one of those deflectors and the oval hole (the air box inlet snaps into) out of a GMT 400 fender planning on fitting them in but decided on just a 4" piece of exhaust tip that was in the scrap pile. I couldn't get my head wrapped around getting the oval hole fabed in. When I was test fitting I figured the air box inlet needs to snap into the fender a specific way then push down onto the lower mount with the barbed plastic piece. The geometry just wasn't working the way I wanted.
 

CalSgt

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This is my setup.

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I think that is awesome, you could easily have that pulling air from around the headlights. Where's your battery?

ETA: I love factory GM equipment, think of all the time they spent engineering that air box compared to what the aftermarket guys are doing.
 

custodian

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5.3 LS, 350
I think that is awesome, you could easily have that pulling air from around the headlights. Where's your battery?

ETA: I love factory GM equipment, think of all the time they spent engineering that air box compared to what the aftermarket guys are doing.
I moved the battery to the drivers side.
 

custodian

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5.3 LS, 350
I bought another air box bottom to modify to run a flexible hose to the radiator support. Ill be filling in the original intake holes with a hard plastic. Should I use a 4" or 3" hose?

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TotalyHucked

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I just grabbed a few T-bolt clamps and 4" silicone couplers that I thought would work from IntakeHoses.com, used some 4" exhaust tubing I had laying around and a Spectre filter from the parts store. It's laying on the other SloshTubz battery tray, I plan to build a box eventually using that tray as the base.
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