Clue me in on R&R Trurn Signal Switch on an 86 GMC, please!

[Gpaw44]

Once I get down to the switch part how does the switch arm come out? Is there a screw holding it or does it just pull out. My arm has the windshield washer switch, washer button as well and cruse botton on the end. The videos I have watched skip over this part. Where is a good source to get a new switch? Thanks, in advance

 

[Hilllbilly]

A screw be holding the metal arm onto the plastic

I guess that's what you be axing

You must be registered for see images

 

[Sad Sack]

Search for Standard Ignition TW20.

Amazon.com: A-Premium Turn Signal Switch Multi-Function Combination Switch Compatible with Chevrolet GMC Buick Cadillac Oldsmobile Dodge AMC Jeep 1969-2002, Replace # TW20 1995963 1995975 : Automotive

Buy A-Premium Turn Signal Switch Multi-Function Combination Switch Compatible with Chevrolet GMC Buick Cadillac Oldsmobile Dodge AMC Jeep 1969-2002, Replace # TW20 1995963 1995975: Turn Signal - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

If yours is a 10 pin.

 

[CalSgt]

I've never done one with the washer/wiper and cruise control on the turn signal stalk but I assume the rest of the process is the same. Should be one screw in the stalk, one screw in the center of the "Hazard" flasher switch, and two Phillips screws holding the switch to the column.

When you get your new switch, de-pin the plastic connector so you are just dealing with the wires. I like to take a picture of the connector before I remove the wires so I have a reference when putting them back in. Also, with the newest switch I did I needed to drill out the screw hole for the hazard flasher. The screw that was in my hazard flasher knob would not thread in all the way.

Clip the wires from your old switch, then tape the end of the new wires to the old ones. Try to keep the new wires as low profile and "flat" as possible, opposed to being wadded into a round bundle. You also want to avoid having a big bundle of tape, the connection needs to be kinda sleek. I usually bend one wire on each harness back against itself and hook them together for a little extra strength so the tape doesn't pull apart when pulling the new wires in. I've also used the old wiring to pull a single wire through to use later for pulling the new harness in.

Go under the dash, unhook the connector from the column, and gently pull the new wiring through the column. You may need to carefully feed the wires in from the steering wheel side as you pull. I don't think I've ever needed to lubricate the wires for the pull, but I wouldn't hesitate to use a little bit of soapy water if it felt too tight.

Once the new switch is in position, re-install the wire ends in the connector, plug the connector into it's spot on the column and test all the signals and hazards before you put the lock and cover plate back on.

If it's a tilt column try to get down to any of these screws while the switch is out, make sure they're tight. These are famous for loosening up and causing a wobbly column. You can get to one or two of them with the column pulled down this far IIRC, they are about 6-8" down from the turn switch and hold the whole top of the column to the main column.

You must be registered for see images attach

Here is how the connector mount to the column... see how the wiring all lays flat? The channel the wires go in is a flat plastic raceway which is why I said to make sure your wire bundle is flat when you pull it in.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Broken85]

If you are asking how the blinker arm comes out of the column; yes it just pulls out with a good tug and then pushes back in. Make sure it is clocked correctly before you shove it back in there.

The blinker/high beam/ cruise control/ wiper switch is the first thing they install in the column and the last thing out, so everything (read EVERYTHING) has to come out first. Many have found it easier to take the whole column out and doing it on a bench rather than in the truck.

 

[YakkoWarner]

I've never done one with the washer/wiper and cruise control on the turn signal stalk but I assume the rest of the process is the same. Should be one screw in the stalk, one screw in the center of the "Hazard" flasher switch, and two Phillips screws holding the switch to the column.

When you get your new switch, de-pin the plastic connector so you are just dealing with the wires. I like to take a picture of the connector before I remove the wires so I have a reference when putting them back in. Also, with the newest switch I did I needed to drill out the screw hole for the hazard flasher. The screw that was in my hazard flasher knob would not thread in all the way.

Clip the wires from your old switch, then tape the end of the new wires to the old ones. Try to keep the new wires as low profile and "flat" as possible, opposed to being wadded into a round bundle. You also want to avoid having a big bundle of tape, the connection needs to be kinda sleek. I usually bend one wire on each harness back against itself and hook them together for a little extra strength so the tape doesn't pull apart when pulling the new wires in. I've also used the old wiring to pull a single wire through to use later for pulling the new harness in.

Go under the dash, unhook the connector from the column, and gently pull the new wiring through the column. You may need to carefully feed the wires in from the steering wheel side as you pull. I don't think I've ever needed to lubricate the wires for the pull, but I wouldn't hesitate to use a little bit of soapy water if it felt too tight.

Once the new switch is in position, re-install the wire ends in the connector, plug the connector into it's spot on the column and test all the signals and hazards before you put the lock and cover plate back on.

If it's a tilt column try to get down to any of these screws while the switch is out, make sure they're tight. These are famous for loosening up and causing a wobbly column. You can get to one or two of them with the column pulled down this far IIRC, they are about 6-8" down from the turn switch and hold the whole top of the column to the main column.

You must be registered for see images attach

Here is how the connector mount to the column... see how the wiring all lays flat? The channel the wires go in is a flat plastic raceway which is why I said to make sure your wire bundle is flat when you pull it in.

You must be registered for see images attach

OK - inquiring minds want to know on this one:

You used the phrase "de-pin the connector" very casually - as if it were something that could be accomplished by mere humans.
How the -censored for my protection- do you actually do that without destroying the connector and wire ends? The one time I tried to get one of those things apart (only 3 wires, much less than the one in question here) I ended up destroying all of it and had to find another one to cut and splice the wires onto.

 

[Broken85]

OK - inquiring minds want to know on this one:

You used the phrase "de-pin the connector" very casually - as if it were something that could be accomplished by mere humans.
How the -censored for my protection- do you actually do that without destroying the connector and wire ends? The one time I tried to get one of those things apart (only 3 wires, much less than the one in question here) I ended up destroying all of it and had to find another one to cut and splice the wires onto.

it’s not difficult to press the retain clip in the harness with a pick and pull out the pin, but IMHO you don’t need to do that to get it through. You can turn the bracket plug sideways with the wires in it and get it through the channel. Get a good pull string and some electrical tape to keep everything tight and small.

 

[Jgonick]

The metal terminals will have a tab (tang)- you push the wire as deep as it will go from the back into the connector .-this causes the metal terminal to be as far forward as possible. Take a very small flat head screwdriver (or something similar) and push the metal tab down - when you are pushing the metal tab down you pull the wire out. Takes a little practice but once you do a few it becomes easy- see attachment

 

[Sad Sack]

Sometimes these come in handy:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D5669DH1/

 

[Gpaw44]

The metal terminals will have a tab (tang)- you push the wire as deep as it will go from the back into the connector .-this causes the metal terminal to be as far forward as possible. Take a very small flat head screwdriver (or something similar) and push the metal tab down - when you are pushing the metal tab down you pull the wire out. Takes a little practice but once you do a few it becomes easy- see attachment

For this I have used a Bobby Pin. You know, those things ladies and some men now wear in their hair to keep it pinned back out of their face!

 

[CalSgt]

OK - inquiring minds want to know on this one:

You used the phrase "de-pin the connector" very casually - as if it were something that could be accomplished by mere humans.
How the -censored for my protection- do you actually do that without destroying the connector and wire ends? The one time I tried to get one of those things apart (only 3 wires, much less than the one in question here) I ended up destroying all of it and had to find another one to cut and splice the wires onto.

Like @Broken85 @Jgonick @Gpaw44 said... There is a small lock tab on the connector, push the wire into the plug, depress the lock tab with a small tool and gently pull the wire out. Before reassembly, ensure the lock tabs are bent back out so they latch when inserting the wire some lock tabs are springy and go right back and others need persuasion.

There are some connectors that are an absolute PIA to do this with so I understand where you are coming from, but the turn signal connector isn't too bad. Actually... Now that I think about it, these GM column turn signal connectors are where I first learned this skill.

Sometimes these come in handy:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D5669DH1/

I've been tempted to buy one of these kits for the more PIA connectors, especially the ones too small to get nearly any tool into to get the wire to release.

 

[Matt69olds]

For this I have used a Bobby Pin. You know, those things ladies and some men now wear in their hair to keep it pinned back out of their face!

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