Cant find anything about keeping M1008 rear payload + shackle flip= front spring size

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vegetta58

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Looked thru every place I can find. Nothing about keeping stock rear springs and doing max lift with shackle flip + whatever else can be done in the rear for lift etc. Absoulutly no body lift though. Then setting up front end with correct spring height and best steering correction option. I plan on contacting ORD today and getting the correct parts list and ordering. I will update this thread with complete details and pics throughout build for everyones reference in the future. If anyone has experiance with this please post to help me. Thanks Mickey
 

Buck69

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How high you thinking? Will be looking at 4-6" shortly with the same truck.
 

BKING33

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I put the ORD flip kit on my CUCV. I can take pictures and post tonight to show you what I did.
 

Strick

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Hello and welcome to the site. I've had a couple of the CUCV trucks and lifted them with a 4" front spring on rear block set up only. The rear proportion valve still functioned with this setup. I have not used a shackle flip setup as of yet but I have seen many used on the trail. @BKING33 mentioned ORD and I believe that ORU may offer them as well. I have also seen where folks use the front spring mount from a 2WD truck to lower the spring as well. I have a K20 that I just acquired and it has a Pepboys/Autozone style shackle on the rear of it. I have not figured out how I'm going to do a drop on it but I will probably use one of the aforementioned methods to remedy the problem. You can see that homemade mess in the pic.
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Good Luck!

HS
 

vegetta58

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Trying to figure spring size up front after shackle flip. I'll post when I get in touch with ORD on what they recommend. Thanks
 

BKING33

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I installed the ORD shackle flip kit along with 4.5" rear shackle and did the ubolt reversal kit. I had removed the 1" spacer that was above spring pack for the overload spring and installed it under spring pack like a normal lift block. My truck is a 1028 CUCV. My other CUCV is a 1008 it it doesn't have the overload set up. I have 6" Superlift front springs. I have a 2" drop pitman arm on box and also did the swaybar disconnect kit. I have roughly 10" from top of springs to bottom of frame on frt and rear. Was attempting to attach photos and can't. Says file to big.
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BKING33

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I installed the ORD shackle flip kit along with 4.5" rear shackle and did the ubolt reversal kit. I had removed the 1" spacer that was above spring pack for the overload spring and installed it under spring pack like a normal lift block. My truck is a 1028 CUCV. My other CUCV is a 1008 it it doesn't have the overload set up. I have 6" Superlift front springs. I have a 2" drop pitman arm on box and also did the swaybar disconnect kit. I have roughly 10" from top of springs to bottom of frame on frt and rear. Was attempting to attach photos and can't. Says uploaded file to big.
 

BKING33

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Sorry for double post. Finally got some pics resized to upload. New phone never had a problem before.
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BKING33

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Here is the list of parts I purchased from off road design. Dont let prices upset you. Bought stuff in 2012.
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SquareRoot

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You gotta love those 5/4 1008 kidney killing spring packs! It took me all of about 10 miles of driving before they went in the trash. Live & learn.
 

Frankenchevy

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Airbags. There when you need them, not when you don’t. I went with ORD custom springs when I got rid of my stock CUCV springs and a set of airbags to restore payload when required.

A lower tech option would be timbrens or something similar.

FWIW, payload will never actually be the same as when the truck was at stock height due to physics. But you can have the same spring rate, if that’s what you are after. Something as simple as going from a tension shackle arrangement to a compression shackle, will change the characteristics somewhat.

Also, take a good look at your leaves while you’re at it. It’s not uncommon to find a broken leaf that’s not readily visible when assembled. Now would also be an ideal time to replace the bushings.
 

vegetta58

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I wanted to do the ORD springs all around but looks like I would have to sink 5K+ into suspension and engine crossmember alone. Thought was to do ORD springs upfront with flip in rear to trty and get a decent ride out of it with lower cost. Might not help at all. Don't know. Still might do the ORD springs all around. Going tro do one of the other this week or next. Any advice before I order would be helpful. Will update build all the way through so maybe it could help someone later. Thanks again
 

1x1_Speed_Craig

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I wanted to do the ORD springs all around but looks like I would have to sink 5K+ into suspension and engine crossmember alone. Thought was to do ORD springs upfront with flip in rear to trty and get a decent ride out of it with lower cost. Might not help at all. Don't know. Still might do the ORD springs all around. Going tro do one of the other this week or next. Any advice before I order would be helpful. Will update build all the way through so maybe it could help someone later. Thanks again

I'm not sure where you're coming up with your $5K number, but even seeing over $2K just in ORD leaf springs all-around...madness. They're leaf springs. I appreciate simple, effective suspension (leaf springs), but not at that price.
 

BKING33

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Only advice I can give anyone is a 1-ton truck will drive like a tank empty. I used to daily drive a lifted K10 for many years.
I bought my CUCV to replace it due to rust issues. Unfortunately, this is not a truck to drive daily unless you use it like a work truck.
Empty my truck will knock your teeth out on any bump. Throw a cord of firewood in the bed or drag a loaded trailer and its ok. You almost
have to have 2 trucks, one for work and one to have for fun!
 

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