Supporting mods required for 52" front & rear shackle flip on long bed.

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Blmpkn

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Planning on using the diy4x brackets to do the 52" spring swap, and using a raised steering arm on the axle.

Will 4" longer shocks allow for full travel with the longer leafs? Obviously 4" longer shocks would work for 4" lift springs... but the longer leafs will allow for more travel so..

As for the shackle flip.. does anyone have pictures of how off center the rear wheel is in the well after the flip? I've read endless conflicting info on the topic... some people say their axle moved 2-3" forward... some people say it only moved forward half an inch.. what's the best way to center the axle post-flip?

I've read that flipping shackles on a long bed will require a t-case drop to retain proper driveshaft geometry.. but again.. read quite a bit saying it's not necessary..

Hoping one of you squarebody wizards can clear things up for me. I know these topics are pretty well discussed... but I've already done a ton of googling on all this... don't have as much time to spend just googling stuff these days. Thanks guys.
 

PrairieDrifter

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Planning on using the diy4x brackets to do the 52" spring swap, and using a raised steering arm on the axle.

Will 4" longer shocks allow for full travel with the longer leafs? Obviously 4" longer shocks would work for 4" lift springs... but the longer leafs will allow for more travel so..

As for the shackle flip.. does anyone have pictures of how off center the rear wheel is in the well after the flip? I've read endless conflicting info on the topic... some people say their axle moved 2-3" forward... some people say it only moved forward half an inch.. what's the best way to center the axle post-flip?

I've read that flipping shackles on a long bed will require a t-case drop to retain proper driveshaft geometry.. but again.. read quite a bit saying it's not necessary..

Hoping one of you squarebody wizards can clear things up for me. I know these topics are pretty well discussed... but I've already done a ton of googling on all this... don't have as much time to spend just googling stuff these days. Thanks guys.
For shock travel you'll have to measure your "stuff" and "droop" then order shocks that are the right length and have enough travel for your suspension.

Your wheel centering can vary slightly, these can be remedied with ORD's axle offset blocks, as well as the pinion angle can be remedied with pinion angle shims also available from ORD or DIY. Shouldn't have to mess with the transfer case.
 

nvrenuf

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First don’t drop the tcase, this is a hack. When you lower the tcase the front driveshaft angle gets worse so you’re just moving the problem. Get shims, cut and rotate the spring perches, CV driveshaft, etc there are plenty of ways to deal with driveline vibration problems.

As stated, you’ll have to install the springs and the flex it to measure for shocks. While doing this be sure to looking at your brake hose length and driveshaft travel too.

Plan on ditching the sway bar and doing crossover steering with the spring swap. The 52’s allow more travel than the push pull linkage has range of motion. The longer springs can droop far enough that push pull steering can become unresponsive.

The Off Road Design Zero Rate blocks have 2 offset settings, 1” and 1.5”. I’m pretty sure this is relative to their shackle flips - 2.5 flip = 1” offset and 4” flip = 1.5” offset.
 

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