Have hear that tightening them down to 0 lash and backing off a full turn is an easy way to set them, is this true?
No, that's wrong. It may be easy, but it's definitely not true. If you did it that way you would have no preload and your valve train would have gaps - and clatter like an SOB.
I think what you heard was, carefully tighten the adjusting nut while twisting the push rod back and forth. When even the slightest resistance is felt to the twisting motion - STOP. You have zero lash.
To set stock preload, continue to
tighten the rocker adjusting nut - do not back off. How much to tighten the nut (and pre-load the lifter) is the subject of countless discussions.
But truth be told, however much you decide to preload (1/2 turn, 3/4 turn , a full turn) - it is not that critical. Just be sure that you are consistent and preload all the lifters to the same amount.
The plunger of a properly preloaded lifter should be at approximately the mid-point of it's total available stroke.
As it turns out, 1/2 of the total plunger stroke of a stock lifter is just about equal to the cross-sectional diameter of the retaining circlip.
So, when properly preloaded, the gap between the top of the plunger socket and the bottom of the circlip is equal to the cross-sectional diameter of the circlip. The image below explains better:
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Point is, when you are all done preloading you can easily check your work by rotating the engine. As each piston reaches TDC on compression, look down into the top of the lifter and observe the circlip/socket gap. If it is the same as the thickness of the circlip you are good to go.
