Battery positive to ''body' ground not a good ground like frame or chassi ground

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Hugomartin

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its a bit chilly outdoors so i dont expect super accuracy with my multimeter but bat pos to frame usualy yeilds 0v.

Bat pos to block ground is much easier to get 11 o 12v same goes for chaassie ground to batt pos

I have a few ground wires connected to frame by the hood , perhaps this is the problem all along. I can get 11 or12v at that wireand on that bolt there but if i go to touch just an inch over on the frame i get 0v.. I always thought it was correct because chevy put it there. !!!
 

MarineOne

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I always add a good heavy gauge ground from block to chassis and from same stud on chassis to body
 

fast 99

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Agree, a lot of these had a braided ground strap on the right head to firewall. Sometimes it got deleted. I add redundant grounds just because I don't like fires.
 

Scott91370

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My current setup is:
2g from battery to frame to engine block
2g from frame to cab
10g from battery to core support
10g from frame to bed (Had this but added here after Turbo4whl mentioned it)

You can never have too much ground.
 
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Turbo4whl

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Like @Scott91370 stated, you can never have too many grounds. One more, is a nice 10g from your frame to the truck bed. The factory relies on the bed bolts for the bed ground. Over time and rust the bed can loose it's ground. This will cause havoc with you tail lights.
 

Hugomartin

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Can ground to the aluminum thing by the heater core it seems to pick up a ground quite well
 

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Camar068

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I've always liked a ground from the block on each side of the engine as well as the main ground from the battery to the alternator bracket. How you configure it is up to you, but I think it's a good idea to ground strap from battery side to the other using the engine as the center point.

So to make it easy......

Battery to Alternator bracket.....block to frame on that side......block to frame on opposite side.

Another good alternative would be battery to frame.....frame to block....block to frame on opposite side
 

rich weyand

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The battery, the block, the frame, and the cab all need to agree on what 0V is. That takes three wires to connect the four things. Standard is the small one from the battery to the radiator support, the big one from the battery to the block, and a braid from the RHS valve cover to the firewall. An extra from the bed to the frame is probably a good idea rather than rely on the mounting bolts.
Missing any of those, things can act pretty weird, like the fuel gauge needle bumping up and down with the turn signal. Seen it.
 

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