Ball joint

[texasmike]

I have had this truck for 5 years and put about 2,300 miles a year on it. It now has 64,600 ligament miles on a factory stock suspension and I have not been able to get the lower left ball joint to accept grease. I don't know how long it has been like that but the piece of rubber around it feels empty. The truck drives and handles great, the suspension is not loose and does not make any noises.The other nine fittings are fine.
I moved the right grease fitting to the left side and that did not help. Before I screwed the fitting in, I stuck a jewelers screwdriver in the hole and could not feel anything but a little new grease and metal. I bought one of those grease gun tips that locks on the fitting and have tried pumping grease in with the wheel on the ground and with it up in the air, both stationary and while turning it. This bothers me and I would like to get it fixed. Any ideas as to what has caused this and are there any tricks that may help, short of replacing the ball joint?
Thanks again for the help.

 

[bucket]

If there's a trick to getting one that stubborn to accept grease, I don't know it. Maybe spray a bunch of penetrating oil under the boot and drive it for a few days.

There's several folks here that might have a good idea.

 

[Edelbrock]

One way to get grease into a ball joint is to bypass the zirk.

You go to Walmart and get some "marine grease" and some rubbing alcohol.

The grease has good compatibility with other greases, and 90% alcohol is ideal.

Then you go to a farm supply store and buy some syringes that have needles.

Then you get some "Permatex The Right Stuff Gasket Maker" on Amazon.

You fill the syringe with grease, and then inject it into the ball joint boot.

Then clean the rubber with the alcohol.

Then coat the tiny hole with plenty of the gasket sealer, and let sit for 12-24 hours.

 

[bucket]

Getting grease into the boot won't necessarily get grease into the joint.

 

[Ricko1966]

Get a grease gun needle,grease it with the needle. Pull the zerk fill the bottom,stab the boot fill the top.

 

[idahovette]

Seems I remember a tool that was used with a small hammer to "shock " the ball joint into accepting grease. Like a grease gun, hooked onto the zerk and tapped the opposite end with the hammer, kinda "jarred" the joint and success??

 

[Broken85]

A few things to try. First, replace the grease fitting. It is probably clogged or rusted. When you have the grease fitting out, check the bottom of the fitting hole and make sure it is not plugged at the bottom with rust or crap. This will solve the problem 90% of the time. They are like $0.50.

If still no good, raise the front end off the ground and take some pressure off the front end and see if it accepts grease.

Finally, find the point in the travel when the joint is loosest (between the left/right throw. That will be the best point for it to accept grease.

 

[fast 99]

This will work but if the joint is dry probably needs replacement.

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[Grit dog]

If there's a trick to getting one that stubborn to accept grease, I don't know it. Maybe spray a bunch of penetrating oil under the boot and drive it for a few days.

There's several folks here that might have a good idea.

Can’t say I’ve ever tried that but it’s the only thing I can think of too, to maybe get grease to flow thru.
Or possibly, heating the ball joint enough that it boils some old grease out? Would require replacing the boot when it melts. But may work.
Realistically, though, if the ball joint is tight and smooth and the camber is good, I’d shoot some grease under the boot for good measure and drive it. At 2k miles per year, this may turn into a minor required repair in one year or 10 years.

 

[Grit dog]

This will work but if the joint is dry probably needs replacement.

You must be registered for see images attach

Holy crap!
Thanks to you and @idahovette I learned something important today!
Never knew these existed. But I’m going to buy one.
Have had a wheel bushing on one of the mowers that hasn’t taken grease for several years. I’ve been using the grease everything else and ignore it plan. lol. Plus seems there’s always the odd greasable component on (any of my crap) that is hard to take grease. Snowmachines have a dozen or more fittings in the suspension and sometimes they’re stubborn. Between the snowmobiles, boat, mowers and 3 antique vehicles, there’s good hundred or more fittings and many are old.
On another note, it doesn’t take much grease to keep going for a long time as long as it doesn’t leak out. Even at high rpm’s.
Different story if it’s just old grease turned to semi useless wax, aka a ball joint that may not have been greased in 35 years.

 

[edgephoto]

Be careful heating a ball joint. When the grease expands it causes pressure. I watched a moron blow a hole in his foot touching a ball joint out of a Ford truck in the 80s. The knuckle was removed and the stud shot out like a bullet. He was out of work for a couple weeks. I told him not to do it but he knew better.

 

[idahovette]

Yeah That's it @fast 99 Good job!...........and I know this because I am OLD @Grit dog .....lol

 

[Fastduramax]

One word LockNLube visit the website, solved every greasing issue I’ve ever encountered and I’ve owned a Mack tri axle and Kobelco excavator since 92, tons of good stuff even slick tire inflation stuff for people scared to death of truck tires like myself….

 

[texasmike]

One word LockNLube visit the website, solved every greasing issue I’ve ever encountered and I’ve owned a Mack tri axle and Kobelco excavator since 92, tons of good stuff even slick tire inflation stuff for people scared to death of truck tires like myself….

I bought one and it solved the problem on two of my fittings but it would not work on this ball joint'
Thanks to everyone for your comments and suggestions. I'm going to try one more thing. I need to find someplace with a lift and get the wheel about waist high and while someone is applying pressure to the fitting, have another person shake the hell out of the wheel while turning it. If that doesn't work, I'll start with the penetrating oil.

 

[Ricko1966]

Can’t say I’ve ever tried that but it’s the only thing I can think of too, to maybe get grease to flow thru.
Or possibly, heating the ball joint enough that it boils some old grease out? Would require replacing the boot when it melts. But may work.
Realistically, though, if the ball joint is tight and smooth and the camber is good, I’d shoot some grease under the boot for good measure and drive it. At 2k miles per year, this may turn into a minor required repair in one year or 10 years.

You don't want to heat ball joints especially not aftermarket ones,they can have bronze bushings,no problem,or nylon bushings,there's the problem.