at a loss some one help

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1911_colt

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Hi guys havent been on in a while but iv got a problem with my 87 suburban I drove it a week or two ago and now it wont start it has no spark and its not squirting any gas I replaced the coil and still nothing I also took the dist out and cleaned the heck out of it suggestions please
 

chengny

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No spark and no fuel? Maybe no power to the ECM?

Turn the key to just the RUN position and note whether the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light is illuminated.
If it isn't, check the ECM/IGN fuse - maybe #3.
 
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1911_colt

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Theres no check engine light on in the dash and how else can I tell if I have power to the comp I know I have power to the coil and it turns over I checked all fuses and still nothing
 

chengny

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If your ECM fuse is not blown, check the fusible link.

Other than that, it's a physical wiring issue (or an ECM problem). Pull and re-seat any associated connectors, check your grounds and look for broken leads.

The SES light not on is almost a certain indication that your ECM is not functioning.

Be sure to check for continuity across the ECM/IGN fuse with a meter - don't go by the way it looks.
 
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chengny

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Cleaned out the distributor? What was in there that needed cleaned out? Broken rusty metal bits perhaps?

No fuel/spark on a TBI motor is usually a bad ignition module or a broken pickup coil. Of course, assuming the fuses are good and no critter has chewed wiring.
 

1911_colt

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Yes I cleaned out the spot in the dist the has the magnet and points in it and yes I cleaned the cap all up also if uts turns over could the fusable link still be bad and also I have power at all 4 wires on the coil if that helps any. Where exactly is the fusable link is it under the dash or hood?
 

chengny

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I don't know for sure where the fusible link is - I believe on your truck, it's under the dash - someone else will know for sure.

But you can move ahead with this diagnostic - without knowing the location of the link.

Locate the ECM/IGN fuse (it should be in the 3rd slot from the top on the far left column). Using a test lamp or a multimeter check whether or not battery voltage is available to the fuse.

Pull the fuse out. One probe (of your meter or test light) goes to the line side of the fuse socket and the other goes to a good ground. I don't know which side of the socket is line and which is load; but it doesn't matter -test both sides.

The power to the fuse is straight from the battery (un-switched) so ignition switch position is not relevant. You don't even need a key for this check.

If you observe 12VDC at the fuse you can safely assume - because the link is between the battery and the fuse block - that the fusible link is intact. That part of the diagnostic is done.


If there is no power to the fuse - we'll have to determine where the link is physically located.

Check for power up to the fuse first and work from there.
 

1911_colt

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Ok so been really busy lately but I have an update I got a junk yard distributor and put it in and it back fired so I put it to tdc and nust put my wires in the right spot but now I have to spark but I do have fuel so what could it be now I checked all fuses I replaces the ignitor just before the back fire and I just tested my coil and its good
 

Rusty Nail

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The ignition module is the only part of a C3 system that can cut both fuel AND spark. Your last post is not clear, care to elaborate?
 

1911_colt

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ok update its running ha when it back fired it messed up the ignition module so I got a new one and put it in runs fine now just gotta get the 2.5 year old gas out of it and fix the window wiring its a giant mess of wires in the door jam
 

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