Need Some Help Here

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kattsmeow

Junior Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2023
Posts
5
Reaction score
9
Location
Tennessee
First Name
Pamela Clark
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
Chevy
Engine Size
350
Thanks Guys you sure make a gal feel Welcome. Thanks to my Ole Pop made me love Trucks and the older the Better. Got the Truck back and it still have issues. That stupid light is going to drive me crazy! The Shop owner said it's something I may have to live with, well NO it hadn't been on for 5 yrs so why Now? Now about where do I put the wire in the A and B port Right? Then turn the switch on without starting it Right? And Count the Blinks. Also I'm learning how this site is so please be patient don't know yet how it all works. I just want my Beauty to run well and Look at Awesome cause I love these Trucks. Thanks Guys for all your help you just don't know how much it's appreciated.
 
Joined
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36
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45
Location
22310
First Name
Dave
Truck Year
1989
Truck Model
Suburban
Engine Size
350
here is a video (there are several on youtube, this one is pretty easy to follow)

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

The truck is newer than yours, but the process is exactly the same. I used a bent paperclip to short my a/b terminals together.


Here are the codes that a square could push, it is a partial list of the GM OBD1 codeset:

12 - indicator code, start of code sequence
13 - O2 (oxygen sensor) circuit (sensor open, no activity)
14 - ECT/CTS (Engine Coolant Temperature/Coolant Temperature Sensor) circuit resistance low or shorted (high temperature)
15 - ECT/CTS (Engine Coolant Temperature/Coolant Temperature Sensor) circuit resistance high or open (low temperature)
16 - VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) buffer fault or shorted
21 - TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) circuit high (signal voltage high), higher than 5v DC (highest voltage WOT)
22 - TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) circuit low (signal voltage low), lower than .2v DC (lowest voltage idle)
24 - VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) circuit low/circuit fault
28 - TR (Transmission Range) pressure switch assembly / Quad Driver Module (QDM A) error, circuit #2 fault
32 - EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve error
33 - MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor circuit high, signal out of range, high resistance (low vacuum)
34 - MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor circuit low, signal out of range, low resistance (high vacuum)
35 - IAC (Idle Air Control) error
36 - Idle speed control actuator error (when equipped) / Ignition system circuit error
42 - EST (Electronic Spark Timing) circuit error, grounded shorted
43 - KS (Knock Sensor) error
44 - Lean exhaust (oxygen sensor indicates lean condition)
45 - Rich exhaust (oxygen sensor indicates rich condition)
51 - PROM (Programmable memory) error (chip), calibration error
53 - System voltage high (supply to ECM/PCM)
54 - Fuel pump relay circuit low voltage
55 - ECM/PCM error


Here is a good page with details.

 

Dryriver1

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
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766
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Location
Texas
First Name
Robert
Truck Year
1984, 1999,
Truck Model
1984 Chevy Silverado K10, 1999 Chevy 2 door Tahoe 4x4
Engine Size
350 cid, 5.7
Thanks Guys you sure make a gal feel Welcome. Thanks to my Ole Pop made me love Trucks and the older the Better. Got the Truck back and it still have issues. That stupid light is going to drive me crazy! The Shop owner said it's something I may have to live with, well NO it hadn't been on for 5 yrs so why Now? Now about where do I put the wire in the A and B port Right? Then turn the switch on without starting it Right? And Count the Blinks. Also I'm learning how this site is so please be patient don't know yet how it all works. I just want my Beauty to run well and Look at Awesome cause I love these Trucks. Thanks Guys for all your help you just don't know how much it's appreciated.

Hello @kattsmeow.
I hope all is well.

I was just checking in with you to see what the outcome was with your truck or if there is any news on it?

Be well and stay safe out there.
Best wishes to you and all of your loved ones always!

Dryriver1
 

kattsmeow

Junior Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2023
Posts
5
Reaction score
9
Location
Tennessee
First Name
Pamela Clark
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
Chevy
Engine Size
350
Hello Dryriver1, Sorry about the lateness getting back on. I think I messed up my ACL and been having problems with that. But anyway can't remember the last entry of mine but I took my truck back to the mechanic he told me that the service light may still come on but it never stayed on prior other there was something wrong. I wished I took my Truck to the place in the past we used to take our cars too but we tried this shop and had good outcome but that was a different mechanic and he no longer is at this Shop. What gets me concerned when I drive it and not far I may add. I smell burnt oil smell when I get out of the Truck. Since I've got my Truck back I haven't drove it far, I've been taking Ubers or have my stuff delivered and I really can't afford doing this. It makes me so upset that I've lost my wings and it makes me me mad that I can't drive my Beautiful Truck. I love this Truck. Most women would rather have Diamonds and a Lexus but I'd rather have my Darn Ole Truck. And it took everything I could scarf up to I thought to get her fixed and up and running I thought but I got Hooo Dood, and I need my butt kicked. It will take me a year or more to save up just to have her looked at the other shop. I bet it will cost me $1500 or more to get her fixed. I'm going to try to do the wire trick to see about the codes hope it works. If I succed I will let you know. My Camero did something like that you had to do the switch 3 times without starting it and codes would come up. Are they a certain kind of wire to do the test. Someone said a paperclip may work. There's no way I could mess up my truck doing this test? I'd hate to make things worse. Anyway Thanks for messaging me about my problem just say a little prayer that some how I can get the funds to fix it. ( I'm getting me a Lot to Ticket each week hoping I would hit just enough that's all I ask but I wouldn't shy from a little more. LOL). Have a Great Week.
 

Ricko1966

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2017
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Location
kansas
First Name
Rick
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
c20
Engine Size
350
Hello Dryriver1, Sorry about the lateness getting back on. I think I messed up my ACL and been having problems with that. But anyway can't remember the last entry of mine but I took my truck back to the mechanic he told me that the service light may still come on but it never stayed on prior other there was something wrong. I wished I took my Truck to the place in the past we used to take our cars too but we tried this shop and had good outcome but that was a different mechanic and he no longer is at this Shop. What gets me concerned when I drive it and not far I may add. I smell burnt oil smell when I get out of the Truck. Since I've got my Truck back I haven't drove it far, I've been taking Ubers or have my stuff delivered and I really can't afford doing this. It makes me so upset that I've lost my wings and it makes me me mad that I can't drive my Beautiful Truck. I love this Truck. Most women would rather have Diamonds and a Lexus but I'd rather have my Darn Ole Truck. And it took everything I could scarf up to I thought to get her fixed and up and running I thought but I got Hooo Dood, and I need my butt kicked. It will take me a year or more to save up just to have her looked at the other shop. I bet it will cost me $1500 or more to get her fixed. I'm going to try to do the wire trick to see about the codes hope it works. If I succed I will let you know. My Camero did something like that you had to do the switch 3 times without starting it and codes would come up. Are they a certain kind of wire to do the test. Someone said a paperclip may work. There's no way I could mess up my truck doing this test? I'd hate to make things worse. Anyway Thanks for messaging me about my problem just say a little prayer that some how I can get the funds to fix it. ( I'm getting me a Lot to Ticket each week hoping I would hit just enough that's all I ask but I wouldn't shy from a little more. LOL). Have a Great Week.
Pins A & B look at the pic I put up on post 12. Lots of paper clips have a vinyl coating and won't work unless you strip it off. But any plain old wire that will conduct electricity will work. Short pins A&B turn on the key count your morse code style flashes. And a code isn't a confirmation of a the problem. So list the codes so we can try to diagnose properly. Lots of people think just because they have code xyz they need to replace xyz,when the code is the symptom,not the problem.
 
Last edited:

hoagster

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California
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Mike
Truck Year
1973, 2000
Truck Model
K10, 1500
Engine Size
5.3l
@Ricko1966 If it's a obd1 port can't you get a reader to show the codes with out counting the flashes?

INNOVA 3123 GM OBD1 Code Reader​

 

hoagster

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xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
heres a video to show how to use the above scanner. And Autozone has them for $35

I used the ford version when I owned a Ranger pickup that would fail smog tests in California. Saved me several times on the EGR system
 

Ricko1966

Full Access Member
Joined
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Location
kansas
First Name
Rick
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
c20
Engine Size
350
@Ricko1966 If it's a obd1 port can't you get a reader to show the codes with out counting the flashes?

INNOVA 3123 GM OBD1 Code Reader​

Sure,but why would you? The piece of wire is free. We use to have a special key. I still have one,not on me though for reading gm codes. I'll get a pic, the 2 close prongs do engine codes, the other 4 are ABS. I lost my key that does just engine codes,I'm sure it's on a key ring somewhere it just has the 2 close prongs. You just stick the 2 close prongs into A&B and count. The only scanner on one of these I'd want is a tech 1 or snap on red brick. But for most people shorting A&B is all you need. Found a pic of one on the internet. The price is steep if you ask me,but it is convenient to keep on your key ring. Somebody use to give them away,I thinknit was our snap on man.
 

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Grit dog

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May 18, 2020
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Location
Washington
First Name
Todd
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
454
here is a video (there are several on youtube, this one is pretty easy to follow)

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

The truck is newer than yours, but the process is exactly the same. I used a bent paperclip to short my a/b terminals together.


Here are the codes that a square could push, it is a partial list of the GM OBD1 codeset:

12 - indicator code, start of code sequence
13 - O2 (oxygen sensor) circuit (sensor open, no activity)
14 - ECT/CTS (Engine Coolant Temperature/Coolant Temperature Sensor) circuit resistance low or shorted (high temperature)
15 - ECT/CTS (Engine Coolant Temperature/Coolant Temperature Sensor) circuit resistance high or open (low temperature)
16 - VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) buffer fault or shorted
21 - TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) circuit high (signal voltage high), higher than 5v DC (highest voltage WOT)
22 - TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) circuit low (signal voltage low), lower than .2v DC (lowest voltage idle)
24 - VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) circuit low/circuit fault
28 - TR (Transmission Range) pressure switch assembly / Quad Driver Module (QDM A) error, circuit #2 fault
32 - EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve error
33 - MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor circuit high, signal out of range, high resistance (low vacuum)
34 - MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor circuit low, signal out of range, low resistance (high vacuum)
35 - IAC (Idle Air Control) error
36 - Idle speed control actuator error (when equipped) / Ignition system circuit error
42 - EST (Electronic Spark Timing) circuit error, grounded shorted
43 - KS (Knock Sensor) error
44 - Lean exhaust (oxygen sensor indicates lean condition)
45 - Rich exhaust (oxygen sensor indicates rich condition)
51 - PROM (Programmable memory) error (chip), calibration error
53 - System voltage high (supply to ECM/PCM)
54 - Fuel pump relay circuit low voltage
55 - ECM/PCM error


Here is a good page with details.

Coming outta the cheap seats with a full code list! Nice work man! That’s why I love this forum.
 

Grit dog

Full Access Member
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Location
Washington
First Name
Todd
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
454
Hello Dryriver1, Sorry about the lateness getting back on. I think I messed up my ACL and been having problems with that. But anyway can't remember the last entry of mine but I took my truck back to the mechanic he told me that the service light may still come on but it never stayed on prior other there was something wrong. I wished I took my Truck to the place in the past we used to take our cars too but we tried this shop and had good outcome but that was a different mechanic and he no longer is at this Shop. What gets me concerned when I drive it and not far I may add. I smell burnt oil smell when I get out of the Truck. Since I've got my Truck back I haven't drove it far, I've been taking Ubers or have my stuff delivered and I really can't afford doing this. It makes me so upset that I've lost my wings and it makes me me mad that I can't drive my Beautiful Truck. I love this Truck. Most women would rather have Diamonds and a Lexus but I'd rather have my Darn Ole Truck. And it took everything I could scarf up to I thought to get her fixed and up and running I thought but I got Hooo Dood, and I need my butt kicked. It will take me a year or more to save up just to have her looked at the other shop. I bet it will cost me $1500 or more to get her fixed. I'm going to try to do the wire trick to see about the codes hope it works. If I succed I will let you know. My Camero did something like that you had to do the switch 3 times without starting it and codes would come up. Are they a certain kind of wire to do the test. Someone said a paperclip may work. There's no way I could mess up my truck doing this test? I'd hate to make things worse. Anyway Thanks for messaging me about my problem just say a little prayer that some how I can get the funds to fix it. ( I'm getting me a Lot to Ticket each week hoping I would hit just enough that's all I ask but I wouldn't shy from a little more. LOL). Have a Great Week.
Ok, take a break and breathe here.
It’s tough to hear that this is your only transportation and your financial situation, so we can help you.
First, you need to separate the issues and also be clear with us, does the truck run good/fine/ok, or is there an actual physical symptom? That’s the first thing. Hell, it could be an evap code or something totally innocuous. And if it’s running good then that’s likely the case and you could drive it for years without issue.
2nd burning oil smell. You said they replaced the valve cover gaskets. 90% chance it’s a weeping gasket getting a little oil on the exhaust manifold. Warped valve cover, not tight enough too tight, whatever. That’s easy to fix and doesn’t render it un drivable in the meantime. look inder the hood next time you smell it. If you see a small amount of smoke coming from the exhaust on either side it’s valve cover. Move on and don’t worry about it if money is an issue and it’s not leaking onto the ground (a bad leak).
The rest? Do the paper clip code reader. It’s free and easy and report back.

I understand you’re paranoid about stuff you don’t understand. That’s where we can help. I know a lot about these trucks and there’s plenty more guys on here that have forgotten more than I know. You have like 1000 mechanics at your disposal, for free, and none of them will rip you off because we have no stake in it. But we can keep YOU from getting ripped off in the future.
 

Grit dog

Full Access Member
Joined
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Posts
5,976
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Location
Washington
First Name
Todd
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
454
Another idea…who lives close to this lady on this forum.
Good chance there’s someone from here nearby you could bring the truck to.
If you were near me I’d volunteer…
 

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