Anything ignition spark related in the gauge cluster?

[Logbed]

Hi,
In December I had the gauge cluster in pieces and did minor electrical modifications (it is garage season here). I took away a dysfunctional, unconnected 2-wire oil pressure warning sensor and replaced it with a 1-wire (grounding) model that I connected to the gauge cluster so that the oil pressure warning is grounded via of the yellow warning lights (previously 4x4 and some other warning). I also changed the plastic to red to have a proper oil pressure warning in the gauge cluster. Some adjustment to the wiring of the gauges had to be made. If I remember right I used choke warning light wire to bring the oil pressure ground to the cluster. Nevertheless, it worked, as far as the lights were lit when I turned the key after everything was put back together. .

Stupid of me, I did not try start the engine though. Now today I tried to start but got no spark. To be honest there is a bit of a challange to remember about everything that could have gone wrong or have something to do with the engine getting no spark? Is there something in the cluster wiring that could be the reason? Just trying to get my head together with what I did in December and I would not like to take it apart again for no reason

 

[Turbo4whl]

Is there something in the cluster wiring that could be the reason?

Hello from USA. Your question is a tough one. First, what is the 334 engine? Custom built Chevy or some other brand?

You said it ran before the dash changes, easy thing to try, take apart the dash and unplug the harness. Does it run then? Yes I know, take the dash apart again. There is nothing in that dash that a GM engine needs to run.

 

[Ricko1966]

The unconnected 2 wire oil pressure switch was power to the electric choke. When the engine starts oil pressure closes the switch and provides 12v+ power to the choke. That's not going to keep it from starting but. It will prevent the choke from opening as it should. Messing with wiring now you have a crank no start I'd assume you knocked the wire loose on the distributor cap. No crank no start I'd assume you unplugged the ignition switch.

 

[nvrenuf]

First, what is the 334 engine? Custom built Chevy or some other brand?

Stroked 305

 

[Turbo4whl]

Stroked 305

Okay, next check fuses, the ckoke power feed is key switched on. Could have burnt the ignition feed depending on what wires you took power from.

 

[Logbed]

Hello from USA. Your question is a tough one. First, what is the 334 engine? Custom built Chevy or some other brand?

You said it ran before the dash changes, easy thing to try, take apart the dash and unplug the harness. Does it run then? Yes I know, take the dash apart again. There is nothing in that dash that a GM engine needs to run.

Its a Chevy 305 with 383 crank and 3.766" forged pistons. Roller engine, GM LT4 hot cam, ported 059 Vortec heads w. 1.94/1.60 valves. 407hp/434ftlbs. Can't take credit for the long block and heads tho, those were made by an experienced engine builder.

 

[Logbed]

The unconnected 2 wire oil pressure switch was power to the electric choke. When the engine starts oil pressure closes the switch and provides 12v+ power to the choke. That's not going to keep it from starting bur.will prevent the choke from opening as it should. Messing with wiring now you have a crank no start I'd assume you knocked the wire loose on the distributor cap. No crank no start I'd assume you unplugged the ignition switch.

I've got manual choke (or actually no choke plate at all, just manual high idle), the choke being the right leg and a double pumper Holley For some reason the choke was too rich to be usable for me even though I have a pretty lean idle, set with a lambda sensor.

I'll have to recheck the distributor cap wire, wouldn't be the first time it is not connected

 

[Logbed]

Its running again. Once again coil wires in the distributor not completely in place even though they looked and felt like it. I've got too tight space there, should get a proper connector instead of 3 wires.