77 K10 LS Swap

[Madhorn]

Latest donor vehicle. 2004 Tahoe with a good 5.3, 4L60 and transfercase. Approximately 170k miles.

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[Madhorn]

Latest donor engine and trans pulled from the Tahoe.

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[Madhorn]

The right rear brake light and right turn signal quit working last Saturday. I figured it was just a bulb, but a new bulb did not fix the problem. After some troubleshooting I figured out that the turn signal switch in the steering column was the problem.

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[78C10BigTen]

The right rear brake light and right turn signal quit working last Saturday. I figured it was just a bulb, but a new bulb did not fix the problem. After some troubleshooting I figured out that the turn signal switch in the steering column was the problem.

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That sucks. Theyre no fun ta fix!

 

[squaredeal91]

The right rear brake light and right turn signal quit working last Saturday. I figured it was just a bulb, but a new bulb did not fix the problem. After some troubleshooting I figured out that the turn signal switch in the steering column was the problem.

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Sure is a bit of work to get into there, dang. On the bright side you have a tachometer! And I like the wood grain too.

 

[Madhorn]

Alternator went out Thursday on my way home from work. Luckily I made it home without issue. Installed an alternator from my parts pile. Back up and running.

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[Madhorn]

After a 200 mile duck hunting trip today, the 77 rolled over 60k miles since the LS swap.

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I have throughly enjoyed every mile and would definitely do it again.

 

[Camar068]

Glad ur enjoying yours as well I am mine. I can play with more for less mpg's.

 

[Madhorn]

It’s been 6 years since completing the LS swap in the 77. The engine has seen some minor upgrades over the years like a cam, headers, and intake tube. I have played around with tuning myself using a HP tuner set up. The truck has always run well with some occasional idle quirks but good overall. However, I have always had this overwhelming feeling I was missing something. So I finally broke down and took the 77 to professional tuner. Yes it was expensive, but in the end the 77 drive so better. Should have done this sooner. Throttle response and acceleration have improved and overall driving experience is much better. If you afford it, I highly recommend using a professional tuner.

 

[Camar068]

It’s been 6 years since completing the LS swap in the 77. The engine has seen some minor upgrades over the years like a cam, headers, and intake tube. I have played around with tuning myself using a HP tuner set up. The truck has always run well with some occasional idle quirks but good overall. However, I have always had this overwhelming feeling I was missing something. So I finally broke down and took the 77 to professional tuner. Yes it was expensive, but in the end the 77 drive so better. Should have done this sooner. Throttle response and acceleration have improved and overall driving experience is much better. If you afford it, I highly recommend using a professional tuner.

I'm looking at $500-600 where I want to take it. What did you pay and was it dyno? Also, did it include a shift points tune?

A concern of mine was/is I did the swap and it spun a bearing 5 yrs later and I rebuilt it. But between those 2, I've never had it WOT.....too scared lol.

 

[Madhorn]

I'm looking at $500-600 where I want to take it. What did you pay and was it dyno? Also, did it include a shift points tune?

A concern of mine was/is I did the swap and it spun a bearing 5 yrs later and I rebuilt it. But between those 2, I've never had it WOT.....too scared lol.

I paid $600 for a street tune. No shift point tuning here, 77 is manual. Sorry to hear about the spun bearing.

 

[Camar068]

I paid $600 for a street tune. No shift point tuning here, 77 is manual. Sorry to hear about the spun bearing.

yeh I think that was all due to age and having Rob Zombie going too loud when i took off to work that day lol. Didn't hear or feel anything except loss of go-go.
It's been rebuilt and running good for the past year though.

 

[Madhorn]

Fingers crossed. My 5.3 bottom end has 241k on it. I did put a new oil pump in it when I did the swap, then added .100 worth of washers to the pressure relief spring in oil pump when I did the cam swap. Oil pressure went from 40 ish to 55ish.

 

[frankie78_k20]

I had to leave my engine in the

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stock location due to the mechanical clutch linkage. That puts the engine close to the firewall.

Awesome build thread! I have a question from your early phase of the build years ago. I looked through, and didn't see any pictures or post about it, so hopefully not a repeated question.

But using the ICT billet motor mounting plates and locating the engine in the stock location due to z-bar constraint, did you have to modify or notch the stock engine crossmember at all? I am swapping a 6.0 into my k20, leaving sm465 and mech clutch linkage for now. But can not find a solid answer from someone that has gone this route about any engine crossmember interference. Thanks for any advice!

 

[Camar068]

Awesome build thread! I have a question from your early phase of the build years ago. I looked through, and didn't see any pictures or post about it, so hopefully not a repeated question.

But using the ICT billet motor mounting plates and locating the engine in the stock location due to z-bar constraint, did you have to modify or notch the stock engine crossmember at all? I am swapping a 6.0 into my k20, leaving sm465 and mech clutch linkage for now. But can not find a solid answer from someone that has gone this route about any engine crossmember interference. Thanks for any advice!

if you have to notch it....it's not enough to worry about. I didn't notch mine because when it was installed the vent hose for the front diff got pinched there and I thought....good enough lol. I ran another hose for the diff. Honestly it's not much to clear.