Discussion in 'Engine Swaps (Gas) LS, Vortec, LT1 , etc.' started by Madhorn, Jul 19, 2018.
I used some steel straps I found in a scrap bin at work.
For some reason I didnt have to extend the shroud
My fan fit in the right spot
Did you set the engine forward during your installation??
Now that you mention it I think we did
But we had to for it to clear the firewall so I thought everyone did it
I didn't, but there isn't much clearance lol. 1/2" if i'm lucky lol. I wasn't worried about it.
a lot of times it depends on the motor mount adapters you use. The ones form Tejas Steelworks put the engine forward about 2 inches, which makes it fit in the shroud properly. On the other end of the engine, i fyou are going from a standard or three speed to a 4l60E I think it balances out, but if you are going from a 700r4 to a 4l60e then you end up sliding the trans cross member up and lengthening your rear driveshaft (and shortening your front if you have a 4x4).
I had to leave my engine in the
stock location due to the mechanical clutch linkage. That puts the engine close to the firewall.
Bummer! Found a puddle of coolant under the truck this morning. Water pump is leaking. That's whet I get for not installing a new pump when I put the engine together. Was hoping to get a few miles on it first. Oh well, no big deal. Just sets me back a bit on having the exhaust done.
LOL, i had considered whether or not to do it and I went ahead and picked up a new water pump. I figure it is cheap insurance. they sell one that is preloaded with a new thermostat from Gates for 68 bucks on Amazon. I'm sure any parts store will have that same item. Gates # was 45005, otherwise there is an AC delco pump but I think it was 30 bucks more last time I looked. I'm thinking maybe about a new starter too but from what I read most guys that try new car parts units have them crap out and end up getting better replacement's from the salvage yards.
My short term exhaust fix is dual straight pipes dumping just behind the rear axle. It will work for now. My youngest son wanted to go for a drive, so we went to our deer lease 5 miles from home. He is getting pretty good with the manual trans. Picked up a water pump today. Will install it later this week.
Is anyone using an HP tuner set up? I am considering getting one. Never seen one used in person. Are they difficult to use?
I got my starter from DB Electrical. Theres plenty of users on here that have purchased from them. I haven't noticed any complaints. They sell on amazon as well.
Not yet but I know at some point I will be doing another swap and more than likely I'll pick up a setup for tuning my rig and the next project as well.
Right now I am running with stock tune from the donor vehicle. Seems to be running ok. But I am wondering how long I can go before I should get it tuned.
A stock tune is probably going to be very safe, meaning it will run rich so you don't burn anything up or kill any sensors. That being said it's not going to offer the best economy or performance, but it should get you home and back fine if you are daily driving. If you are running a stage 1 or higher cam you probably are not going to benefit nearly as much as getting a good dyno tune, or access to someone that can street tune it, but at the end of the day I'd save a few hundred up and plan a visit to a good tuner.
The stock tune should be adequate for you to test drive and trouble shoot things as you find them as well, then the dyno tune is kind of like the icing on the cake!
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