77 C20 2WD Camper Special front lift options?

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bucket

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Hi guys, I realize this thread started with the front lift question, and it's also now covering front hubs (and I'm enjoying learning about that- wouldn't mind a 4x4 Camper Special one day:)!

I thought I'd run this wheel fitment by you guys. Sadly I can't test fit them, as they are a special order. I plan to use the same 305/70R16 BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/As (E Load Rating) as that red truck in the photo. That offset looks right to me, but you guys might know better?

The photo of the wheel doesn't represent its size/width, but the specs to the right is what I'm concerned about.

Thanks guys.


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When I get home from work, I can measure the backspace of the wheels I pictured earlier so you have something to go off of. I believe it was around 4.25" though.
 

bucket

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Well, I was kind of surprised. On my steel wagon wheels that I pictured before, the backspacing is right at 4.75". No wonder I could fit those tires with zero trimming needed.
 

jetdexter

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Well, I was kind of surprised. On my steel wagon wheels that I pictured before, the backspacing is right at 4.75". No wonder I could fit those tires with zero trimming needed.
Thanks for that! That sounds perfect then. With these being 4.25 I'll have just a touch more dish and outward stance, and that clearance with the wheels and tires should be perfect. Perhaps I'll order these things in the morning...

Thanks again
 

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They said it could be 4-5 weeks, but then the next day they told me to come on by and pick them up. These guys should do the trick for what I'm wanting. Pop my hubcaps in these guys, and I'll get a deep and meaty stance while keeping it vintage in nature.

Next week I'll be able to test fit them when I get back home.


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82BBC20

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Everything was ordered thru RockAuto.com, just selected my trucks info & chose the moog brand. Two tone color is not factory color, was resprayed many years ago!
 

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So I got he wheels and tires on this week, but I had to leave town again for work so I couldn't swap the front springs, or rear blocks.

I love how meaty it looks. The 305/70s are only 1-1/4" taller overall than my factory setup. With the stock ride height, they look bigger than that (too big).

The next (photoshop) photo shows a 1-1/2" lift front and rear. That's all I'm really wanting to achieve. I'm hopeful the Moog springs alone will give it to me, but I have the bags too, and I'll put them in at the same time (even if I just leave them at 10% and not use them - that way they will be there in case I want to use them with an overhead camper).

I have blocks to lift the rear, as I don't want to screw with a stiffer ride. But I might change my mind once I put a camper on it...

Thanks guys!

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jetdexter

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Hi guys, I'm out of town a couple weeks, but when I return home I plan to put the new Moog springs in. I've got a question (and I've read the threads here but didn't see this answer). I've never swapped springs on one of these, and hate working with springs and compressors in general :) While nearly everyone lowers the control arm the typical way, this guy did it backwards.

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While it looks crazy that he's working with one bare hand while holding his phone with the other, I kinda like the looks of the method. by lowering the arm from the inside, the geometry means that you can lower it far further, thus decompressing the spring entirely so that it will come out without compressing it. It makes way more sense to me- but since he's the only guy that I've seen do it this way I thought I'd ask you guys. Perhaps you can tell me why it's crazy.

Thanks!
 

bucket

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I've heard of people doing it that way. Personally, I don't care for it.
 

Ricko1966

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I've always just separated a ball joint and tie rod end. Run a chain through the center of the chain so it can get away. Lower the control arm NBD. Do you now how to seperate ball joints and tie rods,without a pickle fork and without destroying the boots?
 

78C10BigTen

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I've always just separated a ball joint and tie rod end. Run a chain through the center of the chain so it can get away. Lower the control arm NBD. Do you now how to seperate ball joints and tie rods,without a pickle fork and without destroying the boots?
Air hammer???
 

DoubleDingo

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I've always just separated a ball joint and tie rod end. Run a chain through the center of the chain so it can get away. Lower the control arm NBD. Do you now how to seperate ball joints and tie rods,without a pickle fork and without destroying the boots?
Spreader.
 

Ricko1966

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Air hammer???
Regular hammer,you just need to know how and where to hit them.Put some pressure up with a prybar on the tie rod hit the socket from the side hard with a hammer,the vibration pops them apart. Ball joints back the nuts off to their ends and again big hammer whack from the side. If they won't pop screw 2 bolts into a coupling nut put it between the 2 ball joint studs and unscrew the bolts from the coupling nut it will push the ball joints out. Grind the markings off the top of the bolts and use a big drill bit to put divots on the tops of the bolts so the don't walk off the ball joint studs. I'll see if I can a YouTube video if I do I'll post it here,check back. You have to hit them hard sometimes and git em more than once not tap tap,oh this doesn't work. It does its how I've done the literally decades. 99.9 effective. With just a hammer and pry bar the extra pressure of the prybar makes them pop easier,the spring acts as the pressure with ball joints . If they just won't pop use the 2 bolts for more presdure whacknthem again. Remember your hitting the socket from the side.
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DoubleDingo

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.....If they won't pop screw 2 bolts into a coupling nut put it between the 2 ball joint studs and unscrew the bolts from the coupling nut it will push the ball joints out.
Spreader...
 

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