6.0 Header Bolts

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chaosrob

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Getting ready to do the 6.0 swap in the 87 in the next couple of weeks and have read quite a bit about broken manifold bolts and the like. Since I am eliminating the manifolds in favor of headers I was curious which header bolts you guys/gals would recommend for this engine to both eliminate the broken bolt issue as well as limit the potential for leaking headers with the aluminum heads. TIA
 

bucket

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I don't believe that the bolts will be a problem with headers. I think the manifolds expand with heat much more, which puts the strain on the bolts. The problem is amplified by the short length of the bolts.
 

chaosrob

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Makes sense but I have always preferred manifolds over headers as re-torqueing header bolts was a staple of my youth. Anyone had any success with the locking bolts and headers?

Appreciate the input on the bolts Bucket, thank you for the response
I don't believe that the bolts will be a problem with headers. I think the manifolds expand with heat much more, which puts the strain on the bolts. The problem is amplified by the short length of the bolts.
 

bucket

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A good quality header gasket makes a big difference. With the copper or aluminum type, they only need retorqued after a few heat cylcles. Then maybe check them again after a few months of driving.
 

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A good quality header gasket makes a big difference. With the copper or aluminum type, they only need retorqued after a few heat cylcles. Then maybe check them again after a few months of driving.
Here it is... ^^^^

Seems some guy have nothing but grief with headers, and then there are guys like me who have never had issues, other than a re-torque or two in the first few months. I've had my headers rust through but never leak at the manifold.
 

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Back in the day, I used double header gaskets on each side and had no problems. Maybe today's gaskets are better.

Hooker side pipes using SBC and BBC in Corvettes.
 

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Just buy a good set of header bolts that are replacements for OEM and you will be fine. I think what causes the problem with them breaking is the dissimilar metals between the aluminum heads, steel bolts, and the metal of the headers. If you want to use precaution use some stainless header bolts and then some anti-seize. I also think there is some compound that GM puts on the bolts at the factor that is either anti-seize (which fouls) or maybe its a thread lock, to prevent the bolts from coming out... After all, it does not require a lot of torque for them to be at factory spec...
 

dcameron787

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I just did the lq4 swap last year and used the bolts that came with my headers. I have had zero issues with no leaks. I did use ac delco gasket instead of the gaskets tgatvcame with headers.
 

Jrgunn5150

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I'm just using Dorman replacements, they seem fine in my limited run time
 

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In my '74 C20 build project, I used the gaskets that came with my Hedman Ceramic Coated Hedders. My high nickel content 350 4BM was punched out .030 to 355. Less than 100 miles later I blew out huge sections of the gasket surface.

I chatted with a buddy who runs sub-10's in his '64 Chevelle and he recommended Remflex. Said bolt them on and forget it.

So I bought a set and sure enough, bolted them on and have never touched them since. I will never use anything else. Here is their catalog and a short video. It's nice when you find something that actually does everything they are advertised to do. http://catalog.remflex.com
 

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Buy bolts that want break.or snap.stainless steel.or special header bolts.but aluminum heads

I would use never seeze.on the treads and carefully torque the bolts.use the best header gaskets.

I would rather retorque the header bolts now and then.then having broken bolts.you may not be able to get out.
 

CSFJ

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Buy bolts that want break.or snap.stainless steel.or special header bolts.but aluminum heads

I would use never seeze.on the treads and carefully torque the bolts.use the best header gaskets.

I would rather retorque the header bolts now and then.then having broken bolts.you may not be able to get out.
Wisdom for the ages.
 

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Just get you some of the Stage 8 header bolts. They are more expensive but with the securing devices you can tighten them up to spec with the anti-seize and once you put the clips on they will stay very close to 100 % tightened.
 

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