4l80e conversion in 1985 suburban. What parts do I need?

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NickTransmissions

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Installed the transmission and drove the first time today. Either this shift tune is bad, or something else is off. This thing feels like a dog now, shift points are too low and worst of all, this thing shudders like a mother when the converter locks up in 4th gear.
Perform a driving line pressure test. Short shifts and TC shudder is likely low LP across the board, which is probably C3-driven. If LP is low, contact the company that man'ed or sold the controller for tech support, if you havent already done so.
 

txaggie

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Perform a driving line pressure test. Short shifts and TC shudder is likely low LP across the board, which is probably C3-driven. If LP is low, contact the company that man'ed or sold the controller for tech support, if you havent already done so.
Thanks Nick. It’s a Holley sniper trans controller and all the line pressure looks to be pretty similar.
Perform a driving line pressure test. Short shifts and TC shudder is likely low LP across the board, which is probably C3-driven. If LP is low, contact the company that man'ed or sold the controller for tech support, if you havent already done so.
What is “C3 driven?”
 

NickTransmissions

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Thanks Nick. It’s a Holley sniper trans controller and all the line pressure looks to be pretty similar.

What is “C3 driven?”
C3= communication, command and control.

What exactly are your line pressures for all range positions at idle and at stall?
 

txaggie

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C3= communication, command and control.

What exactly are your line pressures for all range positions at idle and at stall?
Found the issue. Shudder is most likely a burnt plug wire and dead cylinder:
 

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txaggie

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Perform a driving line pressure test. Short shifts and TC shudder is likely low LP across the board, which is probably C3-driven. If LP is low, contact the company that man'ed or sold the controller for tech support, if you havent already done so.
C3= communication, command and control.

What exactly are your line pressures for all range positions at idle and at stall?

Nick,

After we got the plug wire fixed, it drives pretty good. However the second gear shift is really hard and others are not. Also, after normal highway driving, this thing heats up to 210 ish with nothing being pulled and I have an extra Derale cooler in junction with our radiator cooler. Does this seem a bit high? The turbo 400 without pulling wouldn’t get above 180-190.

Today is hot though, 98 degrees.
 

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Nick,

After we got the plug wire fixed, it drives pretty good. However the second gear shift is really hard and others are not. Also, after normal highway driving, this thing heats up to 210 ish with nothing being pulled and I have an extra Derale cooler in junction with our radiator cooler. Does this seem a bit high? The turbo 400 without pulling wouldn’t get above 180-190.

Today is hot though, 98 degrees.
Just went and drove the crap out of it. Trans temp warmed up to 205 and then cooled back to 198.

I’ll take this to my buddy this next week and get it tuned (engine and trans).
 

NickTransmissions

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Nick,

After we got the plug wire fixed, it drives pretty good. However the second gear shift is really hard and others are not. Also, after normal highway driving, this thing heats up to 210 ish with nothing being pulled and I have an extra Derale cooler in junction with our radiator cooler. Does this seem a bit high? The turbo 400 without pulling wouldn’t get above 180-190.

Today is hot though, 98 degrees.
Try to keep temps at 175-180 or so for optimum performance if running conventional Dex-Merc. Check for any restrictions in the system, in the lines, and coolers. As far as the harsh 1-2 shift, that could be overly agreessive mechanical calibration such as 1-2 feed orifice drilled too large for the converter stall.
 

txaggie

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Try to keep temps at 175-180 or so for optimum performance if running conventional Dex-Merc. Check for any restrictions in the system, in the lines, and coolers. As far as the harsh 1-2 shift, that could be overly agreessive mechanical calibration such as 1-2 feed orifice drilled too large for the converter stall.
Thanks. We are running BG full synthetic ATF because we sell it in bulk in our shop. After driving it again today, it appears that it stays at around 170-190 while driving on the highway at lockup. When I get in stop and go traffic (20-40 mph), this is when the temp climbs. Once I stop all the way, it starts to cool back down. Maybe our 1900 stall is hitting the sweet spot at this speed and I’m just slipping?

I’m gonna take this thing to get the Holley Sniper programmer tuned for both engine and trans. Maybe this will help?
 

NickTransmissions

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I’m gonna take this thing to get the Holley Sniper programmer tuned for both engine and trans. Maybe this will help?
That should definitely help and make the whole powertrain perform better. The TC produces most of the heat that permiates through the transmission so tuning should help bring the heat down a bit. Plus full synthetic is perfectly fine up to about 220 or so, perhaps a bit beyond.
 

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IDK if this will assist anyone, so here goes:

Technical Troubleshooting:

https://gear-report.com/wp-content/...ment_7_4L80E-Transmission_Troubleshooting.pdf

*** SEE PAGE 209 for Temp requirements and sensor resistance values.

Make certain the sensor resistance value is correct before you consider repairs.
If you have any fluid in the connector, the readings will also be incorrect.
If the connector o-ring is leaking in the case or the seals on the wires inside are missing or leaking, fluid shorts out the connector.

Reverse Pressure testing:

https://www.transmissiondigest.com/diagnosing-the-elusive-no-reverse-with-the-4l80-e/
_________________________________________________________________

Spoke with the owner of Compushift, regarding my Comp 2 Stand-a-lone controller.

After installing a 4 ft long high pressure brake line to the pressure port on my 4L80-E, using my compression test gage from OTC, (280 psi instead of buying a separate 400 psi transmission gauge), my rebuild confirms pressures:

70-90 in OD
70-90 in D
90-100 in 2
120 in 1

120 in Rev
@45 in Rev Foot to the floor, NO MORE THAN 2 Seconds.

My engine L31 Roller Stage 4 Sum-8800 cam
Mild Ported to shape of in-ex gaskets 062 heads.
1-5/8"primaries to 2-1/2"c collector's.
2000 RPM stall, Billet converter, (pump and back plate), single Kevlar friction.

4L80-E, roller-ized, Sonnax Loaded, 99' transmission.

*** Required additional Direct Drum machining .041" from the bottom of the drum.***

The OEM Drum did NOT meet the OEM drum spec in the 1999 transmission.
The ASTG Manual did not put the cut specifying this dimension in the assembly instruction, where you would expect it, during the inspection process.

It is much further in the back of the manual.

You MUST verify the Direct Drum specs, before you drive yourself up the wall rebuilding and causing spacing issues.

The Specialty Drum Upgrade from a famous engineering company, charged me $280 for as custom HD drum AND IT DID NOT ARRIVE MACHINED CORRECTLY EITHER.

(Nor would they accept a return to correct it. No Names).

My Re-program, using a completely new Sonnax Valve body, with Rev Over-run valve mod and all the additional Sonnax Pressure/Valve Mods, had the "plug" blow out, causing no reverse.

*** Remember: This ONLY APPLIES TO MY REPROGRAM 4L80-E and may not apply to YOUR Re-Program. Verify plugging as per your reprogram engineer.

The solution was to tap the return port under the valve body, so the plug was no longer required. This meant custom grinding a narrow shaft, tap so it would not break the surrounding case during the NPT plug process. You might not want to use this tap for steel afterwards, because of the strength of the tap afterwards.

The Tap Plug works so the leak or plug blow-out from the Direct Drum is not possible.

There's a bunch of other check ball requirements that can get messed up or confused between re-programmer designs., so I will not go further.
_____________________________________________________________

With all this in mind:

Compushift advised NO ADVANCED settings should be nessesary.
(Your controller may differ).
Base settings should be followed.

The following CS instructions may work for other shift controller's, however confirm with your controller expert, before using this data on your application.

1) Shift Speed: 14-15%
Higher the percentage, the LATER you will shift.

2) Pressure Adjustment: A= 12-14%
Higher the percentage, the faster you will shift.

3) Down Shift: 80-85%
When you Raise the %, Downshift is QUICKER.
85% being max, with a higher HP Stage 4-5 roller camshaft, 5.7L V-8.
Check with your expert before guessing. Every build is different.

No Advanced Settings should bve adjusted.

If you have messed with any base settings, it is strongly advised to reset to factory settings and use the "B" settings as a reset to base refrence.
Any one of these could cause increased heat, when out of specified limits.

Verify your Transmission cooler is not clogged or blocked.

Many coolers get blocked and failure to replace a blocked cooler after rebuild, is your responsibility, not your rebuilder's.

Thousands of transmissions are ruined every month due to clogged cooler.

When in doubt, over-size, add a fan, and throw the old one out.

Now you can start diagnostics and tuning, knowing your harness is not shorted and your cooler is not the issue.

Hope this helps..
 

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