383 Vortec/TBI Build Thread

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Derick C.

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Right on. Lookin like you should have that in the truck soon
 

Honky Kong jr

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Cool, I believe that would of been quite ugly if you wouldn't have opened them up.
 

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Right on. Lookin like you should have that in the truck soon

Thanks - Damn, I hope so. Putting the engine together is easy and low stress since I still have a running truck. Gotta make it not running for a while sooner or later though. I coach my kids' swim team and that starts up in about a week, going to cut into my shop time......
 

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Cool, I believe that would of been quite ugly if you wouldn't have opened them up.

Yeah, I'm not sure if they were touching or not, but they were damn close. I'm sure there would have been problems, possibly right at first start up.
 

Daveo91Burb

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Does anyone know the torque specs for that lifter hold down ("spider") plate? Loctite? Red or blue? The legs of that plate have to deform quite a bit to get the bolts to snug up. I was just going to snug em up with red loctite unless I hear different.
 

Daveo91Burb

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Built a run stand! I decided I wanted to test run my 383 before I go to the trouble of pulling the running 350 out of the burb and putting this one in. I'm not much of a welder so I built it out of wood and a 4-wheel moving dolly from HF. There's an oil pressure gauge that I hadn't installed yet in the first two pics.

Borrowed the q-jet and HEI distributor from my Vette to run it. Also borrowed the starter out of the Burb. Spent most of the day (I get Columbus day off) putting it together and getting the engine on it and plumbed/wired/oil primed/cleaning up a big mess because I forgot to plug one of the oil cooler lines/etc. Finally got to a place where I could at least start trying to crank it with the starter but ran into two problems.

1. Delco reman starter will not crank engine with the plugs in. It spins fine with plugs out, but no go when there's full compression. Works fine in the 350 in the burb, but that's stock compression. Tried different batteries, full-charge, and different cables/connections. Do I need a different starter? Suggestions? I was thinking about a delco for a 454, but not sure there's even any difference. Trying to stay away from the junky mini starters you see on e-bay and Jegs, etc.

2. New ATP Flex plate is wobbling. I could see it when I was cranking with the plugs out. I took it off and set it on a table - in one spot it's about 1/8" out. Doesn't seem like a good thing. Common for them to be warped? Damn this is my second Amazon flex plate, too.... Could the warpage cause my problem in #1? Doesn't seem like it, but thought I'd ask...

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crazy4offroad

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This is a bad idea, I hope you used decking screws. Do not rev that thing up, I imagine it would torque right off there. You may need to get a high-torque starter, sorry I dont have any suggestions.
 

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2. New ATP Flex plate is wobbling. I could see it when I was cranking with the plugs out. I took it off and set it on a table - in one spot it's about 1/8" out. Doesn't seem like a good thing. Common for them to be warped? Damn this is my second Amazon flex plate, too.... Could the warpage cause my problem in #1? Doesn't seem like it, but thought I'd ask...

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It's a "flexplate", lol. Don't worry about it that's normal, when the converter is bolted up it's solid and straight. You probably need a high torque starter..
 

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starter for 94 and up trucks with gear reduction will work. 2003 big block suburban with 4l80e is a common replacement starter that is a factory mini starter. I almost bough one for mine, but at $125, decided to stay with the cheapo $50 unit for a stock tbi motor
 

4WDKC

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1. is this the stock flexplate for the engine? Newer trucks use different tooth count.
2. SFI flex plates usually arent much more and worth the protection.
 

yevgenievich

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usually 168 tooth for mating with 4l80e
 

Daveo91Burb

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This is a bad idea, I hope you used decking screws. Do not rev that thing up, I imagine it would torque right off there. You may need to get a high-torque starter, sorry I dont have any suggestions.

Yeah I won’t be revving it up. Just built it to be able to start it outside of the rig. And I don’t need to break in a cam since it’s a roller. Those white 4x4s are thru bolted with 1/2” bolts to motor mounts and the base (some of the pics were taken before it was done) and the base is rock solid - it ain’t going anywhere with what I’ll do to it. I suppose if I got aggressive the while assembly could lift up but I won’t be doing that - assuming I can ever get the damn thing started.


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Daveo91Burb

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It's a "flexplate", lol. Don't worry about it that's normal, when the converter is bolted up it's solid and straight. You probably need a high torque starter..

Cool. This flexplate stuff is new to me - my only other engine job was my vette and it has a manual. I think I’d be worried if a flywheel had that much wobble! Makes sense that the six bolts to the TC will straighten it out.


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Honky Kong jr

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This is a bad idea, I hope you used decking screws. Do not rev that thing up, I imagine it would torque right off there. You may need to get a high-torque starter, sorry I dont have any suggestions.
I'm sure you've seen the goof balls on YouTube firing up big blocks on engine stands and whacking the throttle. At least his is low to the ground.
 

Daveo91Burb

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starter for 94 and up trucks with gear reduction will work. 2003 big block suburban with 4l80e is a common replacement starter that is a factory mini starter. I almost bough one for mine, but at $125, decided to stay with the cheapo $50 unit for a stock tbi motor

Yeah I saw that one when I was looking around but like you was thrown off by the price. (Price I was seeing was even a bit higher IIRC). I’d still like to go with an OEM style direct drive - would an OEM from a 454 TBI offer any advantage? I looked on rock auto and part numbers are different. Yes it’s a 168 tooth flex plate.


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