305 build advice. Any and all advice is appreciated!

[shiftpro]

It looks like this is pretty much settled, but I will say that the compression ratio for the LE9 you have should be 9.5:1. Something like that. I’m sure you’d see a poop compression ratio in the 8s or even 7s with some of the many throwaway heads that came on the 305, but that wouldn’t be the case on the LE9, L69, or LB9 running 416 or 601 heads.

I think the value of the 305 really comes into play if it’s what you already have, either a healthy engine or a good rebuild candidate. Anything you can get out of a 305, the 350 can do the same and perform better, but I don’t think the 305 is anything to scoff at if you bored and stroked it out to 334, ported and polished the heads to 1.94/1.6 (2.02 is probably a stretch), upgraded the cam, new valve springs, aluminum intake (more for ease of assembly than performance), headers, carb recalibration, and went with a traditional HEI with a hotter coil and an emphasis on being able to recalibrate the spark curve in order to get around the 305’s inherent timing sensitivities. I think you could have a truck that had around 375 RWHP, give or take.

400 RWHP is probably the absolute max that’s attainable on a normally driveable, pump gas 305, and that 400 is much easier and a good bit cheaper to attain with a 350/383 stroker. That’s what I’d do.

Big blocks are great, I love them, and in the proper roles, I’d build them, but you talked about being budget friendliness in your initial post. Initially considering the 305 makes me think you want maybe not a daily but a regular driver. The 305 is as economical as they come for old school V8s. Full-size passenger cars with the 305 can get MPG numbers in the low 20s if that tells you anything. The 396, 454, or whatever isn’t that. Maybe the gap between a built 350/383 and a run of the mill, unchoked 454 isn’t huge, but expect half the economy you’re getting with the 305, assuming you average around 17-19 mpg right now, hope for a hair better, and prepare for slightly worse. My other question is would you not be tempted to add onto the 454’s base performance capabilities? I know I would be. I don’t know what kind of decrease in economy that would entail, and it may not be much, but if you’re young, just starting out, have a family, these are factors worth considering. I guess it depends on what you plan to do with the truck and how often you plan to use it.

Your hp figures are probably close, but you're not mentioning torque, which is what we NEED! A 400 hp 305 is going to produce that power at high rpm,
forget about low rpm torque.
Also you are talking about RWHP... in which gear? Do we lose or gain tq/hp at the rear wheel? There must be a calculation used to determine engine
hp when a vehicle dyno is used, compared to an engine dyno. It leaves me confused..

 

[shiftpro]

It looks like this is pretty much settled, but I will say that the compression ratio for the LE9 you have should be 9.5:1. Something like that. I’m sure you’d see a poop compression ratio in the 8s or even 7s with some of the many throwaway heads that came on the 305, but that wouldn’t be the case on the LE9, L69, or LB9 running 416 or 601 heads.

I think the value of the 305 really comes into play if it’s what you already have, either a healthy engine or a good rebuild candidate. Anything you can get out of a 305, the 350 can do the same and perform better, but I don’t think the 305 is anything to scoff at if you bored and stroked it out to 334, ported and polished the heads to 1.94/1.6 (2.02 is probably a stretch), upgraded the cam, new valve springs, aluminum intake (more for ease of assembly than performance), headers, carb recalibration, and went with a traditional HEI with a hotter coil and an emphasis on being able to recalibrate the spark curve in order to get around the 305’s inherent timing sensitivities. I think you could have a truck that had around 375 RWHP, give or take.

400 RWHP is probably the absolute max that’s attainable on a normally driveable, pump gas 305, and that 400 is much easier and a good bit cheaper to attain with a 350/383 stroker. That’s what I’d do.

Big blocks are great, I love them, and in the proper roles, I’d build them, but you talked about being budget friendliness in your initial post. Initially considering the 305 makes me think you want maybe not a daily but a regular driver. The 305 is as economical as they come for old school V8s. Full-size passenger cars with the 305 can get MPG numbers in the low 20s if that tells you anything. The 396, 454, or whatever isn’t that. Maybe the gap between a built 350/383 and a run of the mill, unchoked 454 isn’t huge, but expect half the economy you’re getting with the 305, assuming you average around 17-19 mpg right now, hope for a hair better, and prepare for slightly worse. My other question is would you not be tempted to add onto the 454’s base performance capabilities? I know I would be. I don’t know what kind of decrease in economy that would entail, and it may not be much, but if you’re young, just starting out, have a family, these are factors worth considering. I guess it depends on what you plan to do with the truck and how often you plan to use it.

I'm just guessing that a 305,334 stroker crank might cost more than a 350/383 stroked crank... they are just not as common as a 350 stroker.

And a tip for everyone... keep a close eye on on the used market for stroker kits never installed. Many good parts laying around collecting dust that come up for sale.. cash in on someone else's life changing event. I have bought a BB and sb stroker kits, pistons and all for huge savings. Parts never used eventually need a new home..

 

[gotyourgoat]

Yesir it is

Have I ever lied to you gyg?

Well, I seem to remember something about a marker light a while back. Oh yeah I have one, I have one. And isn't it convenient the shop cancelled your appointment. Hmmm.

 

[FireTruck1984]

Friends don't let friends rebuild 305s. You can throw all the parts at you want but nothing replaces... displacement.
They never should have put these engines in trucks.
At least Eric's truck is a 2x, but still not worth it imo.

Sorry I know it's not what you want to hear...

I agree, don’t build that tired old 305. It will nickel and dime you to the poor house. Get a nice 350 crate engine, Chevrolet Performance has some

Alright you all have convinced me. I will plan on buying a 350 and having it rebuilt. It'll cost about the same as the 305, but will be much better.

why buy an old 350 and have it rebuilt when you can get a New 350 HO crate engine with all the HP you need and plenty of torque? Chevrolet Performance 350 HO Turnkey crate engine is a good place to start.

 

[78C10BigTen]

Don't stop there.....FOUR NINETY SIX.....

Infinite possibilities!! Go big or go home! 502 with a blower!

 

[78C10BigTen]

Yup that's what I did

You must be registered for see images attach

On the garage floor.

You won't regret it!



Here come the gratuitous burnouts

Everybody has a big block but me

 

[Ewhitaker0020]

why buy an old 350 and have it rebuilt when you can get a New 350 HO crate engine with all the HP you need and plenty of torque? Chevrolet Performance 350 HO Turnkey crate engine is a good place to start.

Because I don't have $3500 to spend on putting a decent engine in this truck. I can buy an old 350 for around $200 and have it rebuilt for around $1,500-1,800 at a local shop. I don't need an engine with 400 HP (not just yet anyways). I'm just looking for a 350 engine that will give the old girl some get up and go. And be reliable of course.

 

[82sbshortbed]

Well, I seem to remember something about a marker light a while back. Oh yeah I have one, I have one. And isn't it convenient the shop cancelled your appointment. Hmmm.

 

[78C10BigTen]

Now now boys be nice lol

 

[gotyourgoat]

Would like to do this same thing as the OP. Swap old smokey for a 350. A crate engine or even a whole rebuild is further than I want to go at the moment. Just looking for a usable as it sits engine.

Don't get me wrong a ton of power would be great but it's just not right for this bare bones no option truck. Certainly wouldn't want to have to put 'power breaks' on it. https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/power-brakes.25257/

 

[78C10BigTen]

Would like to do this same thing as the OP. Swap old smokey for a 350. A crate engine or even a whole rebuild is further than I want to go at the moment. Just looking for a usable as it sits engine.

Don't get me wrong a ton of power would be great but it's just not right for this bare bones no option truck. Certainly wouldn't want to have to put 'power breaks' on it. https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/power-brakes.25257/

Bare bones, no options+BBC= SLEEPER!!!

 

[shiftpro]

Because I don't have $3500 to spend on putting a decent engine in this truck. I can buy an old 350 for around $200 and have it rebuilt for around $1,500-1,800 at a local shop. I don't need an engine with 400 HP (not just yet anyways). I'm just looking for a 350 engine that will give the old girl some get up and go. And be reliable of course.

Consider this...
I was kind of going in this direction, dropped a few hints. Since you're not in a burning hurry, the truck still runs and you're not stranded, so take your time shopping and planning. A rebuild can cost much less than a crate engine! But you kinda need some cheap parts... I've always been sold on strokers, love the extra torque! Now looking at a full rebuild, if the crank needs to be reground just buy a stoker. It's only a little more cash but when buying a full kit, meaning pistons, rings, rods, bearings and balancer you can come out ahead.
You know of you grind the crank (because it needs it) then good chances all the rods should be resized too. Again, paying for labor. Stroker kits come balanced so there you go.
Ok if we're considering buying a rotating assembly (that stroker kit I'm trying to sell you) then all you need is a decent (not cracked) block and choose your heads. This is often less risk than buying an old engine that needs to be rebuilt as you can actually inspect the bare block. You will never know what shape the block is if you buy a complete engine needing rebuilding.
Talk with your machine shop and maybe they have just what you need. Search EBAY and Craig's List for parts. It's very feasible you can find a bare block for a song, a discounted stroker kit and heads...? Well lots of choices there... find small chamber heads or best bet, Vortex heads. Even aftermarket cast vortex style heads flow like greased lightening and are easy on the pocket book.

 

[hoagster]

Lmao! Who's Eric? I'm asking because my name is Eric, but I don't think you knew that. I just can't afford anything that expensive right now. I plan on finding a used 350 or bigger engine that I can put on an engine stand and just work on it over a years time, slowly saving up money to buy all the parts.

You need one of these, a 350, used needs to be gone thru but I pulled it after driving the truck into the garage. Look for one in your area there are probably a ton of them. Look in Craigslist or some such, or a pick and pull. I live to far away to make it cheap. Think about what your going to do with it, research add on's like the rest of the answers before me. mild cam, intake to match etc.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Ewhitaker0020]

Consider this...
I was kind of going in this direction, dropped a few hints. Since you're not in a burning hurry, the truck still runs and you're not stranded, so take your time shopping and planning. A rebuild can cost much less than a crate engine! But you kinda need some cheap parts... I've always been sold on strokers, love the extra torque! Now looking at a full rebuild, if the crank needs to be reground just buy a stoker. It's only a little more cash but when buying a full kit, meaning pistons, rings, rods, bearings and balancer you can come out ahead.
You know of you grind the crank (because it needs it) then good chances all the rods should be resized too. Again, paying for labor. Stroker kits come balanced so there you go.
Ok if we're considering buying a rotating assembly (that stroker kit I'm trying to sell you) then all you need is a decent (not cracked) block and choose your heads. This is often less risk than buying an old engine that needs to be rebuilt as you can actually inspect the bare block. You will never know what shape the block is if you buy a complete engine needing rebuilding.
Talk with your machine shop and maybe they have just what you need. Search EBAY and Craig's List for parts. It's very feasible you can find a bare block for a song, a discounted stroker kit and heads...? Well lots of choices there... find small chamber heads or best bet, Vortex heads. Even aftermarket cast vortex style heads flow like greased lightening and are easy on the pocket book.

Hmm... I wouldn't mind having a 383 stroker. I looked on eBay and I like how the stroker kit comes with everything I would need parts wise.

So... If I found a used 350, bought a stoker kit and some vortec heads, a camshaft, lifters, and rockers, I would pretty much have all the parts I needed right? Then I would need to take everything to the machine shop and ask them to machine the block for the stroker kit.

Could I even still use my original 700r4 transmission with my new 383 stroker engine? Or would it snap my transmission and rear end in half?

 

[gotyourgoat]

Bare bones, no options+BBC= SLEEPER!!!

Also a combination for the dreaded 'stang virus. Common symptoms include wildly flying into curbs, crowds and poles.