TBI Harness Pigtails

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mrdap

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Hello Team,
Wondering if anyone has an old TBI under hood harness laying around they'd be willing to sell some pigtails from.
I've had some problems with rodents and some of the pigtails have been chewed.
I was hoping to find a couple of pigtails if someone would be willing to sell.
I would be willing to buy the whole harness if the price is right, but I'm not looking for a complete pristine harness.
For starters I need the pigtail going to the MAP sensor, and the temperature sensor at the thermostat.
Thanks
DAP
 

fast 99

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Some of the more common connectors are available new, they are expensive considering what they are. There is a lot of commonalities between GM lines, cars are the same, used?
 

mrdap

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Right,, point understood.
If I have to I'll do it.
Buy all the individual connectors the pins, wires, crimp tools, etc.

My plan was just to get some matching pigtails, simply splice them in.
They will look perfectly original and stock, with the correct wire colorings and stripes, and it's a simple job to just splice the wires, use shrink sleeve and hide it under the harness wrap tape.
 

CalSgt

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Do any of the 88-94 (GMT400) connectors work? There’s a lot more of that body truck in the junkyards around here and it’s basically the same set up IIRC.
 

mrdap

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I don't know offhand but if they are TBIs they might match up
Thanks.
 

RanchWelder

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Search Rock Auto for your year and make.
Choose your engine size.
Click on the plus (+) drop down for "Electrical Connectors".

Buy new OEM quality Pig Tails, with the wires already crimped inside the connectors and splice with quality crimpers and crimps.

Standard Motor Products, ACDelco, Delphi, tend to be better quality wire and stronger plastic at the connections. Cheaper stuff tends to break with cheaper plastic and sub-sized wires.

This works especially well when you are not building a show car where the harness must be detailed to perfection and the crimp tools would be required at ever connector.

Buy the WorkPro, HF or Ideal long handle crimper:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CBJK1GVC/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009QEN5ZS/

These water tight heat shrink but connectors work great.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09Z2RGWWT/

They are very water tight, if you heat them with a HF heat gun, portable soldering gas powered iron or carefully use a cig lighter.

The notch in the crimpers works great, if you crimp one side one way and roll 180 degrees for the other side. The rounded area in front or behind the notch, can be used to side crush the crimp a second time, when rotating 90 degrees from the first crimp.

This process makes for very reliable but splices.
Try not to mutilate the plastic shrink to bad on the second sideways crimp.
If you do so, accidentally on your first few, cut and splice again or slide the added shrink tubing over the crimp (which you remembered to slide over one wire before staring the crimps), and call it a day.

I like to slide a small diameter shrink wrapper over the wires, hide the crimp and reinforce the splices. Sometimes I sue several sizes and layers of extra shrink wrap, for strong water and mud resistant splices.

If you are splicing and intend to use a wire shroud corrugated slip cover or the modern flex mesh style covers, try to space your crimps so they do not end up all in the same spot. No bunching.
This works at the injector connector splices, MAP connector, TPS, etc.

Every single connector on my TBI engine harness was swapped with quality pigtails and the tools and crimps I have suggested here.
Including the fuel pump harness and the O2 sensors.

My engine and my electrical system, with the upgrades I have made to grounds, have proven extremely reliable, without having to buy a single Weatherpack HQ crimper.

Let ACDelco and Standard Motor products buy them for you.


Hope this helps.
 

mrdap

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Thanks for all the suggestions!
 

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