Exhaust replacement- anyone do it without welding?

[ChuckN]

My turbo mufflers are leaking and blown out. I don’t have access to a welder, and have yet to learn (on my list)

There’s lots like Flowmaster American Thunder, etc. I know most people suggest welding the joints, but anyone had any luck with kits like this with just the “slip on and clamp” method? Thanks in advance.

It’s entirely possible that just going to a shop and having one installed custom would be similar in price, but thought I’d ask here first. Thanks in advance.

Chad

 

[hogdaddy]

Headers?

 

[75gmck25]

I used a 2 1/4” manifold-back exhaust kit from Summit, two Magnaflow mufflers, and a Summit H-pipe kit. All the clamps mean it doesn’t look very pretty, but overall there were no issues.

The mufflers did seem to have slightly oversized flanges that didn’t clamp down well on the 2 1/4” exhaust pipes, so I switched to band clamps that held and sealed better. The issue was that with the tailpipes running out to the sides the weight of the pipes tended to turn the entire system from the mufflers back. The band clamps were much better holding it in place than the standard clamps.

 

[Turbo4whl]

You can use exhaust lap joint band clamps instead of "U" clamps. You coat the inside of the clamp with anti-seize so the metal will slide and tighten up well. Both ends of the pipe need to be straight where the clamp is mounted. If the pipe coming out of the connection takes a bend you must use a "U" clamp.

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[ChuckN]

Headers?

Yep

 

[ChuckN]

I used a 2 1/4” manifold-back exhaust kit from Summit, two Magnaflow mufflers, and a Summit H-pipe kit. All the clamps mean it doesn’t look very pretty, but overall there were no issues.

The mufflers did seem to have slightly oversized flanges that didn’t clamp down well on the 2 1/4” exhaust pipes, so I switched to band clamps that held and sealed better. The issue was that with the tailpipes running out to the sides the weight of the pipes tended to turn the entire system from the mufflers back. The band clamps were much better holding it in place than the standard clamps.

Good to know. I’ve heard good stuff about the band clamps.

 

[ChuckN]

You can use exhaust lap joint band clamps instead of "U" clamps. You coat the inside of the clamp with anti-seize so the metal will slide and tighten up well. Both ends of the pipe need to be straight where the clamp is mounted. If the pipe coming out of the connection takes a bend you must use a "U" clamp.

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Cool. Good info on the anti seize!

 

[ChuckN]

Headers?

Yep, so I’ll just need to get the adapters for the headers, 3”.

 

[Grit dog]

Are you replacing the whole exhaust system or just the mufflers?
Clamping the whole system together would get a bit busy and may have to get a little more creative with attaching mounts to the truck.
However band clamps work great. Best part is they’re not “semi permanent” like traditional exhaust clamps yet hold just as good maybe better. And they don’t deform the pipes. You can slip fit bell and spigot connections or just butt 2 pieces together and they work equally as well imo.
But their $20 ea giver take so depending what you’re planning to do, you could rack up a good portion of what it would cost to weld.
On the flip side, if a vehicle is a “project vehicle” ie not completed or good chance of needing to do major drivetrain or chassis work in the near future, turning the exhaust into a 1 piece fully welded masterpiece is a mistake as you could reasonably have to cut it apart to perform other repairs, like swapping a transmission or ….

 

[ChuckN]

Are you replacing the whole exhaust system or just the mufflers?
Clamping the whole system together would get a bit busy and may have to get a little more creative with attaching mounts to the truck.
However band clamps work great. Best part is they’re not “semi permanent” like traditional exhaust clamps yet hold just as good maybe better. And they don’t deform the pipes. You can slip fit bell and spigot connections or just butt 2 pieces together and they work equally as well imo.
But their $20 ea giver take so depending what you’re planning to do, you could rack up a good portion of what it would cost to weld.
On the flip side, if a vehicle is a “project vehicle” ie not completed or good chance of needing to do major drivetrain or chassis work in the near future, turning the exhaust into a 1 piece fully welded masterpiece is a mistake as you could reasonably have to cut it apart to perform other repairs, like swapping a transmission or ….

Thanks for that input. As of now, it’s a running/ driving project.

One thing I remembered, that is swaying me toward a shop custom built system, is that I’ve decided I’m going to use an aftermarket trans crossmember with the clearance to tuck the exhaust up in for when it is lowered. I’d guess that all of the pre-fab stuff is bent lower to clear the stock trans crossmember. That would be just dumb of me to do.

Apparently, after you do a 4/6 drop on these things, it’s really tight under there if you have to do a roadside repair.

 

[Grit dog]

Thanks for that input. As of now, it’s a running/ driving project.

One thing I remembered, that is swaying me toward a shop custom built system, is that I’ve decided I’m going to use an aftermarket trans crossmember with the clearance to tuck the exhaust up in for when it is lowered. I’d guess that all of the pre-fab stuff is bent lower to clear the stock trans crossmember. That would be just dumb of me to do.

Apparently, after you do a 4/6 drop on these things, it’s really tight under there if you have to do a roadside repair.

Cure all your problems in one fell swoop for only $307…

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That’s really like only $150 if you donate the crossmember money you won’t need!




(Seriously…. This is about 69% of the reason I even want a 2wd squarebody…so I have a good place to hang a pair of these!)

 

[ChuckN]

Cure all your problems in one fell swoop for only $307…



That’s really like only $150 if you donate the crossmember money you won’t need!




(Seriously…. This is about 69% of the reason I even want a 2wd squarebody…so I have a good place to hang a pair of these!)

You’re speaking my language! If I could do it right and make it look good, I’d find a way to pull that off. I’ve always wanted a set of sidepipes since my dad had them on the ‘68 Vette (he ordered them from the dealership, but they weren’t factory. I think they were actually for a ‘69)

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For the life of me, I think the only vehicles that can rock them are ‘70s Boogie Vans these days.

 

[hogdaddy]

Which headers are you using? I installed the 2 1/2" Flowmaster kit on my 86. Fit was good but depending on which headers. I had to cut & shorten, re-weld the pipe in the middle that goes over the crossmember on DS.

 

[ChuckN]

Which headers are you using? I installed the 2 1/2" Flowmaster kit on my 86. Fit was good but depending on which headers. I had to cut & shorten, re-weld the pipe in the middle that goes over the crossmember on DS.

That’s a great question, not sure of the headers. They are long tube, and have 3 inch collectors. Beyond that, I have no idea. Is there a standardization for long tube headers? Probably not?ha.

 

[hogdaddy]

That’s a great question, not sure of the headers. They are long tube, and have 3 inch collectors. Beyond that, I have no idea. Is there a standardization for long tube headers? Probably not?ha.

I used Doug's ceramic coated Tri-Y.
In reviews, it says headman headers fit but another guy did what I did and shortened crossmember piece.

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