What have you done to your square lately??

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Bextreme04

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Eric
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1980
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K25
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350-4bbl
Yeah, you need to start a build thread for it. I didn't realize your truck had such a great paint and interior color combo.

I'm usually not a huge fan of black, but I really like this one. It is originally Midnight Black Metallic/ Mystic Silver Metallic deluxe two-tone on the exterior, but someone repainted it at some point and did a bad job of it so the clear is fully pealing off and all the metallic is gone. The roof was originally painted silver as well, but they painted it black in the respray.

The unique part is the interior, which is a two year only option for 79-80. Those years could only have two-tone interiors with certain combinations of exterior colors and they were always a combo of Mystic(White) and a second color like Gray, Blue, Or camel. It seems like most trucks got single color interiors since I've never seen another truck with the two-tone mystic interior.

I'm still cleaning out the shop to make room for the project, but I'll get the build thread started in the next few days.
 

Grit dog

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454
Oh and so I finally got back to the cab! still stripping. which begs a question to @Grit dog I'm ready to lay down some DTM primer from Tamco, but because of time I have layed a layer of rattle can rustolem everywhere I stripped it down to the metal. Any words of wisdom!

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Given that’s on the cab floor, I wouldn’t really worry about it.
Check the paint is bonded well to the metal and if it is, I’d scuff it and prime over it. Or just scuff and paint.
Don’t worry about the primer sticking to the rust oleum, make sure the rust oleum is stuck to the metal,IMO.
Fwiw, I’ve checked the “bond” of the primer to the 2 types of existing primer, existing paint, bare metal, slightly rusty metal, previously painted unprepped areas and it all appears to stick well.
Got a bunch of overspray on the old undercoating that was just washed clean and it sticks to that as well.

If this is a truck that the floor boards may get soaked wet forever again with wet carpet or whatever, I’d consider a quick sand back to mostly bare metal just so I wasn’t relying on $4 a can paint to stick to bare metal, but most likely I’d not even waste much primer inside the cab and just shoot it with top coat.

Paint will stick to properly prepped paint, have painted a few vehicles without using any primer save for covering bare metal or as filler.
 

RedBeard_83

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Custom deluxe
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Sway bar arrived yesterday from cpp. And ordered my transmission this morning . a stage 2 700r4 from patriot transmissions out of Ocala FL. That's only 2 hours from me so rather than pay to have it shipped , I will just got pick it up and drop my core off in the process.
 
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bucket

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I'm usually not a huge fan of black, but I really like this one. It is originally Midnight Black Metallic/ Mystic Silver Metallic deluxe two-tone on the exterior, but someone repainted it at some point and did a bad job of it so the clear is fully pealing off and all the metallic is gone. The roof was originally painted silver as well, but they painted it black in the respray.

The unique part is the interior, which is a two year only option for 79-80. Those years could only have two-tone interiors with certain combinations of exterior colors and they were always a combo of Mystic(White) and a second color like Gray, Blue, Or camel. It seems like most trucks got single color interiors since I've never seen another truck with the two-tone mystic interior.

I'm still cleaning out the shop to make room for the project, but I'll get the build thread started in the next few days.

Yep, I've always liked the Mystic interiors. I've seen two of the gray/white like yours, one was black and silver, the other was charcoal and silver.
 

TotalyHucked

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Welp, got my engine figured out. Noid light showed the injector was firing, so my heart sank a little lower. Pulled the VC off and first thing I see is the intake rocker’s bolt is higher up than the rest. Thing was flopping in the wind, not tight at all [emoji2357][emoji2357] Must’ve missed that one while torquing them.

Took the rocker off to inspect, same with the pushrod. Al looked perfect. Threw it all back together, torqued it up, VC and harness back on. Fired up and revved smooth. Took it for a drive and all is right with the world [emoji119][emoji119] Tuner comes back tomorrow. I’ve driven around work twice now and she’s happy. Even at 1/4 throttle, she’s peppy. Can’t wait to bury my foot


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hoagster

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Given that’s on the cab floor, I wouldn’t really worry about it.
Check the paint is bonded well to the metal and if it is, I’d scuff it and prime over it. Or just scuff and paint.
Don’t worry about the primer sticking to the rust oleum, make sure the rust oleum is stuck to the metal,IMO.
Fwiw, I’ve checked the “bond” of the primer to the 2 types of existing primer, existing paint, bare metal, slightly rusty metal, previously painted unprepped areas and it all appears to stick well.
Got a bunch of overspray on the old undercoating that was just washed clean and it sticks to that as well.

If this is a truck that the floor boards may get soaked wet forever again with wet carpet or whatever, I’d consider a quick sand back to mostly bare metal just so I wasn’t relying on $4 a can paint to stick to bare metal, but most likely I’d not even waste much primer inside the cab and just shoot it with top coat.

Paint will stick to properly prepped paint, have painted a few vehicles without using any primer save for covering bare metal or as filler.

Thank you, for the follow up! The $4 can stuff is there to stop flash rust and it is stuck. moving on!
 

Curt

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Grease-able shackles and new shocks.Had leaf spring out in 15 minutes.

It’s the old bushings in the spring eyes that take a bit.Drilling holes has always worked well,in other things in life as well.Anyway,much beefier components than factory.

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Catbox

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Welp, got my engine figured out. Noid light showed the injector was firing, so my heart sank a little lower. Pulled the VC off and first thing I see is the intake rocker’s bolt is higher up than the rest. Thing was flopping in the wind, not tight at all [emoji2357][emoji2357] Must’ve missed that one while torquing them.

Took the rocker off to inspect, same with the pushrod. Al looked perfect. Threw it all back together, torqued it up, VC and harness back on. Fired up and revved smooth. Took it for a drive and all is right with the world [emoji119][emoji119] Tuner comes back tomorrow. I’ve driven around work twice now and she’s happy. Even at 1/4 throttle, she’s peppy. Can’t wait to bury my foot


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

We still wanna know how it sounds....
:banana-mario:
 

Curt

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Here’s some more pics of the new shackles and shocks.It rides better.Installing new brake lines today

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Jarrett Melvin

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Busy couple weeks. Finally got a start on my 1 ton I picked up last fall.

Bought it off a guy I knew who owned the local sawmill, been in his family for 102 years. I got an 87 1 ton C30 C&C, 350 TBI/sm465 with a dump bed they used to haul lumber on.

I had seen it running a couple months before I bought it.

I got it home, threw 3 tires on it and a new slave and master cylinder and clutch line. Then it say for the winter until now.

I got it in the garage when I got off work for a few weeks. Started out by straight axle swapping it with a Dana 44 front axle, using the ORD conversion kit. While at that I used a 4" Rough Country Lift for new springs and shocks. New shackles, and new spring hangers.

I then replaced all the brake lines, replaced the calipers, pads, drums, shoes, wheel cylinders and brake hoses.

All new power steering lines, then through some belts. Got the power steering and hydroboost and alternator working.

Finally I threw on an older single square headlight front clip and fenders.

Still really rough around the edges yet. Lots of work to be done. Lights, exhaust, body,paint, a new 4wd crossmember had to be installed and interior, especially a new flat deck. But some good progress in the past couple of weeks just at it on my own.

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