First Time Stroker Build Requesting Help!

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madhat11

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I've been doing some research on building a 383 stroker since I plan on tearing into my truck next year and I've put together a rough list of parts. Mostly going with kits to make the process easier. This is my first time ever building an engine myself so don't be afraid to critisize!
- I'm starting with an all around solid 350 that's got the 2-piece rear main followed by a built 700r4
- For the rotating assembly I was looking at the Eagle B13405E030 along with a Melling high volume oil pump
- Settled with the Edelbrock 2096 460hp top end kit along with Comp ultra pro magnum XD 1.5 Roller rockers
-And when it comes to the carb I was hard pressed between a holley sniper or just a standard holley carb. Not sure on the sniper since that uncharted territory for me.

Anyways I would love to hear y'alls opinions on this list, I'm open to any ideas! Thanks!

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shiftpro

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Hi Evan welcome.

First to criticize your spelling... you asked for it!

Ok do you have an engine builder close by? You will need a relationship with your machinist and find out how much experience he has in stroked small blocks.
Not all blocks require the same attention regarding clearances. Some need a little grinding (clearancing) along the pan rail for the crank counterweight. Also a little grinding to clearance the rod bolts/nuts along the side of the block just above the pan rail. There's not a lot of meat there and you don't want to go too deep and find the water jacket, that's why I'm bringing this topic up for your machinist and you to discuss.

The 383 is a lovely combo. The ladies will love your big crank.
 

4WDKC

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high volume oil pump and standard oil pan could result in pumping the pan dry. Use a standard pump out extra capacity pan. Honestly you are looking at laying out a lot of cash for never building an engine before, Id recommend doing a budget rebuild incase things go wrong and you arent out a ton of money. Then next time you need an engine you have experience to build one with more power.

Welcome btw

or just buy a crate engine with a warranty.
 

idahovette

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Shiftpro ,at least he has punctuation!!
 

82sbshortbed

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5.7" rod 383 Stroker Engine Kit w/Wiseco Flattop Forged Race Pistons (.030 Bore) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0745HHDZL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rbCvDb8CNHHSF

It's 1k for the kit. Be ready too spend some money. Might be a bit of a big step for your first engine build. I thought about doing this too but, I like you have never built a stroker motor. So I decided to get a BBC 454 that's ready to drop in and saved money and got more power. Now I just need to swap them out. Oh and got a turbo 350 with it too.
 

82sbshortbed

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Oh yeah welcome to the site from Texas
 

Charlie

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:welcome:
 

75Monza

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Running a holley ultra street avenger 770 vac advance, electric choke, 4 corner idle on my 383, really like it for my combo. The vent tubes are a little short for offroad, so made a custom connecting tube and drilled some holes in the top, never had any issues with it. Don't cheap out on the crank whatever you do. Mine was a cast Eagle, still unsure how I managed, but snapped the crank off between timing gear and #1 main one day. It broke in a fork, so saved my ass an was able to drive it home like that, sure ran ratty though, lol.
 

madhat11

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Hi Evan welcome.

First to criticize your spelling... you asked for it!

Ok do you have an engine builder close by? You will need a relationship with your machinist and find out how much experience he has in stroked small blocks.
Not all blocks require the same attention regarding clearances. Some need a little grinding (clearancing) along the pan rail for the crank counterweight. Also a little grinding to clearance the rod bolts/nuts along the side of the block just above the pan rail. There's not a lot of meat there and you don't want to go too deep and find the water jacket, that's why I'm bringing this topic up for your machinist and you to discuss.

The 383 is a lovely combo. The ladies will love your big crank.
Damn you got me haha.

But yeah I I do have a shop nearby that I know pretty well. I help one of my good friends with his IMCA stock car and we take the motor there all the time. They really know what they're doing so I shouldn't have any problems getting it machined and balanced.

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madhat11

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high volume oil pump and standard oil pan could result in pumping the pan dry. Use a standard pump out extra capacity pan. Honestly you are looking at laying out a lot of cash for never building an engine before, Id recommend doing a budget rebuild incase things go wrong and you arent out a ton of money. Then next time you need an engine you have experience to build one with more power.

Welcome btw

or just buy a crate engine with a warranty.
That is a good point, I just kinda made the assumption based off of my current pump. It's old as hell so the pressure can get a little low sometimes. So a brand new standard volume pump should be sufficient enough for this setup right?

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madhat11

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5.7" rod 383 Stroker Engine Kit w/Wiseco Flattop Forged Race Pistons (.030 Bore) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0745HHDZL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rbCvDb8CNHHSF

It's 1k for the kit. Be ready too spend some money. Might be a bit of a big step for your first engine build. I thought about doing this too but, I like you have never built a stroker motor. So I decided to get a BBC 454 that's ready to drop in and saved money and got more power. Now I just need to swap them out. Oh and got a turbo 350 with it too.
Just wondering what's the difference with this kit that makes it worth the extra $250

And yeah like I said to shiftpro I do have quite a bit of experience working with sbc's I've just never built one before but I do intend to take my sweet time on this to make sure I get it right.

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madhat11

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Running a holley ultra street avenger 770 vac advance, electric choke, 4 corner idle on my 383, really like it for my combo. The vent tubes are a little short for offroad, so made a custom connecting tube and drilled some holes in the top, never had any issues with it. Don't cheap out on the crank whatever you do. Mine was a cast Eagle, still unsure how I managed, but snapped the crank off between timing gear and #1 main one day. It broke in a fork, so saved my ass an was able to drive it home like that, sure ran ratty though, lol.

Yeah I'm kinda leaning more towards a standard carb because like I said I don't have any experience with the sniper even though it doesn't sound too complicated I just feel more comfortable with something like the street warrior I have now.

Now that I've heard your experience with the eagle crank 82sbshortbed's recommendation is lookin a little better.

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QBuff02

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It's old as hell so the pressure can get a little low sometimes

The pressure isn't low because the pump is wore out, the pressure gets low because all of the bearings and internal clearances are worn. If you did nothing but replace the bearings in the engine your oil pressure would be up and in or above spec. Most oil pumps look very good when taken apart at rebuild time. But the bearings are another story. 9 times out of 10 you could put the exact same oil pump into a rebuilt engine and have marked improvement on oil pressure. But no one does this because new oil pump= cheap insurance. If you're going to use a stock pan, I would be hard pressed to use a high volume pump. If you're not going to turn a lot of rpm on the regular you might get away with it. As far as putting the 383 kit in, you're going to have to clearance the area of the pan rails and the bottom of the cylinders, and depending on the connecting rods you use, there's a good chance you're also going to have to massage some material off the connecting rods as well. Of which if you do, you're going to have to rebalance the entire rotating assembly. But some rods already come from the manufacturer with that in mind. I would also make sure to opt for an internally balanced assembly as well. Sometimes when setting up a stroker build, you might have the engine partially together and back apart multiple times before you finally assemble it for the last time. Having a reputable shop that knows what they're doing will go a long way in keeping costs down, and ask lots of questions.
 

MikeB

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Madhat11: Got a few hours? Read through this: https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/131229/

This guy Grumpy knows more about building a 383 than anyone I've ever known -- certainly more than a machinist who doesn't specialize in 383s. I've probably been involved in 30-40 383 builds, from hot-tanking and clearancing to balancing and assembly. So I have few notes here and there, and some things stashed in my head, but Grumpy has it all written down, or links to others that have been there/done that. Worst case, skim through the topics that interest you.
 

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