Help with Stereo Wiring

[LACROMER]

So I have a 83 K10 that the po cut out some of the wiring for the stereo, I'm trying to install a new radio and I can't seem to get power to the radio any help with what to connect to where would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[87ChevyR10]

So I have a 83 K10 that the po cut out some of the wiring for the stereo, I'm trying to install a new radio and I can't seem to get power to the radio any help with what to connect to where would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I recently did a stereo install. It seems you are missing some wires from the dash. If I remember correctly, the factory radio had 2 plugs: 1 for power and ground; and another for the speakers. I do not see the red power wire in your picture. Also, I used the wire from the cig lighter as the 12V hot source.

If the power lead is gone, you will need to run a lead from a switched power source or from the battery with an inline fuse.

Hope this helps.

 

[chengny]

As 87ChevyR10 says, the radio wiring consisted of two harness connectors. One was the power, backlighting & ground plug. The leads were assigned as:

1. Yellow - ignition switched power (only hot when key is in RUN or ACC) via 15 amp fuse
labeled RDO.

2. Gray - power for radio back lighting. On the same circuit as the dimmable dash
lighting.

3. Black - ground wire.

The number of leads to the other harness plug(s) - for the speakers - varied with which stereo RPO package was supplied.

Looks like you have a 4 speaker system. The 8 speaker wires are pinched between your finger tips. The other wire - if it is black - is the ground wire.

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You need to find the hot (yellow) lead for the switched power supply. This will be connected to the red wire at your new HU's harness plug.


Additionally, you will need to run a new power supply from a battery (always on) circuit and connect it to the yellow lead in the HU's plug. Without the constant hot power supply, your new HU will not retain your settings and the clock will reset to 12:00 each time you restart the truck.


If you should come across the gray wire, disregard it. Just tape it off and stuff it somewhere. Modern head units do not accommodate dimmable back lighting.

Below is a chart showing the standardized colors for HU wiring. Note that the ignition switched power supply comes in on the red wire. That is why (if you find it) your factory yellow must be connected there.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[LACROMER]

As 87ChevyR10 says, the radio wiring consisted of two harness connectors. One was the power, backlighting & ground plug. The leads were assigned as:

1. Yellow - ignition switched power (only hot when key is in RUN or ACC) via 15 amp fuse
labeled RDO.

2. Gray - power for radio back lighting. On the same circuit as the dimmable dash
lighting.

3. Black - ground wire.

The number of leads to the other harness plug(s) - for the speakers - varied with which stereo RPO package was supplied.

Looks like you have a 4 speaker system. The 8 speaker wires are pinched between your finger tips. The other wire - if it is black - is the ground wire.

You must be registered for see images attach

You need to find the hot (yellow) lead for the switched power supply. This will be connected to the red wire at your new HU's harness plug.

Additionally, you will need to run a new lead to a battery (always on) circuit. Without the constant hot power supply, your new HU will not retain your settings and the clock will reset to 12:00 each time you restart the truck.

If you should come across the gray wire, disregard it. Just tape it off and stuff it somewhere. Modern head units do not accommodate dimmable back lighting.

Below is a chart showing the standardized colors for HU wiring. Note that the ignition switched power supply comes in on the red wire. That is why (if you find it) your factory yellow must be connected there.

You must be registered for see images attach

Okay so I found these wires and connected the yellow to the red wire on the radio harness and also connected the grounds and I still got no power. 15 amp RDO fuse is good.

 

[chengny]

Is there power at the factory yellow - when the ignition is in the RUN/ACC positions?


Also, I don't know if you noticed this:

Additionally, you will need to run a new power supply from a battery (always on) circuit and connect it to the yellow lead in the HU's plug. Without the constant hot power supply, your new HU will not retain your settings and the clock will reset to 12:00 each time you restart the truck.


In addition to the settings/clock not working, I should have also mentioned that the HU won't even power up without that uninterrupted battery power supply.

 

[LACROMER]

Is there power at the factory yellow - when the ignition is in the RUN/ACC positions?


Also, I don't know if you noticed this:

Additionally, you will need to run a new power supply from a battery (always on) circuit and connect it to the yellow lead in the HU's plug. Without the constant hot power supply, your new HU will not retain your settings and the clock will reset to 12:00 each time you restart the truck.


In addition to the settings/clock not working, I should have also mentioned that the HU won't even power up without that uninterrupted battery power supply.

I dont know if there is power at the factory yellow im going to go buy a test light tomorrow and give it a shot. Thanks for the help. Also is there another wire or fuse i could hook the (always on) circuit to. Im trying to minimize the wires running through the dash and under the hood so i want to avoid hooking it up directly to the battery if at all possible. Thanks again for all the help. Im new to wiring so its a learning experience.

 

[87ChevyR10]

I dont know if there is power at the factory yellow im going to go buy a test light tomorrow and give it a shot. Thanks for the help. Also is there another wire or fuse i could hook the (always on) circuit to. Im trying to minimize the wires running through the dash and under the hood so i want to avoid hooking it up directly to the battery if at all possible. Thanks again for all the help. Im new to wiring so its a learning experience.

Use the orange/black wire running to the cig lighter. It's always on. That's what I used.

 

[chengny]

Use the orange/black wire running to the cig lighter. It's always on. That's what I used.


2 X what John says - but I think the lighter feed is a plain orange wire in an 83.


BTW - Just going by the picture of the wires in your hand, I am fairly certain this is the correct wiring diagram for your speakers. I am extremely color deficient (can only really see blue and yellow) so don't take my word for it:

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[Reckless_ridin]

I am also having problems just got my new retro sounds stereo and they don't sale harness anyone have full wiring label diagram? Or know what's what. I also have a 87 r10 so this has helped a lot already don't want to have to trace speakers though

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[TRAZOII]

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[Camar068]

Since your diggin into wiring, You might think about installing a relay and terminal block in the glovebox for 12V cont. and 12V IGN. That way in the future if you ever need 12V, you have one place to go with no splicing. Someone here did it but I can't find the post. Had a nice pic of it 2.