SM465 Transmission Question

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davbell22602

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Ok. Make long story short. I was told thats its impossible or too much work to go 2wd to 4wd on a 2wd frame. I had someone tell today that cab, suspension, etc. bolts up different on 2wd frame than 4wd frame. Plus making the cut out in the cab for 4wd shifter. He said I'm probably better off doing a solid axle swap conversion. Basically he was telling me there's more work than just swapping the stuff off 2wd frame over to the 4wd frame and would be too much work.
 

HotRodPC

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Ok. Make long story short. I was told thats its impossible or too much work to go 2wd to 4wd on a 2wd frame. I had someone tell today that cab, suspension, etc. bolts up different on 2wd frame than 4wd frame. Plus making the cut out in the cab for 4wd shifter. He said I'm probably better off doing a solid axle swap conversion. Basically he was telling me there's more work than just swapping the stuff off 2wd frame over to the 4wd frame and would be too much work.

I am thinking you misunderstood.
What is alot of work and not worth all the efforts is converting a 2wd to 4wd. And so, if you are going to do such a thing, you're better off to just convert to straight axle if you are going to go thru all the motions of transfering the Indepedant Front Suspension (IFS) 4wd system.
BUT, if you have a good body on the 2WD and a good 4wd Chassis, then it is easier to transfer the body to the 4wd chassis IMO.
 

davbell22602

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I am thinking you misunderstood.
What is alot of work and not worth all the efforts is converting a 2wd to 4wd. And so, if you are going to do such a thing, you're better off to just convert to straight axle if you are going to go thru all the motions of transfering the Indepedant Front Suspension (IFS) 4wd system.
BUT, if you have a good body on the 2WD and a good 4wd Chassis, then it is easier to transfer the body to the 4wd chassis IMO.

Yes, I good cab thats in good where the cab corners or floor pans arent showing rust yet.

The guy said also I had to stay with 88-98 4wd frame and find the right trany, driveshafts,etc.
 

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So are you getting just a frame? A rolling chassis? Complete truck or what?? What's the whole story on your donor?
 

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OK, so transfter your body to the rolling chassis, and find your transmission/tcase combo you are using and go from there. Yes, it will be work. Usually any project worth doing is work, so whoever told you different, lied to you.
 

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Ok, Which transfer case/trany combo am I better off to go with?
 

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I do believe the NP241C would be year model correct for a 90. I'm sure you don't want to go Elecrtic T Case right? So, NP241C or NP208 is your aluminum case chain belt driven options. An NP205 is the strongest unit. Its cast iron and gear to gear driven. You can couple them up with about any trans you want. Its just a matter of having the righ output shaft for the trans, and the coreect adapter to join them.
 

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BUT, if you have a good body on the 2WD and a good 4wd Chassis, then it is easier to transfer the body to the 4wd chassis IMO.
I did that once wit 2 Burbans! :wave:
 

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I'm wanting to find me a rust bucket 4x4 burb and put my C20 Burb body on it. But with red interior, and bench seat, I think I am gonna punt. Keep the Burb 3/4 2wd, and find me a K5. I want a K5, I want a K5. Clicking my heels together with my eyes closed. I want a K5, I want a K5 !!! That lying bitch Dorothy !!! I don't see one in the driveway after all that !!!
 

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I'm wanting to find me a rust bucket 4x4 burb and put my C20 Burb body on it. But with red interior, and bench seat, I think I am gonna punt. Keep the Burb 3/4 2wd, and find me a K5. I want a K5, I want a K5. Clicking my heels together with my eyes closed. I want a K5, I want a K5 !!! That lying bitch Dorothy !!! I don't see one in the driveway after all that !!!
$500 bucks I got a rusted out burb with a great frame/axles/trans, steering is nice and tight, but the motor is f'd, $400 for you pal. :roflbow:
 

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I get a lil cash, weather warms up and I feel like a drive, I just might do that deal. Yours is gray bucket interior too huh???
 

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Earlier SM465
The earlier era of the SM465 include the 1968 - 1978 transmissions. There were both 2wd and 4wd versions. Internally, they are identical to each with the exception of the transmission mainshaft. The 4wd version of this mainshaft (or "output shaft") has a 10-spline output with a 2-5/8" stickout and an accompanying 4wd adapter housing. The 2wd version has a 35-spline threaded mainshaft compatible with a driveshaft yoke, and accompanying 2wd style tailhousing.
 

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I got you Hotrod!

But its not. You have input shaft, countershaft, then output shaft. IF it was all one main shaft throughout, then you'd only have a 1 to 1 ratio throughout and no gears to shift.

Earlier SM465
The earlier era of the SM465 include the 1968 - 1978 transmissions. There were both 2wd and 4wd versions. Internally, they are identical to each with the exception of the transmission mainshaft. The 4wd version of this mainshaft (or "output shaft") has a 10-spline output with a 2-5/8" stickout and an accompanying 4wd adapter housing. The 2wd version has a 35-spline threaded mainshaft compatible with a driveshaft yoke, and accompanying 2wd style tailhousing.

**************"The 4wd version of this mainshaft (or "output shaft")".****************:lol:


http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/sm465.htm
 
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