Brainstorming layout..

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Burkee1483

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Finally getting to the point where I can start to lay out speakers and wiring home runs from the headunit to the amp.

Kicker 10
Kicker 750 amp
Kicker CE 6x9 with external cross overs and tweaters
Kicker Dual 2.5’s In the factory 4x10 hole using classic cars adaptor plate.

It’s been a very long time since I’ve done car audio stuff. I’m assuming simple rule of separating RCA’s and Power/Ground Signal is still a major thing to not have interference?

Plan on welding studs to the back cab panel and bolting the amp to it using rubber isolators to absorb vibrations. Unless other wise suggested…also thought about carpeting the back wall section so it all flows nicely
 

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Grit dog

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Yup all the old rules regarding electricity and signals still apply. Although quality rca cables would likely be fine.
Just a thought, for the amp in the 86 I was going to hard mount it and after setup and testing with it sitting on the carpeted floor under the middle of the seat, I decided it really couldn’t move around from there and if it did I could put some Velcro on the bottom.
No, it doesn’t have an air gap under it but it’s not smashed down into the carpet with screws.
Works perfectly, hidden from view and I left enough length on the wires that I can pull it just out from under the seat if needed for adjusting levels or whatever.
 

78C10BigTen

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Finally getting to the point where I can start to lay out speakers and wiring home runs from the headunit to the amp.

Kicker 10
Kicker 750 amp
Kicker CE 6x9 with external cross overs and tweaters
Kicker Dual 2.5’s In the factory 4x10 hole using classic cars adaptor plate.

It’s been a very long time since I’ve done car audio stuff. I’m assuming simple rule of separating RCA’s and Power/Ground Signal is still a major thing to not have interference?

Plan on welding studs to the back cab panel and bolting the amp to it using rubber isolators to absorb vibrations. Unless other wise suggested…also thought about carpeting the back wall section so it all flows nicely
Since youve posted this.... gimme some insight! Im lookin to replace my 4x10s in the cab corners of my s10, elaborate on yours and the adaptors please... and if you have audio knowledge please enlighten me on the best speakers. Sorry to hijack this!!

To elaborate on mine, i have an old walmart vr3 head unit with a walmart dual brand enclosed 10" powered sub behind the seat and pyle 4x6 in the stock dash location.
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Burkee1483

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Since youve posted this.... gimme some insight! Im lookin to replace my 4x10s in the cab corners of my s10, elaborate on yours and the adaptors please... and if you have audio knowledge please enlighten me on the best speakers. Sorry to hijack this!!
So if I was running 4x10’s I would of went with these


The one I bought for my single dash replacement is this one

 

78C10BigTen

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Ok... question lol. Should i look for 3 way 4x10s or what? Lol
 

78C10BigTen

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Burkee1483

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Ricko1966

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Yup all the old rules regarding electricity and signals still apply. Although quality rca cables would likely be fine.
Just a thought, for the amp in the 86 I was going to hard mount it and after setup and testing with it sitting on the carpeted floor under the middle of the seat, I decided it really couldn’t move around from there and if it did I could put some Velcro on the bottom.
No, it doesn’t have an air gap under it but it’s not smashed down into the carpet with screws.
Works perfectly, hidden from view and I left enough length on the wires that I can pull it just out from under the seat if needed for adjusting levels or whatever.
You can screw wood strips( jenga blocks) to the amp mounts and put velcro on the jenga blocks. That'd gets your aur gap back.
 

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78C10BigTen

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If your trying to replace the 4x10 and dash speakers this would be a nice setup that’s not hateful on the wallet

I used to know some stuff about audio but that was years ago. I HAD 3 audiobahn alum 12s in a stuffed competition box on the back seat of my 94 burb. They BANGED!
 

Grit dog

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You can screw wood strips( jenga blocks) to the amp mounts and put velcro on the jenga blocks. That'd gets your aur gap back.
I thought about doing something similar. And I never mount an amp that’s getting worked hard without a standoff of some sort. But this amp is overkill for what it’s doing (only pushing a pair of 4x10s and 3.5s) and the gain is dialed back a bunch and it don’t get very warm (or used frequently/ daily, so low duty cycle all around).
 

CountKrunk

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Quick question. Do you run all the cables under the carpet? I assume so? Do you use a cable race?
 

Burkee1483

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Quick question. Do you run all the cables under the carpet? I assume so? Do you use a cable race?
I was gonna run my cables in sheething under the new rubber floor before installing it so that way I don’t nick em or anything while cutting for the shifter etc
 

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Head unit is a JVC media player in the glovebox since I’m keeping the appearance of my stock radio. 3d printed a cage to mount the headunit in the glove box out of the way
Sorry, just had to say something, my bad:
Retro Sounds is a wonderful head unit, plug and play. Stupid simple controls, no cutting involved and looks as close to OE than it gets. Accessibility is at your fingertips, no reaching into the glovebox for complex controls. And the cherry on top is you get to keep your glovebox. No wire cutting, just box up the old unit and enjoy incredible sound from the rest of the layout discribed!
 

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Sad Sack

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Sorry, just had to say something, my bad:
Retro Sounds is a wonderful head unit, plug and play. Stupid simple controls, no cutting involved and looks as close to OE than it gets. Accessibility is at your fingertips, no reaching into the glovebox for complex controls. And the cherry on top is you get to keep your glovebox. No wire cutting, just box up the old unit and enjoy incredible sound from the rest of the layout discribed!
...but pricey.
 

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