Audio cuts in and out at idle

[Dutch Rutter]

Hey everyone,

Here is a strange one that just started happening. At idle my 2 4.5" and 2 6x9" speakers have started cutting in and out very quickly. The sub keeps working like it should. and the kenwood headunit keeps powered up. I'd say above 1200 RPM the audio clears up. And if I just turn the key to the on position everything is fine. Also replaced the alternator (was about time anyway)

I checked the wiring to the head unit and everything looks good. I'm starting to think that the built in amp in the head unit is kicking the bucket.

Does that sound about right or is there something else I should check before I buy a new headunit or buy an external amp to run the speakers?

Thanks.

 

[Snoots]

Check your voltage AT THE RADIO when it's idling.

 

[Dutch Rutter]

Check your voltage AT THE RADIO when it's idling.

Thanks snoots. Checked it out and with the ign on I'm getting 12.03 with it started and normal idle 14.11

Also verified that the Audio is still cutting in and out at idle. Would this confirm the problem is with the head unit itself?

 

[Snoots]

Sounds like a bad capacitor on the input power side of the head unit.
How old is the unit?

 

[Dutch Rutter]

Sounds like a bad capacitor on the input power side of the head unit.
How old is the unit?

5 - 6 years. Crazy thing, this morning no cutting in the audio. I'm going to rewire the thing completely this weekend and see what that does for me. I figure it's free and easy enough to do.

Edit: before my drive to work it seemed to be working fine. During the drive and after it started acting up again. I vaguely remember that the power wire which the PO ran, has one of those quick splice jobbers which could have a poor connection. I guess if it's still being screwy after the rewire I can always bin it and move on.

 

[Snoots]

quick splice jobbers

Always trouble. Soldering is best.

 

[Dutch Rutter]

Always trouble. Soldering is best.

Yep, those damn things are just like vacuum leaks. I'll dust off my soldering iron and brush up on my skills. I already have the needed wire and shrink wrap. Worst case I still get a new unit but know that my connections are good.

 

[Dutch Rutter]

I think we got it fixed up. I went through last night and replaced all of the Previous owners janky connections. I not only found the T tap, but also three other T Taps, and a few crimped on wire nuts. I replaced all of that with some clean solder and shrink wrap. Really cleaned the wiring up nicely, and so far today audio has been clean and sharp no matter what.

Thanks @Snoots for the huge help in sorting this out!

 

[Snoots]

I love happy endings!

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[Camar068]

I like to run clean power straight from the battery for audio. I'm not an expert, but I've run into enough problems that clean power runs fixed. The past 2 trucks I've owned I actually ran the power to the amp for the sub, then to the radio. Why not....there's a pretty little terminal strip on the amp to tap into.