Time to put a sound system in the hotrod, wanna bounce some ideas

[CalSgt]

Well Huck, your speaker is only about 0.07 cubic feet of displacement. It would be a little more critical if you were running a bunch of them in a box that was on the fringe of being undersized.

I think you’ll be okay a tad undersized

 

[SquareRoot]

You "tune" the box to the frequency you want from the sub. A quality sub will have the spec sheet and tell you what the optimum frequency is and the type/volume enclosure. A "quality" manufacturers specs will generally account for the speaker volume. Is the box sealed or ported? Your 'e not gonna get much of the lower frequencies from that setup. It will sound good with snare drums however!

 

[TotalyHucked]

Well Huck, your speaker is only about 0.07 cubic feet of displacement. It would be a little more critical if you were running a bunch of them in a box that was on the fringe of being undersized.

I think you’ll be okay a tad undersized

That's exactly what I told him, it can't possibly make that much of a difference. I'm still thinking on it, might up the box size a touch for good measure. It would be easy to do at this stage. Maybe got for .4 to hit somewhere in the middle

 

[TotalyHucked]

You "tune" the box to the frequency you want from the sub. A quality sub will have the spec sheet and tell you what the optimum frequency is and the type/volume enclosure. A "quality" manufacturers specs will generally account for the speaker volume. Is the box sealed or ported? Your 'e not gonna get much of the lower frequencies from that setup. It will sound good with snare drums however!

That's one thing I've never done, is specifically tuned a box, just hit somewhere in the range of the recommended box. Smaller for guys that listen to rock, larger for more hip hop/rap or in the middle for someone that listens to it all. My box will be sealed.

I listen to everything from metal to country to bluegrass and rap, so I'm leaning toward making the box a little bigger. Not drastically, but maybe shoot for .4 or so. They say .5 or bigger, the box should be ported. I like the sound of a sealed box personally.

 

[Doppleganger]

I got the itch to improve my system and this thread isn't helping matters. For the high end setup I have, I'm not happy with it. The fact is these trucks SUCK for acoustics. Biggest issue is mounting locations and trying to keep a stock looking interior. My comments are directed to the 10% of us that want exceptional sound quality, not the average guy who just want noise and Blue tooth. I've designed and installed systems professionally and as a hobby for 30+ years. My expectations are high. I've reworked my system several times. It gets better each time but there are inherent limits. The only way around this is going nuclear. By that I mean, full custom, putting sound over originality. I crossed that bridge with the bass/sub issue already. I got the earth shattering, mirror vibrating bass. That was achieved with a blow thru sub. It wasn't possible with a single cab truck. It's the other 6 speakers that lack because of mounting location. If you understand the directionality of sound, you know what I mean. Door speakers that aim at your ankles is no good. Ditto for dash speakers that bounce off the windshield. I got ideas that I know will work. But, it's a lot of work. Is it worth the effort? Depends if I'm in that 10% currently.

Best set of speakers I ever had was a set of Boston 6.53 - 3 way components. Had the 6.5's down low in the doors; 4" mid just above it where the factory 5.25 used to sit, and then the tweeters in the dash (where oddly enough, tweeters were with the 'primo' factory systems). Sounded incredible.

I have an NOS set of original made in Germany MB Quart 3-way components I'd like to try in a square.

 

[F-64]

You could run Dayton Audio's dsp unit. You could run 2 stereo inputs. A small digital tuner and your phone for example. It also allows streaming via bluetooth. A small remote rotary knob controls volume as well as selecting the inputs. Plus you have 8 outputs. Each output has a parametric eq, crossover and time alignment control. It ain't as nice as the higher end dsp's but it will allow you to hide your input sources as well as tune your system via Dayton phone app(needs the bluetooth dongle) or laptop.
About $275 with the remote and the bluetooth dongle.

Oh, and the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook is online via free pdf if you want to delve deeper into box design. Just do a google search for it.

URL ul="true"]https://www.daytonaudio.com/product...gital-signal-processor-for-home-and-car-audio[/URL]

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[JamesSam]

That's one thing I've never done, is specifically tuned a box, just hit somewhere in the range of the recommended box. Smaller for guys that listen to rock, larger for more hip hop/rap or in the middle for someone that listens to it all. My box will be sealed.

I listen to everything from metal to country to bluegrass and rap, so I'm leaning toward making the box a little bigger. Not drastically, but maybe shoot for .4 or so. They say .5 or bigger, the box should be ported. I like the sound of a sealed box personally.

Yep I gotta listen to it all too. Go on...

 

[TotalyHucked]

You could run Dayton Audio's dsp unit. You could run 2 stereo inputs. A small digital tuner and your phone for example. It also allows streaming via bluetooth. A small remote rotary knob controls volume as well as selecting the inputs. Plus you have 8 outputs. Each output has a parametric eq, crossover and time alignment control. It ain't as nice as the higher end dsp's but it will allow you to hide your input sources as well as tune your system via Dayton phone app(needs the bluetooth dongle) or laptop.
About $275 with the remote and the bluetooth dongle.

Oh, and the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook is online via free pdf if you want to delve deeper into box design. Just do a google search for it.

URL ul="true"]https://www.daytonaudio.com/product...gital-signal-processor-for-home-and-car-audio[/URL]

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Ooo, that's intriguing

 

[TotalyHucked]

Got about 2/3 of the sound system install done Saturday. Pulled the Custom Autosound shaft headunit out, tested the new Pioneer single din and cut the dash

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Then got the 3.5s mounted in the stock brackets in the dash. These Skar units have such a tall tweeter, I had to mount them underneath with the screws pointing up. Hoping that doesn't cause much of an issue when putting the dash pad back on

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[Soundmound]

Got about 2/3 of the sound system install done Saturday. Pulled the Custom Autosound shaft headunit out, tested the new Pioneer single din and cut the dash

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Then got the 3.5s mounted in the stock brackets in the dash. These Skar units have such a tall tweeter, I had to mount them underneath with the screws pointing up. Hoping that doesn't cause much of an issue when putting the dash pad back on

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Wanna sell the knob unit?

 

[TotalyHucked]

Then pulled wires back to the back of the console where the amp will be, mounted the amp, mounted the 6.5s (forgot to put their baffles in, I'll do that today) and threw the console in. Ran the ground/remote turn on/power wires, then wired up the 3.5s/6.5s to test. It all worked properly and sounded good for the initial test

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So then I stuffed the sub box with Poly Fil and installed the wire bulkhead and installed everything. I found a thing online that said you should run ~1.5lbs of Poly Fil per cubic foot of box volume. So I'm at ~.4 to that works out to be .6lbs. I got a 1lb bag and it sure seemed like .6lbs would be overstuffing the box, so I probably put .3-.4 lbs in. Any insight on that? Am I good or should I do the .6lbs?

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[CountKrunk]

How did the hvac move up go? Seems the wires are long enough.

I'm going to do the same thing and possibly switch it do a double din down there.

I have the stock radio that works (turns on etc but no speakers connected to it so idk, plan is testing it) I'll be sure to offer it up when that happens.

 

[TotalyHucked]

Wanna sell the knob unit?

Yeah I'd sell it. It's not Bluetooth though, just AM/FM/Aux cord.

 

[TotalyHucked]

How did the hvac move up go? Seems the wires are long enough.

I'm going to do the same thing and possibly switch it do a double din down there.

I have the stock radio that works (turns on etc but no speakers connected to it so idk, plan is testing it) I'll be sure to offer it up when that happens.

But I didn't move the HVAC Actually, looking at that picture, I wouldn't mind swapping the HVAC and the radio if I could figure out how to retain the radio.

 

[Soundmound]

Yeah I'd sell it. It's not Bluetooth though, just AM/FM/Aux cord.

Dang! My phone doesn't even have a port, just the USB C connection.