Finally got a running 65 C10

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Ricko1966

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What does that mean? Like, what does that convey?

Thanks
Brake shoes,there is a long brake shoe and a short brake shoe. If you put them in the wrong position the brakes will be very prone to being grabby. So the acronym big on back , Bob,means long shoe to the rear. You should always look first,when you take them apart. If it's not Bob do some research. because there's always exceptions to every rule,but Bob is my goto.
 
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1low4x4

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This was a pic of the assembly before I took it apart last year. When it was covered in brake fluid from leaky cylinder. I see I was missing the piece on the right and didn’t know it.

Headed to get a spring kit and new shoes. Hope the kit has the piece I’m missing.
 

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1low4x4

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Came home to oil drops on the ground, upon inspection both valve covers appear to be leaking again, at the same time. I’m so tired of this. This is why people go LS. No ******* oil leaks. I’ve never had a sbc that I could get to seal up completely. Always something
 

1low4x4

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Whatever that hole is for, it’s not part of the problem. There’s nothing that goes there. Like there’s no hole behind it in the back of the drum plate or whatever it’s called that would hold a pin or anything.

I really can’t say why this did what it did. After all, this wheel cylinder is not even a year old, probably and years newer than the rest. What could’ve caused the wheel cylinder to push out that far? All the springs were in place. As were the pins and springs.

I used a big pair of pliers to squeeze the wheel cylinder pins back in an acceptable range so I could put the shoes on.

They gave me the wrong brake shoes, I didn’t think to measure, I forgot it’s 2025 and no one knows how to look up parts. So I said **** it, I’ll put the old ones back in right now because I really need to get the truck on the road. My wife’s truck is getting a transmission and she needs to drive my work truck. Got it all back together, pressed the brake and nothing. The wheel cylinder will now not expand the pins onto the shoes. Loosened the bleeder, nothing. Loosened the nut on the brake line itself, I have fluid there.

Went to remove the cylinder, finally had to beat a 9 mm 12 point on one of the bolt heads to get it out. Sometime later, I will call O’Reillys and have them order the right brake shoes, another wheel cylinder. The spring kit was OK, it came with everything but the small spring that goes underneath the piece for the emergency brake, the spray that holds it off of the inside of the brake shoe. It also did not come with the flat spring that goes on the flat bar above the axle shaft between the two shoes. Mine was broken and missing pieces so I just had to put it back in without one.

As far as engine oil leaks, I am beyond frustrated with this thing. As I said earlier, I’ve never had a small black Chevy that I could completely contain fluids and this is no exception and in fact, it’s even worse. Which is very frustrating because I took every pain to make sure this wouldn’t happen. It seems that my little cheap Chevy chrome breather that I got from O’Reillys on the valve cover has filled up with blow by in the little foam insert and it’s been steadily blowing out, with the clutch fan, pushing it towards the firewall. Every time I drive the truck I have oil in the fins on top of the valve cover, and the steering column and firewall on that side of the engine is covered now in a thick layer of what can only be called an oil spray which collects dirt and dust. I really don’t know how to fix this, maybe get a better vent or breather or whatever the hell it’s called?

I laid under the truck for a long time on both sides, looking at the back of the cylinder heads, and it’s so hard to tell, but I’m pretty sure at least the driver side is leaking again. The bolts were a little bit loose, which is surprising because I snuggled the hell out of them when I put them on last time, so while I was retaking them down I twisted one off in the cylinder head. Cheap aluminum head bolts or whatever they are. Some sort of low-grade China stainless I don’t know. Anyway, I was able to get it out with a vice grip, thankfully. When I took the valve cover off, it was really on there. It took a prybar on the header flange, and only the intake to get it to unseal. However, they’re at the very back, the surface of the gasket is wet, and there was oil there. I just don’t understand what I’m doing wrong. I know some of it has to be these aluminum fin valve covers. I tried them on another 350 and I had to throw them in the trash, I could never get them to seal. I had to go back with The stock ugly ass TBI center bolt style because they were Vortec heads. Maybe I can buy some of those little three or 4 inch spreader things you put down before you put the nut on that distributes the holding power more. These were cork gaskets with the recommended Permatex Gasket sealant on both sides.

Again, I don’t understand what could have caused the wheel cylinder to push out far enough that it could defeat those heavy springs, so if anyone has any suggestions, I’m open ears. But it seems like whatever that event was, it ruined or seized or something, the wheel cylinder.

I really don’t know if I’m going to order new valve covers or what I’m so disgusted with this truck right now. It can just sit outside until my Attitude improves
 

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1low4x4

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Well watching Vice grip garage and david freiburger got me in a better mood. I had the kid at oreillys order the other 3 sets of shoes (theres 4 options) and I'll go pick mine out tomorrow morning. Also ordered the 75 dollar FEL-PRO blue gaskets with the steel core. Going to bring the wheel cylinder in tomorrow and see if I can get 2 more, I have new shoes and springs for both sides, may as well do them both, and I can clean stuff up and shoot some black paint.

Any tips on setting the new shoes up? Its been so long, I remember just adjusting the shoes until the drum had a hard time turning and then backing them off a hair. Also are these "self adjusting" when in reverse like the squarebodies werew supposed to be? Does that even work?
 

Ricko1966

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Are you not running spreaders on your valve covers?
 

1low4x4

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Are you not running spreaders on your valve covers?
no, these have a weird raised profile where the bolts go. Honestly, I need new bolts, quality ones. I will try to see if the parts house has spreaders too
 

DoubleDingo

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While every engine leaks, chasing leaks when it should be sealed, is frustrating.

I don't recall if you have a pcv installed, but it sounds like your engine would benefit from having a proper pcv setup.

That breather/filler tube is fine, but there should also be a draft tube off the back of the engine. If you don't have the draft tube by the distributor, your engine is probably building up too much pressure.

The pcv system will better regulate the pressures and any oil vapors get sucked into to air/fuel mixture and burned off.

Get some real bolts from a real hardware store for the valve covers, they usually have a better selection and typically better quality than the modern auto parts stores.
 

1low4x4

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Hey, it has a pcv in the other valve cover but god knows if it is functional.

The draft tube hole was plugged with a rubber expansion plug and was the source of the massive oil leak which is why I pulled the engine in the first place (I didn’t realize it was a failed expansion plug until I pulled the engine out)

I put a steel freeze plug in its place since I didn’t have the tube or think I needed it.
 

DoubleDingo

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Went to post #433 to get a view of the valve covers. Don't bother with spreaders, they don't work with those valve covers. Good bolts will probably be a closer diameter than those chinesium bolts you used.
 

1low4x4

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Yeah, they have a weird raised profile. Going to get a grade 8 bolt lol
 

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1low4x4

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pcv
 

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