Finally got a running 65 C10

[DoubleDingo]

I would not recommend just giving the rockers a half turn unless you know for a fact you're at zero lash, and that'szero lash on the cam base circle, and you shouldn't be running it at zero lash. At least that's how it came off from your post

 

[1low4x4]

I would not recommend just giving the rockers a half turn unless you know for a fact you're at zero lash, and that'szero lash on the cam base circle, and you shouldn't be running it at zero lash. At least that's how it came off from your post

Too late

 

[DoubleDingo]

Too late

DOH! Well, I hope it doesn't run badly again. That is not how you adjust valves. I hate seeing you chasing your tail on some of this stuff. The beauty of SBC hydraulic valves, is once they're set you do not have to mess with them over and over. Set them and run the engine for many years without touching them again.

 

[1low4x4]

DOH! Well, I hope it doesn't run badly again. That is not how you adjust valves. I hate seeing you chasing your tail on some of this stuff. The beauty of SBC hydraulic valves, is once they're set you do not have to mess with them over and over. Set them and run the engine for many years without touching them again.

Idk. When I backed them off last time till they clattered I then snugged them up slightly enough for it to stop making noise. I felt that that was pretty close to zero lash. When I did the half turn earlier, some of the rockers were able to jiggle around loosely, not sure if that’s just because of how they were on the cam at the time the engine stopped or what but they all got half turn.

I’m at the gym now, drove it the 20 miles or so at 70 and it did fine, I think it’s ok

 

[1low4x4]

Idk. When I backed them off last time till they clattered I then snugged them up slightly enough for it to stop making noise. I felt that that was pretty close to zero lash. When I did the half turn earlier, some of the rockers were able to jiggle around loosely, not sure if that’s just because of how they were on the cam at the time the engine stopped or what but they all got half turn.

I’m at the gym now, drove it the 20 miles or so at 70 and it did fine, I think it’

DOH! Well, I hope it doesn't run badly again. That is not how you adjust valves. I hate seeing you chasing your tail on some of this stuff. The beauty of SBC hydraulic valves, is once they're set you do not have to mess with them over and over. Set them and run the engine for many years without touching them again.

I really don’t see an exact science on setting these. Even if you do the two spin method or whatever you called it, it’s still subjective to how your finger feels rolling the push rod. It really just seems like no matter what method you use. You’re just kind of guessing, and you might get it pretty close

 

[Ricko1966]

Idk. When I backed them off last time till they clattered I then snugged them up slightly enough for it to stop making noise. I felt that that was pretty close to zero lash. When I did the half turn earlier, some of the rockers were able to jiggle around loosely, not sure if that’s just because of how they were on the cam at the time the engine stopped or what but they all got half turn.

I’m at the gym now, drove it the 20 miles or so at 70 and it did fine, I think it’s ok

Yes depending on where the lifters land on the stopped cam some are going to be loose,some tight. If you backed them off until the clattered,tightened them till they stopped clattering then gave them another 1/4-1/2 a turn,they were set right.

 

[bucket]

Yes depending on where the lifters land on the stopped cam some are going to be loose,some tight. If you backed them off until the clattered,tightened them till they stopped clattering then gave them another 1/4-1/2 a turn,they were set right.

I'm reading it as he tightened them just enough to stop the clatter and then that was it. Until now, when he gave them all half a turn.

If so, it should be about right.

 

[DoubleDingo]

I really don’t see an exact science on setting these. Even if you do the two spin method or whatever you called it, it’s still subjective to how your finger feels rolling the push rod. It really just seems like no matter what method you use. You’re just kind of guessing, and you might get it pretty close

Not exact, but, the books that show the 2-roll method do not deviate, and that's not just for small block, that's big block, inline, etc. I was trained/taught the correct way and that includes going back to TDC #1 and adjusting each one according to the book, then rolling the engine again to adjust the rest.

Yes, yours are probably close, but I wouldn't be able to drive it without making sure they were correct, and running them at zero lash may or may not be okay. I personally couldn't do it and wouldn't do it.

I am glad you're getting it dialed in, it was difficult watching from the sidelines and at a distance.

 

[1low4x4]

Yes depending on where the lifters land on the stopped cam some are going to be loose,some tight. If you backed them off until the clattered,tightened them till they stopped clattering then gave them another 1/4-1/2 a turn,they were set right.

Exactly how it went

 

[1low4x4]

Do these 2 holes go into oil galleys or whatever you call it? Because for weeks that area has been wet with oil, dripping down onto the crossmember. I cleaned it off and it comes back. So the other day, I put some RTV around some bolts and ran them in. And it stopped.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Do these 2 holes go into oil galleys or whatever you call it? Because for weeks that area has been wet with oil, dripping down onto the crossmember. I cleaned it off and it comes back. So the other day, I put some RTV around some bolts and ran them in. And it stopped.

Sure do. How long were the bolts? Didn't need sealant on them. 1/2 to 3/4 inch bolts is plenty long. Too long on the upper, I believe, and it'll hit the fuel pump rod. It's way in there, but still something to be mindful of.

 

[bucket]

The top hole goes through, but the bottom one doesn't.

The top one gets a short bolt. During a fuel pump install, the top one gets a longer bolt, for the purpose of holding the fuel pump pushrod in place.

 

[1low4x4]

Cool. Good to know.

 

[Ricko1966]

Cool. Good to know.

If you use a long bolt to hold the fuel pump pushrod,finger tight is all, you can damage the pump pushrod.

 

[1low4x4]

I don’t think I ever knew that method, when I installed fuel pumps. I seem to remember, maybe putting grease on the rod to hold it? Or maybe that was something completely different I don’t really remember. My memory sucks.

I will back out the longer bolt and put a shorter one in. I don’t think I’m contacting the Rod right now as I have no issues or noises.

I drove the truck 80 miles Friday, and could’ve sworn I smelled oil burning, but then I forgot about it until yesterday morning when I pushed the truck out of the garage so I could get to the attic access to put the Halloween decorations up. There was a large amount of oil on the floor. Climbed under, and both valve covers were leaking from the back again from when I did the half turn on the valves. I can’t stand those black rubber gaskets. It’s almost impossible to get them tucked in where you need to and I ended up pinching one and half and the other one just wasn’t seated well.I’m told that fel pro makes a good one with metal in it, but I just went with cork and some permatex high tack gasket sealant and that fixed it. I had to put almost 2 quarts of VR1 oil back in it, that’s how much it leaked out in those 80 miles. All down the headers, crossmember, etc. Drove 45 miles today no leaks.