Finally got a running 65 C10

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Ricko1966

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Well, we went to the car show, had a really good time. Didn’t place. Didn’t expect to. One thing I have always found odd about local car shows is the amount of late model cars winning awards. Out of 30 cars there, mostly all classics, the car that won best of show was a 2018 orange 50th anniversary hot wheels Camaro. lol. Just a car someone bought and drove to the show. And the car that won the best paint award was a 40,000 mile 2002 red Camaro. Also a nice car but man there were some slick square bodies there with beautiful paint jobs. I just find it odd that modern cars beat out the classics so often at these things. Matter of fact, that gorgeous square body didn’t even place in the top 10. And it was hands-down one of the nicest at the show.

Anyway today I left the lights on on my 65 at the gym for 40 minutes only to come outside and it was deader than dead. Wouldn’t even make a peep when turning key. Figured it wouldn’t drain it that badly that quickly especially seeing how crappy the lights are but idk.

Got it jumped off, but then all the way home the little digital voltage read out I have on the dash Read 9 V all the way home. I assumed the alternator wasn’t charging and that it would eventually go dead again, but it never did. That read out has always been close to 12 V. The battery and the alternator are the same ones that came on the truck so unknown history.
Charging voltage should be over 13volts preferably closer to 15 volts.. Ground the alternator body to the battery negative with a jumper cable,did the voltage come up? Just occurred to me,you aren't using a 1 wire alternator are you. What alternator are you using?
 

DoubleDingo

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What @Ricko1966 said, and make sure to charge the battery before running it again, no need to put the extra strain on the alternator
 

1low4x4

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Well a new alternator fixed it, didn’t need a lightning cube but I did charge it beforehand.

Decided to figure out the defrost in this truck since it’s getting colder here finally. Turns out I don’t have the deluxe heater, which doesn’t surprise me, I have the thrift. Which is a single pull knob on the dash, pull to open the heater vent inside the cab, and then twist it three clicks for the fan selections.

None of that **** works. Turns out it’s been so hot in the cab because the cable is stuck and the vent is on open. It also doesn’t turn for the fan so I’ll have to pull the knob and switch assembly apart to see if I just need to order the cable or one of those as well. For now, I manually closed it at the box so I won’t have heat, because it’s not that damn cold yet.

Noticed coolant at the heater box and sure enough it’s leaking, took the time to wash out all of the dirt and debris. Going to get a new core, motor and fan. But for now I went to Home Depot and got a 1 inch to three-quarter inch barb reducer and just put the heater hoses together.
 

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bucket

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1" to 3/4"? Did you mean 3/4" to 5/8"?
 

1low4x4

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DoubleDingo

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Never thought of using pex connectors for that, but it should be 3/4 to 5/8
 

bucket

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Isn't PEX measured by outside diameter? That would explain it.

At parts stores, you can get the adapter nipples for just such a purpose, but they are either plastic or really thin brass. I like that PEX adapter way better.
 

1low4x4

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Isn't PEX measured by outside diameter? That would explain it.

At parts stores, you can get the adapter nipples for just such a purpose, but they are either plastic or really thin brass. I like that PEX adapter way better.
It pays to not know **** about plumbing, you walk in with an open mind
 

1low4x4

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What does valve float sound like? It’s probably not valve float but I’m having loud clattering at high RPMs. It almost sounds like a metal fuel line or something is beating against the side of the block or frame, but it could be the engine. Any ideas?

I’m wondering if I should back off the timing a bit and try it and see

I’d almost say it was rockers beating around in there….
 
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DoubleDingo

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What does valve float sound like? It’s probably not valve float but I’m having loud clattering at high RPMs. It almost sounds like a metal fuel line or something is beating against the side of the block or frame, but it could be the engine. Any ideas?

I’m wondering if I should back off the timing a bit and try it and see

I’d almost say it was rockers beating around in there….
I don't rev my engines that high, but you may be experiencing pinging.
 

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I don't rev my engines that high, but you may be experiencing pinging.
Yep, sounds like pinging to me as well, as you have described it. Now that you know your valves are set correctly, (or at least more gooder) try setting the timing again. I'd pull 2* out of it, and drive it again. With a non-stock cam, you may run best at higher rpm without the best idle vacuum. On my slightly hopped up wee oh five, the best timing for the best idle vacuum is not the best timing for highway running. I had to back out a little timing.
 

1low4x4

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Yep, sounds like pinging to me as well, as you have described it. Now that you know your valves are set correctly, (or at least more gooder) try setting the timing again. I'd pull 2* out of it, and drive it again. With a non-stock cam, you may run best at higher rpm without the best idle vacuum. On my slightly hopped up wee oh five, the best timing for the best idle vacuum is not the best timing for highway running. I had to back out a little timing.
Yes it does diesel a little bit when i shut it off, and thats with parked idle at 700. So timing it is, first
 

1low4x4

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Brought total timing down to 35 from 40 and its not doing it anymore. The clattering or pinging. So thats good. Gonna let it cool down and then take the valve covers off and give all the rockers another half turn, I think im close to zero lash so that should help out a bit
 

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