Engine Identification - Help Requested

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legozombie

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Howdy y'all, I tried looking up information regarding what I could find on my engine. Guy told me it came out of an 89' suburban. I have the following stamps:

Intake Manifold (came of the original 350 my truck had so...83' w/modifications to fit the heads) - 14057055
Heads - 14102193 "Swirlies"
Block - Passanger Front tab behind alternator - VC299D34
Block - Driver rear tab - GM 5.7LG SMC? (I think it's SMCO but it's hard to say)

I am trying to figure out more information on the block but the D34 suffix doesn't quite match up with what the lime book says. I'm buying an inspection camera to get better angles and hopefully find more stamps/information. The skeeters aren't helping either. The heads and intake make sense to me. Will post pictures of what I have when I can.

I appreciate whatever help can I can get
 

Sad Sack

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Firebird?

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legozombie

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the D34 suffix doesn't quite match up with what the lime book says.

Firebird?

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Yeah I saw that and it didn't match up with 5.7 on the rear side of the block which leads me to believe that the lime book is incorrect for my instance or I am really really really missing something
 

Sad Sack

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Did you find the engine xxxxxxxx casting number?

14102193​
305/350​
87-95​
1.84/1.50​
 

legozombie

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Here's what I was able to get. I'll try again today before the sun goes down
 

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legozombie

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I got a better Pic of the stamp. A 10243880. This is certified Frankenstein.
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Bennyt

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Are you just curious or is there a reason that you are seeking the info? Planning a rebuild, buying parts? I ask, if you are planning, I'd still disassemble to fully identify what you have and conditions before any parts are purchased.
 

legozombie

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I was just curious because I'm debating if it's worth new heads, intake manifold, and carb. As much as I love the quadrajet, it's becoming more of a rarity for replacement and tuning parts. For the same price I can just get a brand new edelbrock and tuning kit.
 

legozombie

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Semi-related:

Since my Carb is off the original '83 and I know "each Quadrajet was tuned for a specific purpose", could the difference in heads, block, and intake manifold cause the engine to idle higher? I have M4ME with 71 Jets and 49M primary rods. It's on a spacer (Mr. Gasket #3406), and the high idle is set up appropriately. The electric choke is set up properly as well. It seems to want to idle at ~1k rpm when the idle screw is off the plate. I triple checked the idle circuit to make sure it's cleaned out. The only thing I can think of next are misaligned throttle plates.

Any ideas or should I just make a new thread?
 

xm20k

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What's your initial and full timing? May have too much initial timing.
 

Ricko1966

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There are 2 screws to be concerned with 1 is the fast Idle screw make sure when the choke is open the fast Idle screw isn't still holding the throttle open.The throttle stop screw make sure it isn't holding the throttle open. Make sure the linkage/cable aren't holding the throttle open,including the TV cable. Make sure the throttle plates aren't hanging open on the base gasket. No jetting isn't making it Idle fast. Check for vacuum leaks including all the diaphragms and vacuum advance cam. As @xm20k said check timing make sure the centrifugal advance isn't hanging up. Timing with swirlies. is kind of weird they are a fast burn design that's why they get better mpg. I'd try setting total for now at 30* let base fall where it lands,we can dial that in better later,but it will take some seat time.
 

legozombie

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What's your initial and full timing? May have too much initial timing.
I'm not too sure since that isn't something I messed with. The mechanic that did the engine swap before I first owned the truck said not to mess with it. All I know is that it's an HEI distributor.


There are 2 screws to be concerned with 1 is the fast Idle screw make sure when the choke is open the fast Idle screw isn't still holding the throttle open.The throttle stop screw make sure it isn't holding the throttle open. Make sure the linkage/cable aren't holding the throttle open,including the TV cable. Make sure the throttle plates aren't hanging open on the base gasket. No jetting isn't making it Idle fast. Check for vacuum leaks including all the diaphragms and vacuum advance cam.
The fast idle screw isn't getting hung up on anything after the choke fully opens. Once the engine kicks down, the fast idle screw is visibly disengaged from the plate. The throttle stop screw on the driver side is totally disengaged and the accelerator pump is up all the way after the high idle disengages. I can slide paper between the accelerator lever and the pump.

For what it's worth -- since I've owned the truck, the APT plug was never there. I plugged it up this past weekend but it didn't seem to change the RPM. From previous testing with spraying parts with carb cleaner, there was no detectable vacuum leak on the carb or either side of the hoses going to the carb.
 

xm20k

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I'd pull some timing till she drops down to a normal idle (make sure it doesn't die when put in gear if automatic) and then drive it and see how it responds it probably has too much dialed in if everything else is good.
 

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