Engine/Trans help

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The headers and exhaust ended up much pricier than I was expecting, since you can't seem to use regular 350 headers. Something to keep in mind with blueprint.
I've got 1 3/4" headers on mine. The whole deal is just raised up 1/2" like most aftermarket heads. Shouldn't be an issue.
 

Broken85

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FYI, Header I ordered: Sanderson CC17 Header Set, SB Chevy, Chevelle, Camaro, Pickup
It was $750, plus I ordered DGU14S downpipe to connect to SGT78S, and a few other adapters and brackets.
The headers and exhaust ended up much pricier than I was expecting, since you can't seem to use regular 350 headers. Something to keep in mind with blueprint.

Yeah, good flagging that. They are top of the line headers but $750. This was the first time I ever installed headers with no gasket. Sanderson says put RTV black on them and torque them down. I was shocked it worked the first time. No leaks. I tried to retirement them after a heat cycle and there was no need. They haven’t budged. Don’t forget to get the fly wheel from Blue print too for another $250. I bought mini-starter as well

Black powder coated and they looked great. They resist a lot, but I had a radiator hose blow and got some antifreeze on them and the powder coated was toast
 

Broken85

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Oh, one more thing for the parts list; with the Blue Print motors, you cannot add a fan spacer or thermostatic clutch, which basically means you cannot use a mechanical fan. Blueprints uses an aluminum water pump that will explode if you add anything to the front. If this was your plan, you can ask them to build it with a steel water pump possibly.

So this means you will have to upgrade your truck to an electric fan setup (to include a new radiator) when you do this install. That was another $1,000 and a bunch more wiring I wasn’t expecting either.
 

wendortb

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I didn't realize that about the water pump/fan. I replaced a cheap single core rad with plastic sides to a cold case aluminum rad with fans attached. I knew that getting the fan shroud to fit the aluminum rad would have been a pain, so I chose electric fans as the easy option. Expensive, but hopefully lasts a long time. I have automatic trans, so I did need a new flex plate that fit one piece rear main. Mini starter was also required.
All in, I probably spent 20K to restore a $500 truck. It was my first, and of course I am not finished, as I am working on fixing the truck bed now. It was a frame off restore, and we replaced all wear parts and things we questioned along the way, hoping it would be like a new/old truck. Compared to actual new trucks, it isn't a bad price, and it has a lot of character.
I also just added the carb cheater to try to help tune out a little stutter I have with the Holley.
I think no matter which way you go, there will be positives and negatives. If you go LS, you have to worry about electronics. If you go with the bigger engine, you use premium and have to worry about the rest of the drive line, which can get expensive. If you go with the smaller engine, you can't take off as fast as you may want.
I don't have a posi rear end currently, and am thinking of adding it for more traction in the winter, but that would also affect your take off.
 

hack_man

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Consider; even 340 hp is twice as much as it came stock with the original 305 at 165 hp. 350 motors only came with 185.
My 305 gets no respect! In 1983 I thought it was a barn burner :flame:
 
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ThreeLRanch

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FYI, Header I ordered: Sanderson CC17 Header Set, SB Chevy, Chevelle, Camaro, Pickup
It was $750, plus I ordered DGU14S downpipe to connect to SGT78S, and a few other adapters and brackets.
The headers and exhaust ended up much pricier than I was expecting, since you can't seem to use regular 350 headers. Something to keep in mind with blueprint.
You cant just use the old manifolds ? I honestly hate headers .
 

ThreeLRanch

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Oh, one more thing for the parts list; with the Blue Print motors, you cannot add a fan spacer or thermostatic clutch, which basically means you cannot use a mechanical fan. Blueprints uses an aluminum water pump that will explode if you add anything to the front. If this was your plan, you can ask them to build it with a steel water pump possibly.

So this means you will have to upgrade your truck to an electric fan setup (to include a new radiator) when you do this install. That was another $1,000 and a bunch more wiring I wasn’t expecting either.
That is crazy since that have a water pump that seems to have the provisions for bolting a fan on the water pump . Is that not correct ?
Man this just kind of took a left turn fast . I knew about the fly wheel and was getting that as well as a mini starter .
 

wendortb

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You cant just use the old manifolds ? I honestly hate headers .
I read someplace that the exhaust port spacing was different for blueprint. I could be wrong.
 

BravoWhiskey

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I bought the same Sanderson headers, but I'm still sorting out the rest of the exhaust. I'm trying to find a local exhaust shop to connect my headers to the existing exhaust. The only local option is Meineke. I would much rather assemble a system in my garage.
 
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6.17775926 liters, 3L80, 228.6mm axle
This is the engine I bought. Same heads as both being discussed in this thread unless Im missing something.


The ports and the bolt holes are moved up on the heads 1/2". This might cause an issue on something with tight fitting headers like an S10 or an F body but the bolt hole spacing is the same.

The spark plugs are moved in on the 2 center cylinders 1/4" each like the cast iron Vortec heads. I dont remember how tight the exhaust manifolds were in that area because I switched to headers before I swapped in the engine. Same headers fit both FWIW.

Cant comment on the water pump...mine was built during Covid and because of parts shortages it came with a cast iron pump.
 

Broken85

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You cant just use the old manifolds ? I honestly hate headers .
No, look at BP website. They only have two or three company’s that make BP specific heads
 

Broken85

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That is crazy since that have a water pump that seems to have the provisions for bolting a fan on the water pump . Is that not correct ?
Man this just kind of took a left turn fast . I knew about the fly wheel and was getting that as well as a mini starter .
They look identical to a cast iron one, but my motor came with a little red tag on it that said if you bolt anything to the front it will damage the pump and probably void the warranty.

Check with BP or just put a magnet on it and see what you have. When I called , BP told me I would have to swap the pump out with a stock one on my own if I wanted to use a spacer or a clutch. That whole serpentine system is a CVF Racing setup that they buy
 

ThreeLRanch

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Well crap! I thought this was going to be kind of a easy swap but guess not .I guess I am going to have to rethink this . I am trying not to spend 10 grand if I can help it . I was going to go with a ATK engine for the cost but heard way to many bad things about them but now I am rethinking that .
 

Broken85

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I bought the same Sanderson headers, but I'm still sorting out the rest of the exhaust. I'm trying to find a local exhaust shop to connect my headers to the existing exhaust. The only local option is Meineke. I would much rather assemble a system in my garage.
I couldn’t find any thing on the market that would fit up to the Sanderson headers so I put it all together myself in the shop with the mig welder.

I went off the collector that Sanderson provides with a 2” flex pipe. https://a.co/d/bBrOEiY

Then a mandrel bent 45
KOTVTM 2.25" Stainless Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092VYPKH5/

And a straight 48” pipe to the dual mufflers
A-KARCK Straight Exhaust Pipe... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B7665M5Z/

Welded all the joints. I think inhad to trim the flex pipe an inch off each end to make it the right length for the drop. FYI, mine is a shorted, so you may or may not need longer than 48”

I bought this kit thinking it would be a turn key solution, but I only used the mufflers and the tail pipes. I have no idea how those straight pipes were ever supposed to work the way they were bent. They went in the trash. Straight pipes (no bends) worked just fine.
 
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