Turn signal assembly

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fnny6770

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Before I get too involved is this plastic piece you see here replaceable or do I have to replace the entire turn signal unit with wiring harness?
It goes into a 1980 GMC k35.
 

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fnny6770

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I tried replacing just the cam that the turn signal arm secures to but the plastic piece behind the plastic cam is so brittle retaining snaps were breaking off as I was trying to reassemble it.
 

fnny6770

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This is the cam I tried to replace
 

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Bextreme04

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Before I get too involved is this plastic piece you see here replaceable or do I have to replace the entire turn signal unit with wiring harness?
It goes into a 1980 GMC k35.
I replaced the entire white assembly as a single piece with the wiring harness on my 1980 K25. It was quick and easy, just plugs in at the base of the column.
 

fnny6770

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How did you route the wiring harness through the steering column?
 

fnny6770

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Also please tell me where you bought this turn signal assembly?
 

fnny6770

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I replaced the entire white assembly as a single piece with the wiring harness on my 1980 K25. It was quick and easy, just plugs in at the base of the column.
Did you have to disassemble the entire assembly to mount it into the steering column?
 

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This one comes with both GM ends (3 7/8 and 4 1/8) allows you to feed it into the column than push the pins into which ever end is correct for your application. Also, it fits stock columns not just ididit's.
 

Bextreme04

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Did you have to disassemble the entire assembly to mount it into the steering column?
nope, I just removed the three phillips head screws and pulled the assembly out if I remember correctly. I think it was a little bit of a PITA to get the harness pulled out. I think I tied something to the connector before pulling it out of the column, untied it, tied it to the new connector, then pulled the new connector back through using that string.

My assembly was sticky when triggering the turn signal and the stalk was loose. So I ordered a new one before disassembly. I needed to put a new lock cylinder in there anyways, so I did it all at the same time. Took about 20-30 minutes total to replace everything all at the same time.
 

Broken85

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You have to tear the steering wheel down to the tumbler, but you do not have to get near the tilt wheel or blinker/highbeam/cruise switch. Unbolt the column from under the dash too. There is a plastic sleeve like a conduit that the wires run from turn signal cam down to the column to the harness at the base of steering column.

Get a steering wheel compressing disassembly tool to get the snap ring out. They are like $25 in Amazon. Getting that plate off is much harder with out it and nearly impossible to to reinstall. I used some fiberglass pull string to fish it through the conduit with. It don’t fight me too much. It will fit through the column with the harness on, just turn it sideways.
 

fnny6770

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nope, I just removed the three phillips head screws and pulled the assembly out if I remember correctly. I think it was a little bit of a PITA to get the harness pulled out. I think I tied something to the connector before pulling it out of the column, untied it, tied it to the new connector, then pulled the new connector back through using that string.

My assembly was sticky when triggering the turn signal and the stalk was loose. So I ordered a new one before disassembly. I needed to put a new lock cylinder in there anyways, so I did it all at the same time. Took about 20-30 minutes total to replace everything all at the same time.
My lock assembly needs changed too so maybe it's better to do it now while the turn signal assembly is out?
 

Turbo4whl

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Now is the time to add the same switch from a full size GM sedan. It has the 3 extra wires for the cornering lights. You could wire it up when the headlights are on, powers up the turn signal cornering lights. And yes, you need to add the lights.

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Ricko1966

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If you don't want to buy or dont want to wait on a tool. It's an easy home build. Take a piece of strap iron 1.5 x4.5 approximately. Drill a 9/16 hole dead center, drill a 3/8 hole each side of it 1.25 inches. Now use 5/16ths bolts as pusher legs. Place the heads of the bolts against the lock plate, by loosening the nuts it will make the bolts longer depressing the lock plate. Trust me just make it you'll understand it when you use it. Kinda like this,but bolts and nuts as pushers.
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