Zinc/Phosphorus (ZDDP) for flat tappet engines

[jux]

I'm wondering how many members here use oil with high amounts of zinc and phosphorus (aka zddp). For those that don't already know, oils today are not like oils of yesteryear, and oil companies have slowly been taking away ZDDP from engine oils because it clogs up catalytic converters.

This is not a big issue for roller cam engines, but for most of us with flat tappets, there have been many reports of cam failure because of a lack of ZDDP. Zinc and phosphorus, in combination, provide high levels of protection against surface abrasion. It is recommended that these engines get at least 1,200 ppm ZDDP, whereas most oil today ranges from 500-700 ppm or less.

I personally use Valvoline VR1 Racing oil synthetic in 10w30. It is blue in color, has a high level of zddp, and also has a great detergent package. Although it says racing oil, it is also good for street use due to it's detergent package. It has been performing extremely well in my engine, and as a side note has cleaned my engine very well since I switched from conventional.

It is a thinner oil, which reduces wear at start up, among other benefits. One drawback is that because it is so thin, it was making its way out from between one of my valve covers above the #1 cylinder. I fixed the issue by using spreader bars on the tops of the valve covers as well as the bottom, and now I have no leaks.

So how many of you guys seek out high zinc/phos oils?

 

[dhamp]

I use the conventional VR-1 in my Chevelle 396. It always comes out clean, but I put hardly any miles on it between changes so that could be it. Before '09 it's always had standard conventional oils and no zinc additives. There hasn't been a cam failure, BUT that car hasn't seen more than a few hundred miles per year since the mid-80's.

 

[jux]

I would like to see that chevelle dhamp. VR1 should do it good.

Anyone out there using high zinc or does oil not matter anymore? I figured there would be at least some debate/discussion...

 

[chengny]

Shell Rotella T 15W40 is still testing out as having 1300ppm of ZDDP.

I get the 2.5 gallon jugs at Walmart - current in store price:

$32.47

I use that 2.5 gallons on a new/rebuilt engine (or after a cam/lifter renewal) for the first fill and the first oil change. Also add 1/2 bottle of Comp Cams Break-In Additive each time.

After that I switch to Mobil 1 (either 0W40 or 5W50 - whatever is available). Both are still high enough in ZDDP that I feel comfortable using it.

You must be registered for see images attach

The reason is that I am lax when it comes to changing my oil. So even though it's expensive (about $22/5 qt bottle at Walmart) M1 allows for much longer intervals between oil changes.

 

[chunkyrzr]

I use shell Rotella t recommended by engine builder. I have never had a problem with it and you can buy it pretty much anywhere.

 

[BigAl285]

Brad Penn is my first choice then it be VR-1

 

[77 K20]

I've been using Mobil 1 high mileage synthetic which has more zinc than normal Mobil 1. Then I still add a bit of Lucas engine oil break in additive to it.

I lost a few lobes on my camshaft a few years ago and didn't notice it for awhile. I was wondering why the engine keep making a popping or misfire when above 3000 RPM.

 

[nvrenuf]

I use Kendall Titanium in my new 454

 

[jux]

To let some of you know, rotella and other diesel oils have been losing their zddp too, to levels under 1000 ppm at the current API standards.

Also, I've been skeptical about zddp additives (as opposed to being mixed by the oil comp). I have seen data proving that zddp additives do not mix well in most oil, and that it actually lowers the effectiveness of the oil.

Has anyone used Quaker State Defy? It is said to have higher zddp levels. It is a blend of synth/conv and says that it is for flat tappet engines. I used it for awhile but was disappointed to find that it has high zinc (about 1200 ppm) but lower phos (8-900). Zinc and phos work hand in hand, they need each other for equal ppm's, I suspect that Defy targets people that have flat tappets, but don't have high phos to match zinc, so you are still buying a regular oil of today.

Mobil 1 high mileage, M1 0w40 european, etc, have enough in it that I might feel comfortable running them in a stock to very mild engine.

Thanks for responding guys, I knew there had to be others that were concerned about zddp levels.

 

[jux]

I wish I could find VR1 cheaper...

I've been paying 8 something a quart at the only place I can find it, Auto Zone.

And for those that care, I usually get purolator pureone oil filters. Second choice is Bosch or wix (bosch is a repainted, over priced purolator p1).

 

[dhamp]

I would like to see that chevelle dhamp. VR1 should do it good.

Anyone out there using high zinc or does oil not matter anymore? I figured there would be at least some debate/discussion...

I haven't started on her appearance yet. Just been tightening up a few mechanical things as I have time & when I'm at my mom's where it's stored until I build a new home for it. It runs pretty good now. This is the only decent pic I have right now.

 

[jux]

Ooooooooo, purdyyy!

I'm usually not a fan of red, but with the black stripes it looks pretty nice. Like the wheels too, are you planning on keeping them on it?

 

[Irishman999]

I run Lucas oil products exclusively. In the wifes fiat Abarth its straight light weight synthetic, in the Mustang I run parts house brand conventional with lucas oil stabilizer. In the big block I went with the same thing, conventional parts house brand oil and some zinc flavored break in oil from Lucas. After the break in I will run straight synthetic or just run conventional and lucas oil stabilizer.

 

[USMCk10]

Shell Rotella T 15W40 is still testing out as having 1300ppm of ZDDP.

I get the 2.5 gallon jugs at Walmart - current in store price:

$32.47

I use that 2.5 gallons on a new/rebuilt engine (or after a cam/lifter renewal) for the first fill and the first oil change. Also add 1/2 bottle of Comp Cams Break-In Additive each time.

After that I switch to Mobil 1 (either 0W40 or 5W50 - whatever is available). Both are still high enough in ZDDP that I feel comfortable using it.

You must be registered for see images attach

The reason is that I am lax when it comes to changing my oil. So even though it's expensive (about $22/5 qt bottle at Walmart) M1 allows for much longer intervals between oil changes.

I just replaced the cam and lifters (hydrolic flat tapped) in my 78 corvette. Comp cams extreme energy 268H and the break in was a breeze with Rotella. then i changed the oil after about 500 miles with rotella for the last time before switching to Mobile 1 10w30. I have never had a problem with this. Hope this helps.

Tim

 

[dhamp]

Ooooooooo, purdyyy!

I'm usually not a fan of red, but with the black stripes it looks pretty nice. Like the wheels too, are you planning on keeping them on it?

Not sure yet, but my last thought was go with some 20" black Boss 338's. The car originally had a black top on it, but it was never reinstalled after a repaint (I use that term loosely) in the 80's. Haven't decided it if I'll have it reinstalled this time or just have everything smoothed and make it a regular hardtop car. This is a local one that I like on chrome, but it's sitting on 22's and they're too big for my taste. 18's-20's for me.