Which coating for a long waiting period?

[Grit dog]

Don't want to point fingers. Some of the above information is wrong. Different paint brands have different procedures.

ASK WHAT YOU CAN AND CAN NOT DO AT A PAINT STORE!

Feel free to point fingers. Don’t be passive agressive. Hard for someone to learn if you just say “that’s wrong”

 

[Grit dog]

Well the body shop will be handling it all, because that's the one thing I don't like doing myself - Paint and body work. I'll leave that to the skilled professionals. So I'll just aks them, I'm sure they'll know what you can do with whatever they'll be using. To me it's well worth the money to pay someone who's already good at that job.





Would that result in a "higher build"? I've heard some painters say "We don't want it to build too high" or something like that. I ask because I'm one of those people who can see when a paint job is too thick. Maybe everybody can see that, but I don't like the thicker paint look. The factory paint is something like 100 micrometers, or 4 to 7 mils thick. I'd love to have it be factory thickness, but maybe that's not possible in the real world.



I always wanted to know what that black coating is, that they ship new parts with. So if you order a new fender, or a hood or something, and it's covered in black. That stuff is pretty tough.

So you’re having a body shop do everything….then why are you asking all these detailed questions? Just to verify they are going to do it right? If that’s part of the equation don’t use the drunk guy down the street that can do it cheaper.
This whole thread just got weird.

 

[Grit dog]

Well the body shop will be handling it all, because that's the one thing I don't like doing myself - Paint and body work. I'll leave that to the skilled professionals. So I'll just aks them, I'm sure they'll know what you can do with whatever they'll be using. To me it's well worth the money to pay someone who's already good at that job.





Would that result in a "higher build"? I've heard some painters say "We don't want it to build too high" or something like that. I ask because I'm one of those people who can see when a paint job is too thick. Maybe everybody can see that, but I don't like the thicker paint look. The factory paint is something like 100 micrometers, or 4 to 7 mils thick. I'd love to have it be factory thickness, but maybe that's not possible in the real world.



I always wanted to know what that black coating is, that they ship new parts with. So if you order a new fender, or a hood or something, and it's covered in black. That stuff is pretty tough.

You literally should just let the body shop handle it. You don’t even conceptually understand on a basic level, what the process is.
And say what? You don’t know a thing about paint and bodywork, as admitted, but you can tell when paint is too thick? Lol
Love to hear how you can tell that when you can’t even understand what I told you and are talking about buildup and thickness in the same context with basic bare metal rust proofing primer.

 

[Grit dog]

and your second question, do what all you need to do other than body and do body last. Saves time and hassle.

Ya maybe. Depends on the complexity and intricacies of the build.
Which to OP hasn’t divulged and probably doesn’t even know what he’s gonna do.

 

[fast 99]

Feel free to point fingers. Don’t be passive agressive. Hard for someone to learn if you just say “that’s wrong”

Actually..... without knowing the brand and product used, asking generic painting questions on a forum is a recipe for disaster. What I will say, products that allow rust underneath are not a sealers. Can not apply color directly over color, can not paint over rust, surfacer absorbs 80% of it's weight in water. Not desirable over bare steel. I know there are products for sealing rust but we are talking automotive finishes.

Will take one of my statements back. May want to verify what a paint store says. I previously posted a paint store sold me wrong product and gave me incorrect application procedures this week. Guess today we need to go all the way back to the manufacturer. The counter person I worked with for over 15 years [and really trusted] retired. Replacement isn't quite up to speed.

 

[PhotonFanatic]

So you’re having a body shop do everything….then why are you asking all these detailed questions? Just to verify they are going to do it right? If that’s part of the equation don’t use the drunk guy down the street that can do it cheaper.
This whole thread just got weird.

The reason for asking these question is clearly stated in the OP. I wanted them to get all the dents out, and then I bring it home and work on it. When I'm done, then they paint it. This isn't something weird, you see primer trucks sitting around all the time. Also driving around. I just wanted to know what those guys were using exactly because I had heard that moisture can be bad for some primers.

Whatever their specific reasons are, those people didn't want paint just yet. I'm one of those people. Not exactly sure how you would get "weird" from any of that. And it's all there in the OP...

This must be one of those times where somebody didn't read and just skipped a bunch of stuff and commented.

 

[PhotonFanatic]

You don’t even conceptually understand on a basic level, what the process is.
And say what? You don’t know a thing about paint and bodywork, as admitted, but you can tell when paint is too thick? Lol
Love to hear how you can tell that when you can’t even understand what I told you and are talking about buildup and thickness in the same context with basic bare metal rust proofing primer.

You really need to read and try to understand the thread you replied to. Yes I'm a paint and body newb. For some reason, you think this must mean I "don’t know a thing about paint and bodywork". Please cite specifically where I said anything like that.

As for the paint thickness, that's something else that should be obvious to you... anyone with good eyes can see paint flaws, man. I think you've been inhaling too many of those paint fumes.

 

[Camar068]

Ya maybe. Depends on the complexity and intricacies of the build.
Which to OP hasn’t divulged and probably doesn’t even know what he’s gonna do.

yeh I didn't mention my thoughts are if it's a daily driver.

 

[PhotonFanatic]

yeh I didn't mention my thoughts are if it's a daily driver.

There was no need for any further information. If someone can't answer the question merely from the information I provided in the OP, nothing I else I can say will be able to help them.

Reading comprehension isn't all that great among some members lol. But that's anywhere.

 

[Grit dog]

You really need to read and try to understand the thread you replied to. Yes I'm a paint and body newb. For some reason, you think this must mean I "don’t know a thing about paint and bodywork". Please cite specifically where I said anything like that.

As for the paint thickness, that's something else that should be obvious to you... anyone with good eyes can see paint flaws, man. I think you've been inhaling too many of those paint fumes.

I won’t continue the back n forth. But to say, you cannot physically “see” paint thickness. If you could there wouldn’t be paint thickness gauges/meters. If you’re talking visual or procedural defects or whatever, isn’t necessarily related to the depth of the paint or number of coats.
But your trained eye maybe can see if there’s 2 coats of clear or 6? Or how much filler primer is under a particular spot?
Again, since you’re taking it to a body shop for all the prep and the painting, they will know what to do.
Also back to your original question, if it’s sitting indoors, whether it’s humid or not, basically any type of primer will hold up indefinitely.

 

[Camar068]

There was no need for any further information. If someone can't answer the question merely from the information I provided in the OP, nothing I else I can say will be able to help them.

Reading comprehension isn't all that great among some members lol. But that's anywhere.

put bed liner on the whole thing. If someone can't tell from simple text that simple primer to protect it and CONTINUE to protect it (over possible a year or so easily) pushes your douche, do ur thing dude.

 

[PhotonFanatic]

put bed liner on the whole thing. If someone can't tell from simple text that simple primer to protect it and CONTINUE to protect it (over possible a year or so easily) pushes your douche, do ur thing dude.

I guess you're trying to say something. I don't think anyone knows what though.

 

[Grit dog]

Actually..... without knowing the brand and product used, asking generic painting questions on a forum is a recipe for disaster. What I will say, products that allow rust underneath are not a sealers. Can not apply color directly over color, can not paint over rust, surfacer absorbs 80% of it's weight in water. Not desirable over bare steel. I know there are products for sealing rust but we are talking automotive finishes.

Will take one of my statements back. May want to verify what a paint store says. I previously posted a paint store sold me wrong product and gave me incorrect application procedures this week. Guess today we need to go all the way back to the manufacturer. The counter person I worked with for over 15 years [and really trusted] retired. Replacement isn't quite up to speed.

Not to nit pick but there are products that are designed (for automotive finishes) to go straight over “rust”. Light flash rust. And they do seal the surface. Is it the best practice? I don’t believe it is, but rust (oxidation) needs air and moisture to propagate and if you remove both, oxidation doesn’t continue to occur.
However “can’t paint color over color” is wholly false. You can and there’s nothing wrong with doing it. Now you could paint (ie color coat base or single stage) over poor quality paint or paint that has bonding issues or paint that melts from the new coat (same for primer though) and have a multitude of issues either short term or long term. But those issues are not due to painting over paint or clear that is properly prepped.

 

[Grit dog]

I guess you're trying to say something. I don't think anyone knows what though.

I think he may have been insinuating that you asked questions and then got defensive or antagonistic over the responses, which were honest helpful responses.
Also I don’t know everything and it may be beneficial for you to explain (for me anyway) how you can look at a painted surface and tell how thick it is or if it’s too thick, as you put it.

 

[legopnuematic]

Also I don’t know everything and it may be beneficial for you to explain (for me anyway) how you can look at a painted surface and tell how thick it is or if it’s too thick, as you put it.

I can think of a couple things that would suggest excessive layers/build/thickness, but they are all prep (lips and *ssholes from poor sanding, heavy feathering, chips, and checks)/spray flaws(runs and sags)/no hiding of evidence (sanding said runs/sags/fixing prep issues) issues so to speak.

Non by the actual paint itself.