What have you done to your square lately??

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AyWoSch Motors

The Parts Guy
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Ayden
Truck Year
1986
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K1500 Sierra
Engine Size
350ci V8
Made some big leaps on my 78 k20 engine.
Got the heads torqued down, the starter in, the starter all wired up and working, the harmonic balancer and crank pulley wheel on, the exhaust manifolds on, got lifters, pushrod, and rockers in and lash preset, spun the oil pump until oil came out of the rockers, got the intake manifold on and torqued down, the thermostat and water inlet bell installed, the distributor plopped in and set perfectly to exactly like it was when I took it out, the water pump, power steering pump, and fuel pump in, the water pump pulley and fan on, a couple little sensors in place, and the main positive and negative cables redone and in.
Made my own starter switch, got it to crank over happily.
Hopefully tomorrow I can get the carb on, some fuel lines hooked up, and steal some plugs and wires from my 305, and maybe get it to fire up.
For the truck, first time in like 5 years, for the engine, first time since 1998. Thatd be nice.
 

AuroraGirl

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Hmm, that's what I suspected. I need more of a "manifold shrinker".
Might be able to take the ones of my core engine. They've been bolted up all this time, hopefully there still the same size.
the only difference between them fitting and not is how much pressure you need to ram that square peg into the round hole. God made you the hammer and everythign else is nails. you know what to do

and when they break or you break or crack some bolt holes on the head...... what do you do, those old smog heads ya know they just keep findidng ways to disappoint. yup. the heads. Can you show us the alignment of your manifolds? if they arent THAT bad you should be able to ream a hole straight if it was slightly pointed outward but like almost fit, because the angle of attack may be the problem more than how far to one side.. but this would be a flatness thing not so much warp outward like pivot wise from the center part.
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have an AC mount like that green brace frommiddle to front? Maybe could be used to encourage discourse in those,,, bolt receptacles(that sounds less bad but its still gonna make someone giggle... well call it a draw) .maybe
then there is that upside down U shape piece at the back. No idea what the **** that is for but the two SBC have them between someebolt holes. Maybe it does something
 

AyWoSch Motors

The Parts Guy
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Ayden
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K1500 Sierra
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350ci V8
Hmm, that's what I suspected. I need more of a "manifold shrinker".
Might be able to take the ones of my core engine. They've been bolted up all this time, hopefully there still the same size.
So today I rechecked all 3 sets manifolds I had laying around. None fit, still fighting me, even with the persuasion of a prybar.
Took the ones off my core motor. They fit just fine. Got everything bolted up with no issue. Those were still bolted up to the engine, so I guess in the time it took me to swap them over, they didn't change size, haha.
Only problem is, they're from a 98 Tahoe, so they don't fit my premade chevy header pipes I had, so now I'll have to make something different, and the drivers side has a hole in it for an EGR line, so I'll have to find a cap for that. But they bolted up, so no big deal.
 

AuroraGirl

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We just keep turning the key and it just keeps thumping along.
Knock on wood it stays that way.

Soon though, it will get new tires.
These were pretty well done in August of 2019 when we bought the wheels.
Now they are bald because Max likes big block burnouts...

Just have to figure out what ones I want.
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im impressed with Wildpeak AT3. I have a load range C 15 inch on my f150 rear axle and they have been wearing great despite my.... im not going to say it because that is what she would have literally said if I do, but.. DOGTRACKING... its wearing nice. they ride well compared to goodshit range-spurs (goodyear wranglers) and way better tire all around. Its a lower cost, okay tread life tire but its been impressive to me.

I went down my long, steep driveway with some ruts in it... with a flat tire.. albeit downhill not uphill. I couldnt tell because of the ruts jostle it so much even slow it was no change. I Took off left from our driveway and drove no less than 100 feet and stopped in a gentle attempt, ran up my driveway(no lights, coyotes were everywhere and I had to get tire inflator and get back and flashlight so I was like, lets speed it up. I got up my hill and I rememberred why I Drive vehicles and that im no longer spry chicken from HS. Well the walk down was a pleaant time.

I drove on pavement with that tire the same distane as the driveway almost, and it wasnt "far" by means of trying to milk it to a air pump or something, it was just flat and I drove with the f150 mostly favoring the front because downhill and not leveled, , but I must say I didnt expect the tire to be ok. i aired it enough to get up the driveway and turned compressor on mostly to remind the neighbor we live here, because We think he forgets sometimes when hes having verbal arguments at 1am with his wife outside..... or driving ATVs near our property line.... which is direct shot like 300 feet from my window.... and letting his dumb kids Roam like ferals, doing hood rat **** but in the woods. So busting windows in my cutlass and clearly having done a ****** in late spring in our back yard way back....(ATV)

ANYWAY At3 tire, yeah it was great. I aired up after checking partial air up, , jacked up truck and did full inspection. it didnt break beed or shift thank god, no bulges, and no bad rash or similar issue. I cleaned the dirty spot (looked like the brown tire from someones spray stuff lol) and it was good as before.
Reason for leak was valve core, I checked next day and the seal was distorted and the thing was.. bent.. kinda. I dont really understand what happend because it only lost air like that once in jan. But the threads looked a little stripped too, so I didnt exactly chase the threads fearing I would need a new stem, but I found some that were.. new in box but had a Lead warning on box... said on a google search it has lead and a plating to prevent direct contact so it was less carinogenic but Idk, lead to me seems like a really soft element to use for that, but it installed, possibly the lead is to distort the core on install into where it seats and provide a rather fit seal, with the rubber doing backup to my understanding. I also put a metal cap with seal on(brass stem so not worried about aaluminum). I had one nail at a shallow angle enter a tread block and it didnt do anything, but its possible the shallow angle just poked the tread and then pushed against the tread once it contact gronund. Good enogh for me. My shoes pickup more nails. Specifically where I the shoes are slightly worn too..


AT3 is good

at least better than michellin whatever these expensive ones are... wrench was on ground, tires were less than 5k

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AuroraGirl

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So today I rechecked all 3 sets manifolds I had laying around. None fit, still fighting me, even with the persuasion of a prybar.
Took the ones off my core motor. They fit just fine. Got everything bolted up with no issue. Those were still bolted up to the engine, so I guess in the time it took me to swap them over, they didn't change size, haha.
Only problem is, they're from a 98 Tahoe, so they don't fit my premade chevy header pipes I had, so now I'll have to make something different, and the drivers side has a hole in it for an EGR line, so I'll have to find a cap for that. But they bolted up, so no big deal.
i think they more or less get tension on the bolts shear-wise and then when you remove you pretty much back the bolt out and it probably shifts? I have no idea

BUT THANKS checking my pics for your thingg i posted a suggestion for made me realize I have 2 different manifolds on square. Is that... I am going to assume even the same diameter is gonna be technically a problem, for something.
 

PeteJr

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John Nes

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I don't want to be the barer of bad news.................You'll never be done......ever!!!!! LOL
Lol yeah yeah yeah, I know I know…but hell, minus the paint, it’s almost back to factory original inside n out and everything works as intended, so I’d say it’s just about done and nearly ready for its new owner to take it
 

Ellie Niner

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LE9 305
Finally got around to installing the cargo light properly... with switch and all. It only took about 18 years, and now I can quit using my reverse lights for loading lights and general area illumination...
 

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Grit dog

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So today I rechecked all 3 sets manifolds I had laying around. None fit, still fighting me, even with the persuasion of a prybar.
Took the ones off my core motor. They fit just fine. Got everything bolted up with no issue. Those were still bolted up to the engine, so I guess in the time it took me to swap them over, they didn't change size, haha.
Only problem is, they're from a 98 Tahoe, so they don't fit my premade chevy header pipes I had, so now I'll have to make something different, and the drivers side has a hole in it for an EGR line, so I'll have to find a cap for that. But they bolted up, so no big deal.
I recall a similar issue long time ago, 80s 305 engine manifolds onto a much older small block. Never gave much thought other than they must just be different. Strange deal though.
From AGs post, one possible solution maybe? If not off by much could you oversize the offending manifold hole(s)?
Cast iron is easy to drill.
 

Goldie Driver

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Rough stuff - an oil change yesterday.

Seems like after the new plugs, carb gasket, and vacuum line for the charcoal cannister it is smoking less, but I do need to get off my azz and either change the valve cover gaskets or pay to have them done , which I did maybe 2 years ago and apparently even pro mechanics have issues with the round of the cast head and sealing.

:emotions33:

maybe then I'd know how much is internal loss vs the external loss.

:Grenade:
 

Doppleganger

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Finally got around to installing the cargo light properly... with switch and all. It only took about 18 years, and now I can quit using my reverse lights for loading lights and general area illumination...
Was this on a truck that didn't have one originally?
 

Ellie Niner

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LE9 305
Was this on a truck that didn't have one originally?
It had one half-assedly installed by either a dealer or a prior owner. They basically poked three holes in the back of the cab (see photo); the center one was for a pigtail that went directly to the dome light, so the cargo light came on whenever the dome light was on, whether you wanted it or not.

I removed everything and taped over the holes after a cop pulled me over for "white light shining to the rear" one night when I was rummaging around for something while driving... kept planning on doing the install correctly, and finally did two decades later.
 

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Doppleganger

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It had one half-assedly installed by either a dealer or a prior owner. They basically poked three holes in the back of the cab (see photo); the center one was for a pigtail that went directly to the dome light, so the cargo light came on whenever the dome light was on, whether you wanted it or not.

I removed everything and taped over the holes after a cop pulled me over for "white light shining to the rear" one night when I was rummaging around for something while driving... kept planning on doing the install correctly, and finally did two decades later.
You did a nice job. I'd like to have one but not sure if I have the kahunas to cut a hole in my cab.
 

Ellie Niner

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You did a nice job. I'd like to have one but not sure if I have the kahunas to cut a hole in my cab.
Thanks! I think the cutting bit was part of the reason I stalled so long... but the truth is that you *do* have a fair amount of leeway with both the light and the switch, as they are a bit bigger than the actual holes, so can cover up minor screwups.

I drive and work a lot at night, so any additional source of illumination comes in handy... not sure if I'd go to the bother of installing a cargo light if I really wasn't gonna use it, though.
 

Octane

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Funny thing,for years I thought a cargo light would be cool.Finally,the last few trucks have had them. Have repaired leaks on every single one.Found out all I needed anyway was to back a truck up and turn on the porch or security light somewhere and those leaks (and cargo lights) went away.lol.
 

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