Vibration in clutch pedal

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Lu Blunt

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My thinking has always been, you can buy a $15k used truck and have it paid off in 5 years but end up with a used truck that’s not long from a rebuild. Or buy a $1500 truck and put $15k into over 5 years and end up with a “like-new” truck. This old dually has always got the job done and made it home. The tired small block is the only thing holding it back. Honestly even a rebuilt 350 would be an improvement but I’d really like to keep up with modern trucks while towing. My budget is around $10k.

https://cfm.industries/gm-squarebody-h-d-replacement-engine-crossmember/
$300

https://cfm.industries/gm-squarebody-h-d-replacement-motor-mount-pair/
$145

http://www.speedcooling.com/1973-19...SxJCRs9Hr79kRiRPyb67tnn6tSnpjO9kaAvfGEALw_wcB
$470. I’m not sure how tall the current radiator is but I’d like to upgrade to something like this.

https://www.cvfracing.com/black-che...onversion-kit-power-steering-long-water-pump/
~$700 something like this to mount accessories. I’ll upgrade alternator too. Not sure if I can re use my current power steering pump... it’s the factory hydroboost pump and was recently rebuilt

https://www.holley.com/products/exhaust/headers_and_exhaust_manifolds/all_headers/parts/2463-1HKR
$565. They recommend breaking in a new engine with factory exhaust manifold or old headers. May have to find some used exhaust manifolds

My biggest decision is carb or efi. If I go efi I’ll need a new fuel tank/cell. Holly makes a stock style tank that works with its sniper efi. Holly efi $1300+ efi tank $600 + efi ignition system $500 = $2,400. i haven’t had any trouble with my carb the last 5 years so not sure if it’s worth the expense. I’d like to get the 502HO but wouldn’t mind the 454HO to keep costs down.

my county doesn’t test emissions so no worries there. I’m currently sbc so I’m looking for a more complete crate engine. I agree, being able to get warranty work at local Chevy dealer is the main reason I’m looking at GM Performance
 
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Lu Blunt

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Talked to the mechanic today and he said the wrong style clutch was installed. Should have been a diaphragm clutch not a finger clutch. To fix the clutch and reseal transfer case will be $700 for parts/gear oil and about $300 in labor. Not horrible I guess. But I don’t want to setup a clutch for sbc if I’m going big block. Everyone i talked to says $10k is a lot of money to put into an old truck. Should I go with a cheaper less powerful motor? Also my mechanic suggested Haltech over Holley efi any thoughts on this ?
 

bucket

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Talked to the mechanic today and he said the wrong style clutch was installed. Should have been a diaphragm clutch not a finger clutch. To fix the clutch and reseal transfer case will be $700 for parts/gear oil and about $300 in labor. Not horrible I guess. But I don’t want to setup a clutch for sbc if I’m going big block. Everyone i talked to says $10k is a lot of money to put into an old truck. Should I go with a cheaper less powerful motor? Also my mechanic suggested Haltech over Holley efi any thoughts on this ?

Honestly, whatever you want to do that doesn't put you in the poorhouse is what you should do. All of those questions will get opinionated answers, so just do what makes you happy with the truck:)
 

Snoots

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Honestly, whatever you want to do that doesn't put you in the poorhouse is what you should do. All of those questions will get opinionated answers, so just do what makes you happy with the truck:)

What @bucket said.
But I NEVER heard of a 3-finger or diaphram clutch being 'wrong'.
 

WFO

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What @bucket said.
But I NEVER heard of a 3-finger or diaphram clutch being 'wrong'.
Me either. Maybe it had the rounded face diaphragm type throwout bearing with a 3 finger clutch, instead of a flat faced one.
 

Lu Blunt

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Took 3 weeks to get an appointment at this shop. My truck sat for 2 weeks before he even looked at it. Quoted me $1000 out the door. I gave the go ahead to do the work. I expressed wanting to swap motors and he was supposed to get me the size of the stock clutch but I never heard back. I started ordering parts for the swap. Another week went by and called to check progress (there was none) I told him I didn’t want the swap to stop him from getting the clutch fixed. He said his lift had been tied up n so he couldn’t work on it for a bit. that was last Wednesday. He called me today saying he’s not taking anymore new work and needs me to drop money off so he can order parts and get the truck fixed. Not sure why he waited till now to ask for money. I’ve never paid a shop prior to the work being done. If he didn’t have the trans n tcase already pulled I would trailer it somewhere else
 

DoubleDingo

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No luck yet. Been driving the truck pretty regularly since the new clutch. Kept thinking the vibration was the clutch assembly or possibly the clutch arm return spring. Found a decent return spring to replace the broken one. Helped alittle. Found if I hold the clutch pedal like an inch or two down (not enough to engage it) I can keep the vibration to a minimum. Drove like that for 5k miles or more. Recently the vibration has gotten so bad I can barely drive it. Looks like the trucks headed back to the shop. Not sure what else to do.

A good way fry the throwout bearing.
 

DoubleDingo

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Sure hope he doesn't screw you over.
 

Lu Blunt

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A good way fry the throwout bearing.

thats exactly what happened. I won’t make that mistake again. But what can I say, I needed the truck for work so I kept driving it knowing it was getting worse.

Stopped by the mechanics after work yesterday. He had the write up for my truck with all the parts n labor listed. Total before tax n gear oil was $713. I paid $700 n told him Id pay the remainder when the truck was done. I hate paying before the work is done but my truck in pieces in his yard so no much choice. He comes highly recommend from my previous mechanic that’s now retired. Said the truck will be done Monday or Tuesday. I’m excited to get my truck back. I have brand rotors n calipers, braided brake lines, ord crossover steering, new steering box. Parts are coming for the big block swap. I’m thinking I might tryn find an 8.1 vortec instead of putting efi on a crate motor
 

DoubleDingo

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Engine Size
Carb'ed Vortec 350; 1972 L48 350
That's good he is getting it done. Monday-Tuesday isn't that far out. I know nothing about big blocks, but a vortec would be a nice engine to put in there
 

Snoots

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Took 3 weeks to get an appointment at this shop. My truck sat for 2 weeks before he even looked at it. Quoted me $1000 out the door. I gave the go ahead to do the work. I expressed wanting to swap motors and he was supposed to get me the size of the stock clutch but I never heard back. I started ordering parts for the swap. Another week went by and called to check progress (there was none) I told him I didn’t want the swap to stop him from getting the clutch fixed. He said his lift had been tied up n so he couldn’t work on it for a bit. that was last Wednesday. He called me today saying he’s not taking anymore new work and needs me to drop money off so he can order parts and get the truck fixed. Not sure why he waited till now to ask for money. I’ve never paid a shop prior to the work being done. If he didn’t have the trans n tcase already pulled I would trailer it somewhere else

I'd write a check, tear it in half, and tell him he'll get the other half when it's done.
 

Lu Blunt

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Got the truck back. Here’s a quick list of the parts I had replaced. Clutch, pressure plate, clutch fork, pivot ball, machined flywheel, front and rear seals on tcase. 6.5hr labor for the clutch and 2 hrs labor for the tcase. Total parts n labor was $1017. The truck drives great. No noise from the clutch pedal, shifts good, everything feels tight n right.
 

DoubleDingo

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81-C20 Silverado Camper Special-TH400-4.10s; 65-C20 with 4:57 gears and Borg Warner Overdrive
Engine Size
Carb'ed Vortec 350; 1972 L48 350
Got the truck back. Here’s a quick list of the parts I had replaced. Clutch, pressure plate, clutch fork, pivot ball, machined flywheel, front and rear seals on tcase. 6.5hr labor for the clutch and 2 hrs labor for the tcase. Total parts n labor was $1017. The truck drives great. No noise from the clutch pedal, shifts good, everything feels tight n right.

That's good. Took a while, but you have it now, and it's right.
 

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