Hello. Need everyone's help and advice again. Instead of posting a bunch of threads, thought I'd combine my questions/issues. Please help as I am pretty dumb and no tech background on this stuff.
86 K10 with 1T axel swap/350 4speed with low manual 4" lift on 35's
1. I've noticed some K10 have dual rear shocks. This has singles. Is that why the ride is SO rough?
2. All shock where they bolt onto the frame are loose. Shouldn't they be tight?
3. It turned fine but went for ride on a rough road and now clunks when turn wheel to make a semi-sharp turn. Feel clunk by feet but sounds up front. Steering gear box has oil all over it. Any ideas?
4. When let off the gas and stay in gear, sounds as if transmission, engine and drive shafts clunk. Pretty loud and will jar the cab. Seems as if mounts are loose. Is that possible?
5. When driving around, the interior gets hot as heck. Fans are off, vents on cool but seems hot air fills the cab. Almost as if heater is on and makes it hard to drive on warm days. Any remedy for this?
Guys, sorry for my stupidity, I'm trying to learn. Thank you in advance for your help.
Here's my take...
1. I'm almost certain quad shocks were an RPO, but my brother's K10 and my Jimmy both have the single shocks. No, I don't think this is why. I think issue number one and two maybe related, and tightening them up will remedy your issue to some degree. Another thing is that you have a full floating front and rear axle with zero independence in the front and rear suspension like a car or C truck or most any other truck for that matter. Yet another is the lift. A lifted truck is going to ride rougher than a stock stanced truck, no doubt. There are things you can check like cab mount bushings to try and help it out, but good shocks and good tires are your best weapons against a rough ride in K trucks.
2. Yes, tighten them. And try a bounce test to see if they need to be replaced. If you push up and down on all four corners, and it stops bouncing after say 1-3 bounces, you're good. If it goes on longer, you can at least improve your ride some by replacing.
3. There are a bunch of seals and gaskets in the Saginaw steering box. You may have had a seal or gasket go out inside, or you're leaking at a shaft. You could be leaking at the end of the hoses, too, which is an easier fix. The seal kit is super cheap, and there are write ups on how to rebuild them. You could try cleaning the steering box, topping off your PS pump, purging any air out of it by turning your wheel back and forth to both stops, putting in some UV leak dye, driving it, and seeing where your leak is with a UV light. That's only if the leak source is not manifestly apparent. Me, I would like more details on the leak. Also, check for play in your steering linkages (tie rod ends, pitman arm, idler arm) because the clunking could be related to that. Just jack up your truck up front, grab a tire at the three and nine o'clock positions, and wiggle side to side. If it moves, I'd get a buddy to do it, and see if you can identify the parts that have play. Everything's right there in front of you so if there's a bad piece, you should see it moving. Just be careful.
4. Ehh, I would get under it, grab the rear driveshaft, and try to rotate it with your hands. If it has play, you need to replace your universal joints. If you want to be meticulous, you can do the same for the front shaft. You can check the four cab mounts and their bushings, which you should probably have checked in regard to a previous bullet point. The bolts should be tight, well recessed, and the bushings should be nice and plump. If they're cracked and disintegrating, they should be replaced. I think they make some urethane bushings which would last far longer than the old rubber ones. That is if you plan on keeping the vehicle. If you want to check, your motor mounts going bad can cause some unwanted roughness and vibration. Have a buddy start the car and watch the motor while they do it. If it pretty well stays in place, you're good. If it contrives and jumps around, replace them. Even if it moves more than you feel comfortable with, you can still do it. Motor mounts are cheap.
5. Does your AC work? I just counter this issue on mine with that, but even without it, it's not that noticeable. You may have the vent blend door not closing as much as it should, and you're dissipating heat from the engine into the cab. You can pull the HVAC controller out and check the vacuum lines from that vantage point, they're all under your feet, and they're under the hood, too. A member authored a nice write up on identifying those lines (
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2875). It'd be good to check to see that nothing's broken, disconnected, or melting. It happens. I've fixed those things on both of mine. Otherwise, if it were me, I'd talk to an auto HVAC tech. This is the only one I'm a tad murky on. I also didn't realize until part way in that your truck is lifted pretty good. All those procedures are equally applicable, but I just envisioned a stock stance truck in writing them. Good luck and hope this helps at least some.
