No such thing as air trapped in the return line. That’s where you have the filter, right?
And btw, a new reman pump is like $40-50. If yours is messed up, It’s messed up. Of course your truck will be harder to turn the wheels with a plow hanging off it. Get a new pump if you intend to actually use the truck or is your goal to only use 40 year old random used parts of unknown condition?
again you havent read my posts. This was just to replace the completely twacked pump, but i wasnt about to put a new pump on my engine until I had the alignment of the belts fixed. thats just dumb. The bearings on both alternator and power steering were just toast, and those belts looked pretty bad too. They were both incorrectly aligned and etc. THese are a pump and alternator that were on a shelf and an engine i have laying around. The pump works fine, it just does, but the only thing i notice is the choppy part. I have the filter on the pump return line, yes. But because of how the return barb sticks out on this one, i had to route the hose for the return a different way and it already had a 90 degree elbow in line so I have like 3 directional changes in 2 feet or so of line, and I was just going off this
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But regardless if that is the cause, I was going to simplify my return line setup(not a bad thing..?) and bleed air with my mightyvac. I have a homeade air bleeder for it that i made 2 years ago from a corvette oil cap and a air compressor fitting. worked really well on a 2001.
But anyway, reducing the amount of bends and restrictions in my return line and bleeding air extensively i dont see as hurting or making things worse. if after that, i have issues, I was going to check pulley sizes and try to find the math on that. I dont want to have my pump rebuilt( I was gonna go rebuild option, buy a nicer reservoir, etc) and throw a bad pulley or wear the bearing with a out of alignment belt
on the alternator, I am using my gauge as well as dmm. Im asking because I read elsewhere and here in this forum that a 10si needs resistance in a wire that finds its way through a light in the cluster or else it doesnt work at its rated capacity or in the lower rpm as much. I dont want to throw an alternator at the truck if this one works fine. It will need an alternator anyway, but that was beyond the point. I have a cs130 that I would like to put on, but again it comes back to pulley alignment. If these bearings are gonna get ruined by improper alignment i dont want to put them on right away,
I have working used parts that I would much rather be sacrificial lambs than buying new parts and throw them at the issue without fixing the underlying problems. Once I have the underlying things fixed, a new part is much easier to justify the cost of and would also mean im not doing it again later.
I was also gonna be changing the charge wire because regardless of if the fusible link is good, my reading has indicated a cs130 might overpower the original wire especially when age and heat cycling are considered
ANd way future, I would like to repair my AD237 alternator and use on the truck, but that is likely going to need some other changes because that alternator is frankly a little big for my brackets.
BUT in researching more for that on a quick search I learned that a 10si on a shelf will eventually loose magnetism and has to be re-excited. I think 20+ years is more than fair for losing magnetism from the factory 35 years ago. I will try that right away.
