Turbo 350 problems.

[Tricky991]

Hey everyone I am new here, but I have been checking this site out for awhile and it has helped me alot.

I am having problems with a turbo 350 I just swapped in. To give a a little back story...

I bought the truck about 3-4 years ago. The previous owner kept everything maintained all receipts all that. Well he said that I probably wouldn't make it home 100+ miles. Because the trans leaked so much. Well I bought it good price at the time. Checked the fluid all the way home, barely dropped never got near ad though.

Anyways fast forward, it started making a clanking noise when idling. Turned out that the torque converter was lose on the flex plate. Which I didn't know till the torque converter stopped working. Replaced the TC 4 times, as each one stopped working. To find out I had a 350-C. So finally got the right lockup TC. Worked fine for about a month.

But it damaged each TC before causing metal shavings to go in the trans. So it finally died.

So now last Wednesday I went and picked up a non-lockup 350 trans from pick n pull. Drained the fluid, cleaned the pan, new filter, new seals, put in fresh fluid and Lucas trans fix. I got it in last night, worked like a dream compared to the old on. I believe it has a new valve body then stock. It shifted so perfect and fine.

To day I was driving around town and as it shifted into 2nd I could feel the drive train lurch/hop. So I let off the gas, and then tried again and it did the same thing but then it stopped and started slipping. And now it wont move unless you barely apply any throttle. To much and it feels like neutral but just barely on it.

And it drives fine does hop/lurch a little still when shifting to 2nd and 3rd. When it did that I pulled over checked the fluid and it was just a hair over full, but the fluid has a orange tint to it. not nice and Red. Was able to make it home only about 3miles. Even over hills didn't slip or slow down. But just barely could use any throttle. Was able to get up to 50mph though.


So yeah sorry for that long story. I love my 85' c10 Sliverado. The engine is great and strong in it. I was so happy it was working again till this :/ And pulling and putting that trans in by my self with just a floor jack is tiring lol.

So yeah my question, is think changing the fluid and filter would fix it? Or should I just take it out and back to pick n pull before my 90 days run out?

Or do you guys think its something clogged in the valve body? Also I am running it with out the detent cable, but I was easy on it.

 

[chengny]

Nowhere in your account of all these transmission/TC failures and subsequent replacements/repairs do I see any mention of the cooler being flushed. After any type of transmission failure it is imperative that the ATF cooler section of the radiator be checked for sufficient flow and thoroughly flushed.

When a transmission suffers a catastrophic failure, a large quantity of fine metallic debris is generated. This particulate matter will migrate to the cooler and quickly plug up the tiny tubes that the cooler is constructed of.

Consequently, if the cooler is not cleaned and flushed after a transmission failure, any newly installed replacement transmission is doomed to a premature death - due to overheating. The process of flushing the cooler can be time consuming, expensive and dirty. It is often more cost effective to simply replace the entire radiator. That way you can be sure that you are starting your new transmission off with an efficient cooler.


A/T - Cooler Replacement/Flushing


BULLETIN NO: 93-7A-97

SECTION: 7A Automatic Transmission

NUMBER: 14

CORPORATE REFERENCE NO: 367102R

DATE: July, 1993

SUBJECT:
Information on Automatic Transmission Cooler Replacement

MODELS:
1993 and Prior Light Duty Trucks Equipped with Automatic Transmissions

When inspection of an inoperative automatic transmission reveals metal material in the oil pan, the transmission oil cooler (located in the radiator end tank) must be replaced. The cooler lines must also be flushed to prevent any debris from entering the transmission oil cooler or the transmission.

If inspection reveals friction material or fluid contamination (but no metal), the transmission cooler must be flushed and a flow check MUST be performed. It is essential to flush the cooler after SRTA installation, major overhaul, in the case of pump or torque converter replacement, or when fluid contamination is suspected. Use Kent-Moore tool J35944 and solvent J35944-20 to flush the cooler. Follow the instructions published in each Service Manual, Section 7A, On Vehicle Service, Transmission Cooler Flushing.


A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flow Test


INFORMATION

Bulletin No.: 02-07-30-052H

Date: March 26, 2012

Subject: Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flow Test Essential Tool J-45096 TransFlow(R)

Models:

2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks

Equipped with Automatic Transmission/Transaxle including Allison(R) Transmissions

Attention:
For model years 2012 and later, refer to SI for "Transmission Fluid Cooler Flushing and Flow Test" procedures.

Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to clarify special tool use. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-07-30-052G (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).

Important
All labor operations that include removal of the transmission from the vehicle include labor time to flow check and flush the transmission oil cooler system.

The J-45096 transmission oil cooling system flow test tool replaces the current tool J-35944-A. J-45096 is a self-contained unit utilizing a 12-volt flow meter, shop air supply and DEXRON(R) VI automatic transmission fluid (ATF). In the flush mode, transmission fluid is cycled through the transmission oil cooling system. High-pressure air is automatically injected into the fluid stream adding agitation to the ATF oil to enhance the removal of contaminated ATF oil and debris. In the flow mode, an electronic flow meter is used to measure the flow capability of the ATF oil cooling system. A digital display indicates the ATF oil flow rate in gallons per minute (GPM) along with the amount of ATF oil in the supply vessel, supply vessel ATF oil temperature, machine cycles and the operating mode. In the flush mode, transmission fluid is cycled through the transmission oil cooling system. High-pressure air is automatically injected into the fluid stream adding agitation to the ATF oil to enhance the removal of contaminated ATF oil and debris. The supply oil vessel has 30 L (32 qt) capacity and the waste oil vessel has 32 L (34 qt) capacity. The waste oil vessel is constructed of a translucent composite material that allows the user to easily identify the oil level. The waste oil vessel can accommodate vacuum evacuation and gravity draining. In the code mode, a random, encrypted code is generated that can be used for verification of flow test results.

Current essential cooler line adapters are used to connect the J-45096 to the automatic transmission oil cooler lines that allows the J-45096 to adapt to General Motors passenger cars and light duty trucks, current and past models (except the Pontiac Vibe, Wave and Chevrolet Aveo).

The tool may be adapted for use on the Pontiac Vibe, Wave and Chevrolet Aveo by dealership personnel with a barbed hose connector and rubber hose obtained locally. The Vibe's/Wave's/Aveo's transmission has a transmission oil requirement that is slightly different from DEXRON(R) VI ATF. However, flow checking and flushing the cooler with DEXRON(R) VI automatic transmission fluid is an acceptable service procedure. Very little fluid remains in the cooler after the flow check and flush procedure and the residual DEXRON(R) VI ATF in the cooler is compatible with the Vibe's/Wave's/Aveo's transmission fluid.

Notice
Insufficient oil flow through the ATF oil cooling system will cause premature transmission failure. The required minimum ATF oil flow rate reading is directly related to the supply oil temperature. Refer to the flow rate chart in SI for the oil flow rate specification based on the temperature of the ATF in the supply vessel.

Helpful Hints for Maintaining the Temperature at or above 18°C (65°F)

Important - The temperature of the supply vessel oil must be 18°C (65°F) or greater for the J-45096 to operate. It is recommended to store the J-45096 in an area of the dealership where the room temperature remains at or above 18°C (65°F) when not in use.

- Do not attempt to increase the fluid temperature in the Transflow(R) machine with an engine oil dipstick, or any other immersion type heater. The Transflow(R) machine has a check valve in the supply reservoir. Inserting a heater will damage the check valve and the subsequent repair expense would be the dealer's responsibility.

- A heater blanket, P/N J-45096-10, is available for the Transflow(R) transmission cooling system flushing tool. This heater fastens around the Transflow(R) internal supply vessel and runs on 110 volts AC. The heater will warm the ATF in the supply vessel to at least 18°C (65°F) and has a thermostat to hold a constant temperature.


Store the Transmission Cooling System Service Tool, J-45096, Transflow(R) machine in a room where the temperature is maintained at or above 18°C (65°F).

Keep the ATF level in the reservoir low when the Transmission Cooling System Service Tool, J-45096, Transflow(R), is not in use. Store several gallons of oil in an area where the temperature is maintained at or above 18°C (65°F). Fill the reservoir of the J-45096 as needed before using the machine on each repair.

With the ATF in a tightly sealed container, place the container in a tub of hot water for a period of time. Then pour the ATF into the reservoir. This method works best with a low fluid level in the reservoir.

Place the Transflow(R) machine in the direct sunlight with the cabinet door open to expose the reservoir to the rays of the warm sun.


The above is from GM and is way overkill. But you should disconnect the coolant lines at the transmission end and flush through them (and the cooler) using a small pump, a reservoir and a solvent (acetone, MEK, etc). Before you begin, blow them out with compressed air and note whether any debris comes flying out.

IMPORTANT: Whenever flushing/ blowing out any tube type heat exchanger, the flow of flushing media must be counter to the normal fluid flow.

 

[Tricky991]

Yeah, I totally forgot to get the cooler cleaned out... Would a cooler flush like from Jegs, Max Shift Cooler Flush be good for that? Or should I take it in to a shop?

And I am guessing the trans is toast then? My fault though, Got ahead of my self and forgot...

 

[chengny]

It might be worth it to just replace the radiator.

 

[Tricky991]

Alright, and I should just blow the cooler lines out? Or get new ones also?

And one more thing the transmission works fine in reverse no slipping nothing..

What about the TC? How should I make sure that everything is out of it? Or would I need a new TC also?

 

[chengny]

should just blow the cooler lines out? Or get new ones also?

You can just blow them out and flush with gasoline or something.

And one more thing the transmission works fine in reverse no slipping nothing

That's the spirit - always look on the bright side.

What about the TC? How should I make sure that everything is out of it? Or would I need a new TC also?

Personally, I drill and tap for a 1/8" drain plug (and another for a vent and balance 180 degrees out from the drain). With these openings created, it is possible to effectively drain all the contaminated ATF - along with any particulates. But that procedure is a subject for an entire thread just by itself.

By filling the TC with a solvent, shaking the crap out of it and draining the solvent (over and over until the flushing agent runs clear), it is possible to salvage a torque converter that was attached to a smoked transmission. On the other hand, if the TC itself was the point of failure - chuck it. The internals will be useless and will probably come undone at some point (soon) in the future and take out another transmission.

 

[Tricky991]

Personally, I drill and tap for a 1/8" drain plug (and another for a vent and balance 180 degrees out from the drain). With these openings created, it is possible to effectively drain all the contaminated ATF - along with any particulates. But that procedure is a subject for an entire thread just by itself.

By filling the TC with a solvent, shaking the crap out of it and draining the solvent (over and over until the flushing agent runs clear), it is possible to salvage a torque converter that was attached to a smoked transmission. On the other hand, if the TC itself was the point of failure - chuck it. The internals will be useless and will probably come undone at some point (soon) in the future and take out another transmission.

The TC came off of a Turbo 400 that someone traded for work. I was going to use that but it is way to short. So I am going to sell that. But the TC to my knowledge should be perfectly fine.

Is there a thread on here that explains how to do the drain/vent for the TC. I would love to do that. That should be stock on every TC....

I feel like I have put way much more work/time into my truck to just sell it. I want to fix it and do it right. Also I am going to get a trans cooler and put that in also.

I guess I will be dropping the trans again, and getting another. I probably wont be as lucky as I was with this one finding it just laying under the truck lol just had to remove the cooler lines and go.

Thank you for all the help so far chengny. If you have any more tips/tricks/wisdom for me let me know lol. I need all the help I can get xD

 

[Tricky991]

Well I got another transmission and did everything you recommended. And I has been working great. No problems, thanks again for all the help!

 

[bucket]

Good to hear you got it fixed and going again. Installing a used trans is always a crap shoot. If it doesn't work right, you don't know if it was something you did wrong, or just a failing trans.