Truck shut off at stopsign on occasion should open my damper permenatly ?

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Hugomartin

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I’m thinking about wedging a peice of wood in there.

When it dies then when I go to crank it it will turn over once then I’ll crank again it will turn over twice then quit no start then I wait about 10 seconds then I crank it and it’s a weak constant turn over then I press the gas hard and it finally starts
 

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Grit dog

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Seriously though it doesn’t sound like the flapper is the problem unless it’s not able to pull air from below from the carb heater duct thingy (that used to go to the exhaust manifold).
Have you removed what you think is the problem and the problem stays with the air cleaner?
 

RecklessWOT

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I really doubt that is the issue. If you want to be sure and rule it out, flip the lid on your air cleaner and drive it like that a few days. If the problem instantly goes away and stays away, well maybe you were right. If it keeps happening obviously no part of the air cleaner is the issue
 

Hugomartin

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Seriously though it doesn’t sound like the flapper is the problem unless it’s not able to pull air from below from the carb heater duct thingy (that used to go to the exhaust manifold).
Have you removed what you think is the problem and the problem stays with the air cleaner?
Look at my pic . How in the heck would that flap damper thing even open when it should? There is nothing to move it unless you pry with your finger to get it open, it’s a strong spring damper and can’t move on it’s own doubtly
 

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should be a thermo type plunger that opens up the flapper when the engine is warmed up
 

RecklessWOT

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Look at my pic . How in the heck would that flap damper thing even open when it should? There is nothing to move it unless you pry with your finger to get it open, it’s a strong spring damper and can’t move on it’s own doubtly
There is (or was) a tube that hooked to the bottom of the air cleaner near the flap you're talking about that brought in warm air from the heat shields around the passenger side exhaust manifold. The manifold gets hot almost instantly from the temperature of the exhaust. The air inside the shield around the manifold is still clean outside air (it's not taking in hot exhaust fumes, just air from around the outside of the manifold that has been heated by the manifold, the first hot thing under the hood after startup) to help with cold starts, but as soon as it gets warm enough from the manifold heated air, the flapper opens up (very simple mechanical design). After that, once the flap opens you're just pulling cold air from the grille near the headlight. Even if that tube is gone and the flap doesn't open, the air will still pull from the port below where the tube used to hook onto the exhaust heat shields. Even if the flapper is broken and not opening, there should not be enough restriction to make the engine not run. It was literally designed to run that way on startup while the engine was cold. It might hurt efficency if the main flap was stuck, but in no way would it cause the engine to stumble or cut out. You clearly are experiencing something else, but just for peace of mind, like I said earlier try flipping the lid and see what happens. You won't be shocked when nothing changes.
 
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Grit dog

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Look at my pic . How in the heck would that flap damper thing even open when it should? There is nothing to move it unless you pry with your finger to get it open, it’s a strong spring damper and can’t move on it’s own doubtly
I understand that. And when it’s working properly it’s closed or almost closed or whatever when the engine and ambient is cold. And when that happens the car runs fine because there is a big hole downstream of it that is hooked to the hot dogger on the exhaust manifold to get warm air in quickly and raise IATs.
But idk, if that has a flapper too that is remaining closed. (To your point).

So flip the air cleaner lid and let er rip and see if that’s the problem.
 

Hugomartin

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Opening the flapper didn’t fix my issue , truck shut off on me at a stop light on way home from work. Perhaps it’s the esc and I need to bypass it?
 

Hugomartin

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I’m not sure if I have esc or not
 

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Hugomartin

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I’ve wiggled every wire while idoling I have no sign of lose connection
 

Hugomartin

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Maybe it’s the electronic vacuum regulation valve
 

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Hugomartin

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Should I just buy a new prom and ecm?
 

Originalthor

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Have you checked your distributor? That little vent in the bottom of it likes to plug up with dirt and corrodes the inside. That made my truck randomly die at lights.

Also jiggle your keys back and forth and see what happens. The coil is hot of the ignition and if the switch is worn out it can cause random shut offs.

Also check the operation of your egr.

I'm assuming you have 87 and up tbi?
 

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