Trailer tires

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bigcountry78

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Thank you everyone for the suggestions. Psi is either 50 or 55, whatever the tires call for. I don’t remember exactly off hand, and I don’t know immediately what load range they are. I’ve never looked.

I’ve heard both arguments for and against car tires. I know some truck tires give a higher load rating, but I’ve also read that ST tires, or trailer specific tires, are designed to sit unused for long periods of time like most trailers do. They’re formulated to do better than car tires do when sitting idle. I don’t know how true that is or where I read it, but it stuck out.
 

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Thank you everyone for the suggestions. Psi is either 50 or 55, whatever the tires call for. I don’t remember exactly off hand, and I don’t know immediately what load range they are. I’ve never looked.

I’ve heard both arguments for and against car tires. I know some truck tires give a higher load rating, but I’ve also read that ST tires, or trailer specific tires, are designed to sit unused for long periods of time like most trailers do. They’re formulated to do better than car tires do when sitting idle. I don’t know how true that is or where I read it, but it stuck out.
There's a few differences between trailer and truck tires and truck tires vs. Passenger car tires. Trailer tires is the correct answer followed by truck tires and passenger car tires would be dead last place.
 

Old Guy Bill

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I run the Goodyear Endurance on my fifth wheel.
The correct load range is the key on any trailering application, with always some allowance for loaded vs unloaded.
 

bucket

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I forgot to mention it earlier, but load range doesn't mean much if it's a low quality tire. I've seen E-rated trailer tires that have incredibly floppy sidewalls. Floppier than a set of 90's Pep Boys "Set of 4 for only $99" passenger car tires. I'm not exaggerating either, unfortunately. I don't know who those companies paid off to get that E rating.

I like to see and feel a trailer tire before I buy one. You want heavy and stiff, not light and floppy.
 

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This is only my opinion and I may be incorrect,but my thoughts are, a good trailer tire is the best choice,but a mediocre truck tire is better than a cheap or mediocre trailer tire. I think that there is more chance of liability with a truck tire that's going to see tons of miles carrying people vs. a cheap trailer tire that's going to see occasional miles and carry lumber. I think the risks make truck tire manufacturers follow better standards. Jmho.
 
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bucket

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This is only my opinion and I may be incorrect,but my thoughts are, a good trailer tire is the best choice,but a mediocre truck tire is better than a cheap or mediocre trailer tire. I think that there is more chance of liability with a truck tire that's going to see tons of miles carrying people vs. a cheap trailer tire that's going to see occasional miles and carry lumber. I think the risks make truck tire manufacturers follow better standards. Jmho.

I don't believe you are wrong. Personally, I'd choose a truck tire over a cheap trailer tire.
 

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I forgot to mention it earlier, but load range doesn't mean much if it's a low quality tire. I've seen E-rated trailer tires that have incredibly floppy sidewalls. Floppier than a set of 90's Pep Boys "Set of 4 for only $99" passenger car tires. I'm not exaggerating either, unfortunately. I don't know who those companies paid off to get that E rating.

I like to see and feel a trailer tire before I buy one. You want heavy and stiff, not light and floppy.
We are still talking tires here......right?.........and before someone else says it......That's what she said
 

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We are still talking tires here......right?.........and before someone else says it......That's what she said

I should have known that some wise guy would comment on that...
 

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Maybe I'm wrong, but I run name brand "P" tires on my trailer. Here is my 2002 short bed with the 8' bed.

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The '02 had 16" wheels. It got totaled by a guy on his phone running a red light. Replaced it with a 2006 SB. Now 17" wheels.

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All six wheels and tires match. one spare fits all.
 

das5439

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Well, my 6x12 utility trailer will finally need tires this spring. I guess 12 years on a set of tires is long enough. Right now it has ST215/75r15’s, which are the original tires. I’ve noticed that when the trailer has a decent load such as 2 atv’s or a heavier lawn mower, the tires seem to sway a bit. Would stepping up to a 225/75r15 help with that? From what I see, the 225 is maybe a half inch taller, and half inch wider? I’m wondering if the slightly wider tire would provide more stability? Pretty sure I have the clearance to step to a wider size.
I just repaired a trailer for a gent that was having similar issues - the drivers side leaf spring shackle had come apart due to age and wear.
Also, I never ever use ST tires for me they don’t last whereas LT tires run much better and last longer (American made tires )
 

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Trailer tires are great for loads, but not for roads. Their stronger sidewalls allow them to haul more weight, AND they reduce sway, but they do not tolerate road speeds well.

Most snowbirds soon learn to switch from trailer tires (ST's) to LT, truck tires. For example, those twelve ply tires under that mobile home are, often, rated for no more than fifty MPH. They hate the heat build up from sidewall flex at high speeds.

If hauling loads, most the focus is on the sidewalls. For example, I switched my cargo van to 6 ply tires because of loads I carried in it. It was a night and day improvement.

Going from the "four ply RATING" to actual six ply tires, I, immediately, noticed I could feel the road a lot more. Also, the wind didn't push me around nearly as much.

Part of that, also, comes with more air pressure. I ran around forty PSI in my Astro cargo van six plies, and added as the load increased.

Generally, DOT focuses on tire surface area when considering load capacities of trailers. So wider means, a bit more weight capacity, whether by way of a wider tire or by adding tires (this from a deep dive into what DOT stated we needed for our 10,000 pound gooseneck).

One cannot depend on experts we call manufacturers to know the right tires and air pressures. If you look at the door tag on my Ranger, I should be running twenty-eight PSI for daily driving. I run it at thirty-four (based on tire wear (outer portion wearing quicker)).

Then there is that those experts admit ST tires (trailer tires) should follow the rule for posted truck speeds. That is, drive slower than passenger cars to avoid the heat build up issues that destroy ST tires. The 80 MPH roads of Idaho and Utah may not play well with those rules.

Ever wonder why you see so many tire pieces from big trucks laying along the road? Hint: Merely that someone is behind the wheel of a big rig does not mean they know all they should about their big rig.

Then there is that auto/truck manufacturers recommend the same air pressure in all the, for example, 225-15's that come equipped on their rigs, though one set is on a Honda Accord and the other set is on a full sized, half ton cargo van.

My recommendation would be, standard truck tires and push toward six ply tires.
 
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Dejure

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Same thing as above.
Anything less than a 16” wheel and you’re not going to find a heavy rated car/truck tire. (Except those obscure European 225 sumthin or other 15” Commerical tires). 14” nothing exists.
I switched my Astro cargo van to 6 ply via Les. They were 15".
 

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Trailer tires are great for loads, but not for roads. Their stronger sidewalls allow them to haul more weight, AND they reduce sway, but they do not tolerate road speeds well.

Most snowbirds soon learn to switch from trailer tires to LT, truck tires. For example, those twelve ply tires under that mobile home are, often, rated for no more than fifty MPH. They hate the heat build up from sidewall flex at high speeds.

If they are hauling loads, they focus on the sidewalls. For example, I switched my cargo van to 6 ply tires because of loads I carried in it.

Going from the "four ply RATING" to actual six ply tires, I, immediately, noticed I could feel the road a lot more. Also, the wind didn't push me around nearly as much.

Part of that comes with more air pressure. I ran around forty PSI in my Astro cargo van six plies.

Generally, DOT focuses on tire surface area when considering load capacities of trailers. So wider means a bit more weight capacity, whether by way of a wider tire or by adding tires.

Once cannot depend on experts we call manufacturers to know the right tires and air pressures. If you look at the door tag on my Ranger, I should be running twenty-eight PSI for daily driving. I run it at thirty-four.

Then there is that those experts admit ST tires (trailer tires) should follow the rule for posted truck speeds. That is, drive slower than passenger cars to avoid the heat build up issues that destroy ST tires. The 80 MPH roads of Idaho and Utah may not play well with those rules.

Then there is that auto/truck manufacturers recommend the same air pressure in all the, for example, 225-15's that come equipped on their rigs, though one set is on a Honda Accord and the other set is on a full sized, half ton cargo van.

My recommendation would be, standard truck tires and push toward six ply tires.

I've spent the last 13 years running loaded trailer tires down the highway at 75 mph nearly everyday for work. Lots and lots of days of just solid highway driving. I have to replace trailer tires because of wear, not because they failed. Sure, some have failed... but it was due to age and defects. Not from simply using them. Your blanket statement of trailer tires is incorrect.

Again, it's all about the specific tire. Not all tires are equal.
 

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