The new 14 bff full rehab questions and conversation thread

[Radiohead]

Oh yeah, it's over $1300, so shipping is the least of my worries. But it will be basically all new. Good for another 67000 miles....

But, free shipping IS a very good price. Really hoping for a holiday discount, I'm on the mailing list via SMS.

 

[Craig Nedrow]

I have that locker in my 454 K20, abused every time i drive it. done multiple burnouts, 16 rear tires toasted, runnin' on maypops. I have looked at my burnouts, they are identical on both sides, start the same, feather out the same, you're gonna love it.

 

[AuroraGirl]

I haven’t done a 14B FF myself, but for the other rears I’ve done I’ll list my preferences.

Timken or Koyo are both quality bearings, I’ve used both without issue.

Gear sets, I’d recommend AAM, Revolution. However a quick search suggests no 3.42 ratios offered by either for the 10.5. You’ll probably be stuck with a gear set from the Yukon/Standard/Randys conglomerate (not necessarily a bad thing, just how the availability lands).

For a 14B you’ll need a spanner for the side adjusters (you can use a punch, but no one like a primitive Pete), and you’ll be working “backwards” with the pinion depth, as you add shim to between the cartridge and housing to move the pinion away from the ring gear, whereas a 10/12/14bsf you add shim to move it closer.

You’ll need a good dial indicator and base, inch lb beam torque wrench, means of R&Ring races and seals, lots of brake parts cleaner/solvent, a small stone to hit mating surfaces, and the regular assortment of hand tools.

AAM#	Vehicle Make	Model	Year	Axle Type	Axle Ratio	# of Teeth	Notes
26067357	GM	Sierra, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Escalade	1975 - 2025	10.5" 14 Bolt - Rear Axle	3.42 - 4.10	30 / 1.55"	USE 74040917 diff gear kit

 

[Radiohead]

As illustrated in the other thread, everything is on hold for old people problems.

I am saving the original housing and any spare parts because I do want to go through it and make improvements.

Any thoughts on reusing U-bolts? I've always replaced them out of general principles in the past but wondered just how necessary that really is if there are no signs of trauma to the threads or the bolts themselves. What do you do?

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[bucket]

As illustrated in the other thread, everything is on hold for old people problems.

I am saving the original housing and any spare parts because I do want to go through it and make improvements.

Any thoughts on reusing U-bolts? I've always replaced them out of general principles in the past but wondered just how necessary that really is if there are no signs of trauma to the threads or the bolts themselves. What do you do?

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I live in the rust belt. Saving u-bolts is often not possible. Like, 99.9% of the time. But if they are super recent and come apart nicely, I've got no problem reusing them.

 

[Craig Nedrow]

I have used u-bolts over many times, just use common sense, do they look reusable? if they look good, paint em' and use em'.

 

[Rustisbest]

But, free shipping IS a very good price. Really hoping for a holiday discount, I'm on the mailing list via SMS.

If you're still shopping and hadn't seen it

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[Radiohead]

Well, I finally made time today to start the swap in earnest. Yesterday was like this here

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Today was much better.
First thing, drop the swaybar and disconnect the shocks. Make mental notes how it went together since I really didn't take much for pictures. Swaybar mount on axle goes just so, but everything else seems pretty straightforward.

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Not sure what the funky plate on top actually does, but it was there so it goes back. Extra support around where the spring pack interfaces with the axle tube?

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Down on the trolley. Drag it out tomorrow and start the process of getting the other housing ready and up in.

More as it develops.

 

[Radiohead]

Inspection day. And it's a 3.73! Not that I doubted Chad, but in this age it's trust but verify.

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Yeah, thats my blue towel fuzz on that tooth valley. Magnet has a little accumulation, but at least it's still in one piece without pinon rollers and debis all around. So far so good. Maybe built in '79 as well? Additional pics shortly.

 

[Radiohead]

OK, shortly turned into a couple hours. Yeah, preaching to the choir around here. We're lovers of squares, but I digress.

So I was all gung ho to get it apart so I could move and swap it in without all the extra weight of the drums, axles and backing plates tonight. Caught myself and said, self, you should power wash all that gunk and mud off before you go through all the hassle of installing the "new" unit in case you see something that you don't like.

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Passenger side

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Driver side

As fate has it, I am wondering if the housing wasn't welded at the factory where the tubes go into the housing. I only consider the possibility because there was a lot of caked on grease/dirt on that passenger side joint and I wonder if I'm just not seeing things right. The driver side you can see a little bit of a bevel as well, just not as pronounced.

Most all the gunk is off now. I plan on using my backing plates and hubs/drums because they seemed to have nearly zero miles on them. Now, I think I should check WMS to WMS dimension just to see if the tubes are indeed walking out of the housing while it's still all together. Need to hit the remaining chunks with a wire brush as well.

Drying now

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I'm probably wrong, and anything to slow a project down. But I would be extra pissed off if I went to all the effort only to discover I got to do it yet again.

Im probably obsessing and a little nuts. Just haven't noticed something like that before. What do you think?

 

[legopnuematic]

That looks normal to me. As long as they didn't forget the plug welds in the center to the tubes you should be just fine.

 

[Radiohead]

I figured it was something simple and average, but I needed to hear it from someone else. You mentioned the plug welds and an old memory cell detonated. Just had to be reminded, apparently. Besides....

I'm old and that thing is heavy.

 

[Radiohead]

Hanging under its own support tonight. Whoo hoo. Forward progress, first down.

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More thread chasing, cleaning, bearing work, swap backing plates and hooking up all the yaya's. Happiness.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

I figured it was something simple and average, but I needed to hear it from someone else. You mentioned the plug welds and an old memory cell detonated. Just had to be reminded, apparently. Besides....

I'm old and that thing is heavy.

Yup they are sturdy and that translates to heavy. The one I have, out of a one ton square body srw pickup, it took four people to get it out of the donor truck in the pick your part, up the hill in the wagon, and in the back of our truck.....
Dad was gonna put it under the 79 C10 Burb, then we ended up just getting a 2500 Burb. It's the style where you have to pull the axle shaft to remove the brake drum, and IIRC it's 4.10 gears. Sitting on dollies in the front of the shop building, in my way, too heavy to get it out and take to a swap meet....

 

[ma3600vz]

Yup they are sturdy and that translates to heavy. The one I have, out of a one ton square body srw pickup, it took four people to get it out of the donor truck in the pick your part, up the hill in the wagon, and in the back of our truck.....
Dad was gonna put it under the 79 C10 Burb, then we ended up just getting a 2500 Burb. It's the style where you have to pull the axle shaft to remove the brake drum, and IIRC it's 4.10 gears. Sitting on dollies in the front of the shop building, in my way, too heavy to get it out and take to a swap meet....

I want to say the big ff 14 come in at 550 could be wrong but I feel very strongly about that number for how heavy they are wimpy 10 bolts any one can pick up the 9.5 6 lug 14 bolt is stupid heavy and I do not no what the sf 8 14 bolt comes in at but it not light at all