Steering Stabilizer on a C10

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plckidd

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Has anyone installed a steering stabilizer on a C10 before? I have completely replaced everything on the front of the truck and the steering feels good. What I have noticed is, while driving... the truck wants to follow ruts in the road and when turning I have to help steer the wheel back to straight again. Any suggestions?
 

idahovette

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Have you had it aligned lately? Sounds like maybe there isn't enough positive caster, that's what helps keep it going straight down the road and helps return the gear to center. Check all your linkage and ball joints, too.
 

ali_c20

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Have you had it aligned lately? Sounds like maybe there isn't enough positive caster, that's what helps keep it going straight down the road and helps return the gear to center. Check all your linkage and ball joints, too.

I second that. A steering stabilizer will not fix any steering problems, just dampen the symptoms.
When everything is ok it will dampen or stabilize the side to side movement of the wheels, nothing more.
Some gas charged steering stabilizers try to fully extend all the time. This sometimes result in a constant push of the steering to the left.
 

AuroraGirl

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I second that. A steering stabilizer will not fix any steering problems, just dampen the symptoms.
When everything is ok it will dampen or stabilize the side to side movement of the wheels, nothing more.
Some gas charged steering stabilizers try to fully extend all the time. This sometimes result in a constant push of the steering to the left.
Could a proper stabiliZer still benefit steering if it was in proper order? Especially when in a situation where there’s a jump or jerk from a road.
I’m just thinking about my dirt road I live near I use all the time and my cars handle it fine but my f150 it’s loosey goosey 2wd. But it has no sway bars and I do know the tie rod is getting a little play in it, so I know that obviously will play.

I’m kinda in same boat as OP since a stabilizer for 2wd f150 was made by Ford as a kit, but I’m not sure how much it would work on a square? Almost think it would help more because of the better pump and featherlight turning
 

plckidd

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Have you had it aligned lately? Sounds like maybe there isn't enough positive caster, that's what helps keep it going straight down the road and helps return the gear to center. Check all your linkage and ball joints, too.
I just had it aligned last weekend and on a good road it tracks great. Could the tires cause this issue? The front tires are 255/45/20...
 

Octane

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Out of spec castor settings will cause a rut tracking feel and can cause a lack or extreme return to center feel,depending on which way it is out of spec.A bad gearbox can also cause a lack of return to center of the steering wheel.I had a sports car alignment ant with caster to the extreme and a strong return to center,and a rut tracking was experienced.Also it was harder to steer from center to left and to the right.But it tracked the tire contact patch flat against the road in extreme turns and drove like the car was on rails
 

idahovette

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I just had it aligned last weekend and on a good road it tracks great. Could the tires cause this issue? The front tires are 255/45/20...
Did you get a printout from the alignment shop and if so, what were the caster settings before and after? Also what was/is the toe setting?.....and yes it could be tires...inflation.. or a combination of all. The printout from the shop would be a key
 

BKING33

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I have a stabilizer on my 3/4 2wd Burb. It does help dampen the feel of the road, but mine still wanders some.
I am thinking about trying a better quality steering box. Maybe check that really good for play in your steering.
 

ali_c20

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Could a proper stabiliZer still benefit steering if it was in proper order? Especially when in a situation where there’s a jump or jerk from a road.
I’m just thinking about my dirt road I live near I use all the time and my cars handle it fine but my f150 it’s loosey goosey 2wd. But it has no sway bars and I do know the tie rod is getting a little play in it, so I know that obviously will play.

I’m kinda in same boat as OP since a stabilizer for 2wd f150 was made by Ford as a kit, but I’m not sure how much it would work on a square? Almost think it would help more because of the better pump and featherlight turning

Sure the dampers help a lot on uneven surfaces or dirt roads. I unmounted the steering damper on my k5 to see the difference and it was huge.
I'm running the skyjacker black max steering damper.

Steering stabilizer kits for 2wd trucks are cheap and you can get them from LMC or Rockauto for ~ 50$.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=61921&cc=1030037&pt=7412&jsn=965
 

AuroraGirl

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Raider L

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Could it be your tires are to wide? But then again the 4x4's use big tires, and they are always driving on rutted and uneven surfaces, but they've also got their suspensions designed for it to. I agree it's probably a combination.
 

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Assuming everything else checks out...


Check the frame for cracks at steering box.
Like get out a magnifying glass and really check the frame. I thought my sons frame was perfect and I only found cracks after blasting to bare metal.

The C10 frames are very weak and have lots of flex. And they require, all the bumper bolts to be tight to minimize flex.

Also, check for loose rivets on front crossmember and drill out and replace w/ 7/16 Grade 8 if need be.

For additional performance, add Ridetech frame braces and/or Autofab steering box brace.

You can see the braces on our build page.
 

AuroraGirl

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Assuming everything else checks out...


Check the frame for cracks at steering box.
Like get out a magnifying glass and really check the frame. I thought my sons frame was perfect and I only found cracks after blasting to bare metal.

The C10 frames are very weak and have lots of flex. And they require, all the bumper bolts to be tight to minimize flex.

Also, check for loose rivets on front crossmember and drill out and replace w/ 7/16 Grade 8 if need be.

For additional performance, add Ridetech frame braces and/or Autofab steering box brace.

You can see the braces on our build page.
Would a harder bolt be good or do they become too brittle going to metric 10.9, 12.9 etc
 

Bennyt

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Would a harder bolt be good or do they become too brittle going to metric 10.9, 12.9 etc

The hardness of the bolt not going to affect the outcome. The issue is the rivets start to loosen up in the crossmember(s) and oblong the holes allowing movement. The rivets are slightly under 7/16 if I recall, so drilling to 7/16 and installing good hardware should improve on the flex.

I pretty much only buy/ use Grade 8 hardware, unless I need SS, as it's only $2 more a pound in bulk and I can use it on most applications so I don't have as much loose, unused hardware. I also rarely use locknuts, and instead use G8 AN washers and locknuts.
 

Raider L

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I have heard that most Stainless Steel bolts are all grade 5. There is a super industrial fastener business here in town. I buy all my fasteners from there. It's a bulk place so you get much, much lower prices than Lowe's or anywhere else. They sell to most industries here in town. If I'm not mistaken that's where I heard it. If you want to get more hardness, toughness, more ductile fastener you have to use a exotic material like Chrome-moly or or Molybdenum. But the more exotic the metal comes with it embrittlement. ARP uses 4140 Chrome-moly and other alloys at strengths upwards to 180,000 psi.

That would be cool to put you truck together with ARP bolts, washers, and nuts! That sucker would never come loose! When the truck had turned to powder the only thing that would be left would be a pile of bolts!
 

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