Someone please tell me I am wrong. A/C Compressor Issue

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

itscaleb

Junior Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2015
Posts
15
Reaction score
0
Location
Tinker AFB, Oklahoma
First Name
Caleb
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
305
So, getting ready for these brutal Oklahoma summers by replacing all the "consumables" in my A/C system. (gaskets, accumulator, flushing, vacuum for 30 min, etc...) When I was putting my 134 back in and after the expected 5 cans the A/C stopped cycling. Well today the system started cycling again. Thinking that maybe I was just on the threshold last night I went and got another can of 134 and decided to get UV dye in case I had a leak. Well, 5 minutes after getting the can added and letting it run to cycle the dye through the system, I found a leak on the seam of the compressor (picture attached). I'm assuming that this is not repairable but I would prefer if someone could tell me I'm wrong and how to fix this short of replacing the compressor.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0333.jpg
    IMG_0333.jpg
    90.7 KB · Views: 137

smoothandlow84

I'd rather be draggin' frame
Joined
Jan 4, 2015
Posts
2,121
Reaction score
784
Location
Arizona
First Name
Steve
Truck Year
1984 Frame...87 motor and 700r trans
Truck Model
1500 r10 pavement scraper
Engine Size
350 TBI
Compressor is shot. If you purchased it under warranty, it may be covered. I just replaced my compressor, accumulator, and orfice tube in order to get a lifetime warranty. You should still be on record if purchased at an auto parts supply store, if not you will have to buy a replacement compressor. They retail at Autozone for $250, accumulator tank... $25 and orfice tube $6 ( all should be replaced at the same time since the oil and atmospheric oxygen leave contaminants in the system once opened).
 

bucket

Super Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
29,117
Reaction score
23,995
Location
Usually not in Ohio
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
'77, '78, '79, '84, '88
Truck Model
K5 thru K30
Engine Size
350-454
Yeah, the "correct" way would be to replace the accumulator too... but honestly it's a waste of money if everything works well and the compressor is just being replaced because a leak.

Also, the parts store compressors are often noisier than the AC Delco part, but the warranty sucks on the AC Delco compressors.
 

itscaleb

Junior Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2015
Posts
15
Reaction score
0
Location
Tinker AFB, Oklahoma
First Name
Caleb
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
305
Compressor is shot. If you purchased it under warranty, it may be covered. I just replaced my compressor, accumulator, and orfice tube in order to get a lifetime warranty. You should still be on record if purchased at an auto parts supply store, if not you will have to buy a replacement compressor. They retail at Autozone for $250, accumulator tank... $25 and orfice tube $6 ( all should be replaced at the same time since the oil and atmospheric oxygen leave contaminants in the system once opened).

There is no warranty on it at all. I bought my truck for $500 knowing it had a bad heater, (ended up being the heater core was vapor locked and ended up fixing it myself by running it with the cap off and "burping" it by squeezing the hoses) a bad transmission (cost me $1300 to get it rebuilt, installed and warrantied), and no A/C. I replaced the accumulator, flushed it, vacuumed it, and added freon. I didn't replace the oriface tube though. I'll do it this time around when I replace the compressor. (just need to figure out where it is.) Question though, can i get an A6 compressor or does it need to be the pancake compressor that is in it now? I couldnt see how the A6 would hook up but online it says it is compatible with my truck.
 

itscaleb

Junior Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2015
Posts
15
Reaction score
0
Location
Tinker AFB, Oklahoma
First Name
Caleb
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
305
Yeah, the "correct" way would be to replace the accumulator too... but honestly it's a waste of money if everything works well and the compressor is just being replaced because a leak.

Also, the parts store compressors are often noisier than the AC Delco part, but the warranty sucks on the AC Delco compressors.

The Accumulator is literally 1 day old. I installed it yesterday. I was thinking once I pull it out to put the caps back on as I remove the connectors and just use it again. I figured while I was replacing the compressor, I will replace the hoses and flush it again since it has ester in it now and will probably have PAG with the new compressor. Dont want to mix the oils.
 

smoothandlow84

I'd rather be draggin' frame
Joined
Jan 4, 2015
Posts
2,121
Reaction score
784
Location
Arizona
First Name
Steve
Truck Year
1984 Frame...87 motor and 700r trans
Truck Model
1500 r10 pavement scraper
Engine Size
350 TBI
I would go with a replacement unit comparable to what is on it now. The brackets should make it a direct replacement fit. The p.o. of my square removed the ac compressor, but left the high and low lines, accumulator, condenser etc. I had a hell of a time sourcing the bracket that is bolted to the compressor. To make life easier, just go with the same type of compressor. Most auto parts stores WONT lifetime warranty the compresors any more UNLESS you replace the compressor, accumulator tank and especially the orfice tube ( make sure to install the orfice tube in the right direction of flow...there's an arrow on the body of it just in case). The condensor can be re used. The accumulator tank gets contaminated once the system is open and is impossible to get 100 percent clean. Since yous is a day old, it should be fine. If it was older its worth spending the $25 to get a lifetime warranty versus a one year unless you want to spend another $250 when the compressor goes to ****. As far as noise from the compressor.....its under the hood so I dont hear it lol (thank you dual magna flows).

I replaced everything except the condensor. I figured it was better to replace everything that was in questionable condition since the system was open and the rubber hoses were dried out. I also ran a pressure test on the condensor to make sure there weren't any leaks.
 
Last edited:

itscaleb

Junior Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2015
Posts
15
Reaction score
0
Location
Tinker AFB, Oklahoma
First Name
Caleb
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
305
I replaced everything except the condensor. I figured it was better to replace everything that was in questionable condition since the system was open and the rubber hoses were dried out. I also ran a pressure test on the condensor to make sure there weren't any leaks.

How do I run a pressure test on it?
 

bucket

Super Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
29,117
Reaction score
23,995
Location
Usually not in Ohio
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
'77, '78, '79, '84, '88
Truck Model
K5 thru K30
Engine Size
350-454
The accumulator tank gets contaminated once the system is open and is impossible to get 100 percent clean

The system is open while installing the accumulator. Having it open for 10 minutes while swapping the compressor is no different that having it open for 10 minutes to install the accumulator.

In reality, having the system open for several days won't actually hurt it either, so long as it's not crazy humid weather conditions.
 

smoothandlow84

I'd rather be draggin' frame
Joined
Jan 4, 2015
Posts
2,121
Reaction score
784
Location
Arizona
First Name
Steve
Truck Year
1984 Frame...87 motor and 700r trans
Truck Model
1500 r10 pavement scraper
Engine Size
350 TBI
There is no warranty on it at all. I bought my truck for $500 knowing it had a bad heater, (ended up being the heater core was vapor locked and ended up fixing it myself by running it with the cap off and "burping" it by squeezing the hoses) a bad transmission (cost me $1300 to get it rebuilt, installed and warrantied), and no A/C. I replaced the accumulator, flushed it, vacuumed it, and added freon. I didn't replace the oriface tube though. I'll do it this time around when I replace the compressor. (just need to figure out where it is.) Question though, can i get an A6 compressor or does it need to be the pancake compressor that is in it now? I couldnt see how the A6 would hook up but online it says it is compatible with my truck.

Ha...sounds like when I bought my truck. I drove it maybe 100 miles and the transmission lost all forward gears. I ended up having the entire 700r4 rebuild and upgraded while torn apart. Heater worked for a month, then the fan relay went out. Then I discovered a rusted through freeze plug! The moron p.o. used water instead of coolant in a cast iron block motor....IDIoT!!:shrug:

At least now that the rebuild is done...everything is new, flushed and restored.:)
 

bucket

Super Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
29,117
Reaction score
23,995
Location
Usually not in Ohio
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
'77, '78, '79, '84, '88
Truck Model
K5 thru K30
Engine Size
350-454
The big thing is pulling the system into a vacuum before recharging it.
 

smoothandlow84

I'd rather be draggin' frame
Joined
Jan 4, 2015
Posts
2,121
Reaction score
784
Location
Arizona
First Name
Steve
Truck Year
1984 Frame...87 motor and 700r trans
Truck Model
1500 r10 pavement scraper
Engine Size
350 TBI
The system is open while installing the accumulator. Having it open for 10 minutes while swapping the compressor is no different that having it open for 10 minutes to install the accumulator.

In reality, having the system open for several days won't actually hurt it either, so long as it's not crazy humid weather conditions.

When I was referring to an "open system".....my system was open for over a year. Of course having it open for a few days wont hurt. I went through every aspect during my rebuild not knowing what shortcuts the p.o. did or didn't do. I was right, he was an idiot. If there was a corner to be cut, he did it. The electrical was a fire waiting to happen, the transmission was full of stop slip additives and the cooling system was full of water instead of coolant. Just when I thought I had seen it all, more gremlins came out to play. Its finally done now, and done right.
 

smoothandlow84

I'd rather be draggin' frame
Joined
Jan 4, 2015
Posts
2,121
Reaction score
784
Location
Arizona
First Name
Steve
Truck Year
1984 Frame...87 motor and 700r trans
Truck Model
1500 r10 pavement scraper
Engine Size
350 TBI
The big thing is pulling the system into a vacuum before recharging it.

^^^ Exactamundo!!^^....then check for leaks...at all the connections. I used an electronic "sniffer" that we use for commercial hvac installs.
 

bucket

Super Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
29,117
Reaction score
23,995
Location
Usually not in Ohio
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
'77, '78, '79, '84, '88
Truck Model
K5 thru K30
Engine Size
350-454
When I was referring to an "open system".....my system was open for over a year. Of course having it open for a few days wont hurt. I went through every aspect during my rebuild not knowing what shortcuts the p.o. did or didn't do. I was right, he was an idiot. If there was a corner to be cut, he did it. The electrical was a fire waiting to happen, the transmission was full of stop slip additives and the cooling system was full of water instead of coolant. Just when I thought I had seen it all, more gremlins came out to play. Its finally done now, and done right.

Yeah I was just referring to a case like this one here. Everything works, there's just a leak.
 

smoothandlow84

I'd rather be draggin' frame
Joined
Jan 4, 2015
Posts
2,121
Reaction score
784
Location
Arizona
First Name
Steve
Truck Year
1984 Frame...87 motor and 700r trans
Truck Model
1500 r10 pavement scraper
Engine Size
350 TBI
How do I run a pressure test on it?

I capped off one of the two connectors and ran a vacuum on it with a manifold...the same used to charge and evacuate the system. We used a variety of connectors/adapters. I suppose you could also pump in 5-8psi and make sure it holds for a few minutes with a low pressure gauge.:shrug:
 

itscaleb

Junior Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2015
Posts
15
Reaction score
0
Location
Tinker AFB, Oklahoma
First Name
Caleb
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
305
I capped off one of the two connectors and ran a vacuum on it with a manifold...the same used to charge and evacuate the system. We used a variety of connectors/adapters. I suppose you could also pump in 5-8psi and make sure it holds for a few minutes with a low pressure gauge.:shrug:

I bought a set of manifold gauges a couple of days ago and still have my rented vacuum pump. I will hook it up and cap off the other end and put a vacuum on it and see it it holds for at least an hour. Would that be sufficient? And same as mentioned above, I don't know what the ppo did with it. the po is actually one of my friends and I know what he has done, the the one before him is the original owner and what he as done is completely unknown.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
42,140
Posts
910,030
Members
33,642
Latest member
Bhardiman1
Top