sm465 through out bearing bad ?

[NOPHO84K30]

I jumped in the truck pushed the clutch in heard a snap then clutch was super easy to push in. Now I cant put it in reverse or granny with engine running. First gear is hard to get in to second third too but they go in with out grinding. When this happend I jumped out and looked under it and the fork was super loose, wobbly took out the pivot ball and its like I can pull the fork out . Is that the through out bearing thats doing this.... fork break...I dont remember how its held in there

 

[smurph20]

If you can pull the fork out then the retaining clip broke and it popped off the pivot ball.

 

[HotRodPC]

Sounds to me like a good possibility of some sprung or broken diaphram pressure plate fingers. This will cause all the issues you mentioned above.

 

[NOPHO84K30]

Theres no way to tell without pulling it. Im guessin crap might as well replace everything in it ....its getting worse too wants to go with clutch pushed in all the way

 

[HotRodPC]

Theres no way to tell without pulling it. Im guessin crap might as well replace everything in it ....its getting worse too wants to go with clutch pushed in all the way

This is really starting to sound like the pressure plate took a ****. I'm sure you've gotten under it and grabbed the clutch fork and can tell if it's still on it's pivot ball or not right? Should be able to tell by giving it a good yank back and forth. If it's don't move, you can pretty much assume it's still on it's pivot.

 

[NOPHO84K30]

Oh ya once it happend I jumped under it and I could move it about 1/2 inch back and fourth ..it was loose ..
Got it hm took the adjuster off it and could pull the fork like two inches out of the bell housing moved it all around like it was gonna fall out then got it to a point where it felt solid. Put adjuster back on tightened it up pushing the fork in where it was tight again but then had no engagement on clutch. Then loosend it to where it grabs clutch but is loose against the fork

 

[HotRodPC]

Oh ya once it happend I jumped under it and I could move it about 1/2 inch back and fourth ..it was loose ..
Got it hm took the adjuster off it and could pull the fork like two inches out of the bell housing moved it all around like it was gonna fall out then got it to a point where it felt solid. Put adjuster back on tightened it up pushing the fork in where it was tight again but then had no engagement on clutch. Then loosend it to where it grabs clutch but is loose against the fork

So it does sound like it came off the pivot but you got it back on. So it could be a totally thrashed TO bearing. You just won't know for sure till you pull it.

Is this your daily driver? How much longer do you have to drive it before you can tear it down? Do you know how to drive it without a clutch pedal? It's hard on your starter when you have to come to complete stops, but if you know how to float shift you can still get by for a week or two, but I wouldn't drive it anymore than you had to. I've had to do it before too. I drove 24 miles to and from work in stop and go traffic in Los Angeles float shifting for about a week til I got paid and had funds to buy a new clutch before.

 

[HotRodPC]

Oh ya once it happend I jumped under it and I could move it about 1/2 inch back and fourth ..it was loose ..
Got it hm took the adjuster off it and could pull the fork like two inches out of the bell housing moved it all around like it was gonna fall out then got it to a point where it felt solid. Put adjuster back on tightened it up pushing the fork in where it was tight again but then had no engagement on clutch. Then loosend it to where it grabs clutch but is loose against the fork

So it does sound like it came off the pivot but you got it back on. So it could be a totally thrashed TO bearing. You just won't know for sure till you pull it.

Is this your daily driver? How much longer do you have to drive it before you can tear it down? Do you know how to drive it without a clutch pedal? It's hard on your starter when you have to come to complete stops, but if you know how to float shift you can still get by for a week or two, but I wouldn't drive it anymore than you had to. I've had to do it before too. I drove 24 miles to and from work in stop and go traffic in Los Angeles float shifting for about a week til I got paid and had funds to buy a new clutch before.

 

[NOPHO84K30]

Ya its my dd.. ive been float shifting matching rpms but have to turn it off sometimes to get it in first at a light and reversing im taking it to my brother in laws sun hes got every tool I want and knows squares front to back I just hate asking him to look at it but im not sure how far this isgoing to go fixing it ...hes helped alot showed me alot ....he just put a 5.3 with a4l60 in his 73 blazer it looks factory did a really good job

 

[NOPHO84K30]

And so have you hotrod and and all the other good people on here I appreciate it always

 

[HotRodPC]

Ya its my dd.. ive been float shifting matching rpms but have to turn it off sometimes to get it in first at a light and reversing im taking it to my brother in laws sun hes got every tool I want and knows squares front to back I just hate asking him to look at it but im not sure how far this isgoing to go fixing it ...hes helped alot showed me alot ....he just put a 5.3 with a4l60 in his 73 blazer it looks factory did a really good job

There you go. So you can at least get around if you have to. It's just hard on that starter taking off and starting it with the starter to get rolling. I have actually moved manual trans trucks up on trailers using the starter. Just had to cross the clutch safety switch.

 

[NOPHO84K30]

My clutch safty switch isn't connected I kinda use it as a theft deterrent. Im puttin a new clutch in it this weekend going with the centerforce ll any one use one before its a upgrade from stock has 60% more grip

 

[HotRodPC]

My clutch safty switch isn't connected I kinda use it as a theft deterrent. Im puttin a new clutch in it this weekend going with the centerforce ll any one use one before its a upgrade from stock has 60% more grip

Isn't that a 3 finger type clutch instead of the many finger diaphram type pressure plate? Those do work good but have tendancy to wear your damn leg out. I ran a McLeod 3 finger once with my Muncie M21. It was pretty wicked.

 

[NOPHO84K30]

It looks like it has alot of fingers on it and there weighted. With higher rpm it increases the force on the disc 60% more then stock with the weights its not supposed to as hard to depress the clutch during stop and go driving so hoppfully its not bad just had mri on left knee

 

[NOPHO84K30]

So I got all the clutch and new parts put on. Resealed the sm465 went for a test drive got back and had gear oil runnin down the front of it. Crappy gonna have to pull it out next weekend and try it again. Any tips on getting a good seal