Clutch issues

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iamtherealJayy

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After a couple hours to calm down and further investigation I noticed the new clutch fork moves just like the old one. And the spring from the motor mount to the fork is pulling is downward. I took the spring off and I can push the fork upwards and it levels out but I don’t think the spring I have is the factory spring and lmc only sells the spring under the dash(which I don’t see where it’s installed and it’s not in the leftover parts box so I guess they just got my spring) I did have the guy install a boot around the clutch fork but he said it caused interference so he cut it apart and removed it. I changed the length of the spring(looks like it had been bent before) and I hooked it through the frame beside the shock(hopefully pull up some) the clutch is super hard to press with the new fork and with the fork moving my adjustment changes everytime I press the pedal down. Currently it grabs about two inches off the floor and if you press it the whole way to the floor it has a spot maybe an inch up where it binds? I guess it’s maybe going too far? With the new adjustment rod I’m just past the middle so the longer throw out bearing is the only beneficial thing so far. I tried adjusting per procedure of pedal all the way up and adjust until it slips into the top hole then put in bottom hole but then I can’t put it in gear and it moves with the pedal all the way down and there’s a lot of play in the fork.
 

DoubleDingo

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Where are the before pics and after pics, as well as the old parts compared to the new parts? I understand you bought parts and changed stuff, but did you change everything, did you replace with correct parts, was is it all installed and adjusted correctly, etc? If you don't provide photos for us to evaluate the problems then the problems will likely never be resolved. Help us to help you
 

rusted nuts

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Where are the before pics and after pics, as well as the old parts compared to the new parts? I understand you bought parts and changed stuff, but did you change everything, did you replace with correct parts, was is it all installed and adjusted correctly, etc? If you don't provide photos for us to evaluate the problems then the problems will likely never be resolved. Help us to help you
He said in another post he had a longer throwout bearing put in so who knows, Plus people that did the job cut the rubber dust sheild off cause it wouldn't work with it on..So We know theres wrong parts in there
 

iamtherealJayy

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The was never a rubber boot, I got everything from LMC I don’t know what happened with the boot could’ve been dude being frustrated I don’t know I didn’t do it. The throw out bearing was the 1697C. Here’s current photos
 

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iamtherealJayy

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On page one has two prior photos, right now the only issue I can come up with is the fork doesn’t want to stay on the stud like it should and as you press the pedal is rotates down a little possibly? I’ll have to watch it as someone else presses the pedal. The spring was originally ran to the motor mount and that had a downward angle on it and the fork was rubbing the bottom of the opening in the bellhousing and changed the angle of the adjustment rod with every press and release of the pedal. I believe the throw out bearing was the correct choice since I went from little to no adjustability left to what’s shown in the photos, the lmc adjustment rod was 1/4”-1/2” longer than the factory rod aswell. I changed the return spring to a hole in the frame by the shock and it helped the angle quite a bit, I don’t have a factory, unmolested truck to check the differences with so I really don’t know what all springs I’m missing. I know the little spring under the dash to fully return the pedal is missing, I ordered it but it didn’t get installed and is no where to be found. I’ve read about some people having small springs holding the adjustment rod and fork together, I’ve only got one long spring from the bottom of the fork to the frame(now)
 

rusted nuts

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On page one has two prior photos, right now the only issue I can come up with is the fork doesn’t want to stay on the stud like it should and as you press the pedal is rotates down a little possibly? I’ll have to watch it as someone else presses the pedal. The spring was originally ran to the motor mount and that had a downward angle on it and the fork was rubbing the bottom of the opening in the bellhousing and changed the angle of the adjustment rod with every press and release of the pedal. I believe the throw out bearing was the correct choice since I went from little to no adjustability left to what’s shown in the photos, the lmc adjustment rod was 1/4”-1/2” longer than the factory rod aswell. I changed the return spring to a hole in the frame by the shock and it helped the angle quite a bit, I don’t have a factory, unmolested truck to check the differences with so I really don’t know what all springs I’m missing. I know the little spring under the dash to fully return the pedal is missing, I ordered it but it didn’t get installed and is no where to be found. I’ve read about some people having small springs holding the adjustment rod and fork together, I’ve only got one long spring from the bottom of the fork to the frame(now)
THe small spring to hold the adj rod togerther is just that it keeps the adj rod from falling out of the clutch/ just go to the hardware store and buy a middle size spring and put in there if the spring isn't long enough then just hook a pice of welding rod to it. as far as the spring under the dash goes I don't know of a small one. There is a big one.
 

DoubleDingo

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Post 6 and 34 show the attachment to keep the fork on the stud. The clip on the fork looks better in post 34, but not great. Did you replace the fork or just bend the clip back to somewhat straight? That clip is what keeps the fork holding tight to the pivot stud. Did you change the pivot stud?
 
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iamtherealJayy

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@DoubleDingo I had the fork replaced with a new one from lmc. The pivot ball was not replaced it was out of stock. Yes it looks better and with the spring attached to the frame it’s even better but it still has a little up and down movement. I drove it to work and back today without any issues other than it engages a little high for my preference and I over revved taking off a couple times.
@SquareRoot what’s that mean:( what happened to @AuroraGirl i noticed she hasn’t chimed into any of my threads recently.
 

DoubleDingo

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Carb'ed Vortec 350; 1972 L48 350
Okay. I'd expect the fork to ride tighter to pivot stud with it being new.
 

iamtherealJayy

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It does hold tight when everything is resting up right. After you press it and it returns is when the issue occurred. It currently works fairly well other than I’d like it to start grabbing close to the floor, and the spring rubs the adjustment rod since I have it ran over to the frame. I don’t know where to hook it up to that’s higher than the fork to keep upwards tension on it.
 

squaredeal91

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I've had this problem or one like it once on a square with homie built 4" body lift. I modified it and got that one working t$%s so I'm hopeful for your endeavor
 

iamtherealJayy

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I’m stock height I need to do a suspension lift or at least new springs, rallies with 31’s filled the fenders. When I picked it up from the shop it had almost a 45° angle on the adjustment rod, dude said it was like it needed the zbar extended about an inch. I feel like that would mess with the geometry and cause the push distance to end up different
 

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