Show me 36" tires on a 4" lift

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fallguy

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I'm really thinking that when I put the 3/4 ton Dana 60 & 44 axles on my truck I do NOT want more than a 4" suspension lift. However I think 36x14.5R16.5 tires would look bad ass.

Anyone have any pics to share what my plan will look like?

I'd rather not fender trim...would I have to add a spacer behind the wheel to make it work?

Thanks guys.
 

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hirschdalechevy

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Sorry , dont have any pic's but if you run skinny wheels like 7" wide you might get away with it , but I think you would still rub with out some minor trimming. I have never tried that combo but a spacer behind the wheel would mahe thing's worse. It also depends on the tire as well not all tire are true to size. I would run a 6" lift and be done with it.
 

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I agree, wheel spacers will compound the problem, get:superhack:, or a bigger lift seems to be the way to go with that size tire
 

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I have a 4" lift with 36's, but it's a dually and won't really help you I don't think. For a regular pickup, you will have to trim. You might have to trim a lot of you have flexy springs.
 

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Why not a 6in lift?
 

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6" is too much and higher than I want. I don't like a lot of fender/tire gap look.
 

HotRodPC

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6" is too much and higher than I want. I don't like a lot of fender/tire gap look.


Then my consider taking outcher springs and put in railroad track instead. That way the truck can't flex and rub your tires and chew them up. :rofl: If your're going to wheel hard, you're going to have to have some space for flex and the springs to function and do their job. But 35's with 6in look good. I'll look in my folder and see if I can find some 35in and 6in truck pics. I've saved some with different configurations for when I decide what I'm going with.
 

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These 2 are 6in 35in Tires. The Dark Blue is Vals truck if not mistaken. I don't have any pics of 4in lift 35in tires. Sorry. Just some 4in with 33's.
 

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Green79Scottsdale

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This is a 4" lift with 35's.

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Green79Scottsdale

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Ummmm.... I know the tires are 12.5's, but I know nothing about the wheels. Not my truck, sorry.
 

HotRodPC

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That doesn't look bad at all, but again, not much room for flexing. Could just trim the lower portions of the fender though and looks like it would be fine. If you're not planning on deep water lower COG is certainly better.
 

Green79Scottsdale

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I think it LOOKS about perfect, as far as the stance goes. But as far as function goes, that would need to be experienced to know if it will work for your individual purposes. The front tires look like they want to take a bite out of the front fenders the first time you put it through it's paces. But I have also seen cases that I was sure they would need to be trimmed, and they ended up clearing by more than one would have thought. If it were mine, I would be doing some range of motion testing and cutting the absolute bare minimum needed.
 

Christian Nelson

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I've always wondered about this, on some trucks, it seems that 6" isn't enough to clear 33" tires, and on others, you can get away with 35's without any lift at all!

I had a half ton truck, that fit 33's with no lift, and then I bought some 36" Buckshot mudders, stuck them on, and it drove fine, but any flex at all while turning, and I would rub, so I put a 3" body lift on it.. Buddy of mine ran a 3/4 ton truck with 3" body lift with 38.5x16x16.5 tires on his! We used to go mudding all the time, and no problems! Now, I think with his 38's he ended up rubbing, and the sheetmetal just bent out of the way in front where the tires hit, but the truck drove just fine with them!

I've also seen trucks that looked to be similar year and model with 6" suspension lift, and barely clearing 35's.

Is 4" truly 4" I guess is what the real question is.. With a body lift, you have no wiggle room, either the blocks are 3" or they aren't. With springs, well, it depends on if your originals were 2 leaf in front, or 3 leaf, etc, etc, how much more will the new springs flex and allow the tires to come up into the wheel well than the originals, etc, etc..

I have to admit, I like 4" lifts best as your geometry and drive shaft angles are close neough to stock you don't have to worry about undue wear on the u joints and so forth.

Seen way too many a dude with 6-8" lifts snapping u joints as soon as they get into the mud, and I'd have to pull 'em out with my old beater truck with cheapo body lift on it.. Never liked how the rust ate away right at the body lift mounts, or the gap between the bumper etc though..
 

HotRodPC

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I think what alot of people don't take into account is wheel offset. They get custom wheels that stick out further then the tires are closer to the biting the lower edges of the fender, where as if they kept the wheel inset a bit more it would stay within the wheel well and might avoid the need to cut and trim fenders. I too like 4in for not having to make mods to all the other geometry in the driveshafts and steering. It's not required but for 6in and above crossover steering should be considered. 4in also keeps you at a lower COG.
 

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