Searching for My Dad's 1979 Chevy Suburban

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TheHoundsman

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Brian
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1979
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Chevy Suburban
Engine Size
350 V8
If I could bother everyone for some additional advice. You may recall I have also been trying to fix my speedometer. I took what I think is the speedo gear out however it does not look like I thought it would. I have some pics attached. I was expecting to see a plastic gear in there and this is what I found. I would imagine it is just a different type but there is clearly no spot for the squared pin to go which is clearly why it works on a drill and not when screwed in place. Looks like the circled piece in the last picture is missing. Does anything know what that is called and can I get it or do I need a whole new speedo gear.
 

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Last edited:

TheHoundsman

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Spent hours today drilling out the Reid racing knuckles with a 7/8 drill bit so I can flip the track bar and finally get this boy back together. I went through one Dewalt 1/2 hammer drill already. This is no easy job.
 

Goldie Driver

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Spent hours today drilling out the Reid racing knuckles with a 7/8 drill bit so I can flip the track bar and finally get this boy back together. I went through one Dewalt 1/2 hammer drill already. This is no easy job.
I cannot visualize why you are having to do that but it sounds like enough of a PITA that Goldie with a 4 inch lift and 33's will stay with the original General's steering design. I heartily salute your efforts, however.
:patriot:
 

TheHoundsman

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350 V8
I cannot visualize why you are having to do that but it sounds like enough of a PITA that Goldie with a 4 inch lift and 33's will stay with the original General's steering design. I heartily salute your efforts, however.
:patriot:
You can pick whether you want to put the track bar on top or under the knuckle and I had read that if it is on top it is more stable and gives you more ground clearance so that’s what I pick. When I went to put the track bar on, because I had to install top down for whatever reason with my Burb there was not enough room between the knuckle and the springs to install it. I was going to just buy and install a high steer kit and be done with it but they Offroad Design told me that instead they sell a correction kit for $50.00. A big part of me just wishes I ordered the high steer kit. Drilling these out is not easy.
 

edgephoto

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That speedo gear is not what I am used to seeing but I never played with trucks much in the old days, only cars. A little searching and it appears that is the driven gear and the drive gear is plastic. My truck has an NP208 transfer case and uses the little plastic gear. Turns out the NP203 and NP205 take the style like you have. Stick the cable in the end and see if it fits tight or not. You should be able to see inside the end of the gear and can see if it is rounded out or not.

The steering shaft looks great. I have been on the fence about installing one on my truck. I am pretty sure I am going to spring for it after seeing yours. One thing comes to mind is making sure those Allen head bolts and jam nuts don't come loose. I would use a drop of Blue Loctite on them just as a precaution. Use the Blue as it is removable with hand tools. The Red is permanent and take heat to release. I have seen bolts twist off or pulling out threads trying to force Red Loctite loose.
 

TheHoundsman

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That speedo gear is not what I am used to seeing but I never played with trucks much in the old days, only cars. A little searching and it appears that is the driven gear and the drive gear is plastic. My truck has an NP208 transfer case and uses the little plastic gear. Turns out the NP203 and NP205 take the style like you have. Stick the cable in the end and see if it fits tight or not. You should be able to see inside the end of the gear and can see if it is rounded out or not.

The steering shaft looks great. I have been on the fence about installing one on my truck. I am pretty sure I am going to spring for it after seeing yours. One thing comes to mind is making sure those Allen head bolts and jam nuts don't come loose. I would use a drop of Blue Loctite on them just as a precaution. Use the Blue as it is removable with hand tools. The Red is permanent and take heat to release. I have seen bolts twist off or pulling out threads trying to force Red Loctite loose.
Will do. The steering shaft was relatively easy once I had the correct u joint for my steering column. Blue Loctite is a must to be sure. I ordered a replacement Speedo Gear last night as I was also at a loss. Had to get a used one but it has the end on it which mines seems to be missing. We will see if it works when it arrives.
 

TheHoundsman

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@TheHoundsman where did you locate your replacement gear?
eBay, there were a few on there, it might not be what I need (it says it is), but I could not figure anything else out. I got a 20-tooth because when I counted what I had in my Burb, it was 20. I am sure the ratio will still be off, but I plan on putting a GPS sending unit in at some point.

71-90 GM NP205 Speedometer Driven Gear 18 Tooth with Collar
 

TheHoundsman

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Update to the continued cross-over steering saga, lol. I finished drilling out the knuckles, inserting the corrective bushings, and installing the track bar. With that done, I installed the cross-over bar and put the rest of the Burb back together. I had to spend a reasonable amount of time bleeding the lines, but once that was done, it got nice and quiet, and fingers crossed, it drives pretty darn straight with only a correction to the steering wheel needed. Of course, I need to get an alignment done, but that was a given. I will keep checking things to ensure they stay tight, but so far, so good. I have one question I am afraid to ask, but I guess I should. The upper steering bar/arm had to be installed on the driver's side under (bolt-on top) and passenger side over (bolt-on bottom). Both are tight, with the castle nut and cotter pin fully installed. I am just not sure if that setup is safe. Pics attached. I’ll get better ones on the driver's side as soon as possible.
 

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TheHoundsman

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350 V8
Good morning all,



Unfortunately, I am here again looking for some additional advice. I had mentioned about a week ago that I had the Burb back together and would take it for a test drive to make sure the crossover steering worked as I hoped it would. After a scary start-up (making an awful noise), I learned that the air was bleeding out of the steering system. I got it to bleed properly and hit the road. The good news is that the crossover, new steering box, and steering shaft work perfectly.

WITH THAT SAID, on the first short around-the-neighborhood trip, I stalled twice (which was weird, but I thought maybe I was just sloppy with the clutch). Looking back on it, the odd part is that it didn’t restart immediately, but I didn’t think much more of it. I dropped my wife off and told her I would take the old boy out on the highway and test the steering at a higher speed. Not to give too much detail, but when I was making my way to the highway, actually on the on ramp, this boy let out an “Uncle Buck Style” backfire. It sounded like a gunshot. I thought it was weird as it had never done that before, but at this point, I was on the highway and had it up to about 50 to 55 mph, and I am happy to say the steering appeared to be rock solid. However, I thought better of continuing on the highway and pulled off onto the access road. It drove for another 1/4 mile and then cut off. Stalled and coasted to a stop, and that was that.

I tried to start it again, but “No Go” would not start. The starter sounded right, no leaking from anything, but it would not start. Full transparency, this is where I am lost on this stuff. I have figured out how to fix things on this Burb, but candidly, I cannot diagnose these issues. I called AAA and had it towed to the shop. I wasn’t sure what happened or what needed to be done. When I talked to him, he said not to panic; it has a mechanical fuel pump and might just need a new one. As you can imagine, this is good and frustrating news all at once. Good because it was not me blowing up the engine, but bad because I am sure I can figure out how to replace the fuel pump, and the part is relatively cheap.

That brings me to where we are currently. After chasing the guy for a week to get an update on the truck, they finally called me yesterday and said they could not recreate the problem! He said that the truck starts and runs normally. I plan to pick it up, drive it home, and replace the fuel pump anyway, simply because I would like to try to figure it out, and it doesn’t seem too hard, it is not a very expensive part, and who knows how old it is.

My larger question for the group is, can anyone on here with way more knowledge and experience think of what the issue might be other than the fuel pump?

As always, any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

squaredeal91

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Possibly a bad ignition coil or ignition module in distributor? Or Possibly the hot wire going to hei distributor could be wiggly and causing this? Those are my initial thoughts when reading this.
 

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